Sounds like a great idea anyway. Who makes a water relief like this at a low psi

a pair of strainers would sure help that problem...

Recently I switched out my 13 plate bellhousing coolers to 8 plate to help build oil temp.
The evaporation on MY motors was not fast enough below 212* .

It still takes 5 minutes + around 4500rpm to get the oil temp above 212* in Lake Michigan but at least I can get there now.

Ultimately, I`ve learned that the water temp is a large factor in condensation. I can run around warmer Lake Erie or ROTO at 180* oil temps all day without any condensation.
Unfortunately building water temp in my motors is next to impossible.

Cold water and 180* oil temps on my set up equals:

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s7/...62154478-3.jpg

Teague Marine has adjustable units... I use them on my superchillers [ATTACH=CONFIG]544650[/ATTACH] not sure if you can blow these up on your computer.. but they are the brass units that are screwed into the front side dump of the chillers... these work awesome and I'm sure they would help you if overall system pressure is a concern for you... 15-16psi wouldn't bother me, IMO

however... if you want to run them, take a close look at the STBD engine, you'll see the unit in the chiller right beside the idler pulley to the left of the blower belt...

Yes I see them. I would have to get 4 of them. One on each manifold before the riser. My water pressure was 14-17 lbs @ 3200 rpms with a clogged cooler. I will test it this weekend. As for the strainers..This is the first time in 7 years i'm having an issue. If my water pressure or oil temps go wacky I will know just where to look. My oils coolers have removable end caps for clean out. I like these better than the newer style. As for the oil Amsoil Full Synthetic 20-50 Z-Rod. Changed every 20-25 hours.
Thanks for the post

I agree BUT how long do you want that condensation to stay inside. It will begin to rust parts like valve springs, push rods, etc. Look at the post in this thread on page 11 from ICDEDPPL.

FYI: I like oil temps between 200-240.

Again, I'm, just stating info against the common misconception that oil has to be 212F or over to remove water.

That is all.

Hard to type vs speak and convey the message.

How are your valve cover vents routed? Can you get them into vacuum? The lower pressure will help free the water from the oil and generate a flow path to keep the vapor from re-condensing.

Couldn't find the data I wanted, all my tech stuff starts with saturated steam.

seeing how we are shifting a bit here, I have been experimenting with breather setups on my procharger setup, found what works well for me, run 5/8 hoses out of each valve cover to individual puke tanks, vented to procharger inlet bell. What I noticed was all the water being caught in the tanks, and no oil...just info..

So what you're seeing there is the vapor is swept from the valve covers at some velocity through the hoses and the speed keeps the water in vapor phase. Then the water suddenly slows as it reaches the puke tank, vapor condenses into droplets and falls out.

Add a baffle in there and you'll see even more fall out.

I work in the natural gas industry, this stuff is my bread and butter. :)