People have done this with the rear water ports on some aftermarket intakes...but with a psi regulator. All water goes thru the exhaust until rpm and speed go up, where now the regulators open up.

Now that is interesting...I would like to know more about this..regulators hose size?? and how to set it up. This would cure my problem
thanks

So why not just make the water outlet holes in the tails bigger?? Will lower water pressure. Increase flow through your cooler AND still keeps the risers cool....

Good question, this is what happened..Before I sent both sets of my short risers back to Eddie Marine to have the lengthened I found a new set of long risers on ebay. This is how i new the water holes seemed small. I installed the set from Ebay on one engine and had EM extend one set of my short risers. After i installed them i noticed the set from ebay had larger water holes and more water was flowing out the that engine at idle than the other BUT on the set with the larger holes pipes from ebay they were running warmer than the ones that EM just lengthened.. So i removed them, sold them on Ebay LOL and sent my other set back to EM to have them lengthened. Did that make sense? I guess the smaller holes in the exhaust pipe makes the water flow and fill the complete pipe stopping hot spots while the larger holes in the pipe allows the water to exit too fast leaving some areas between the hot exhaust inner pipe and outer pipe dry or with less water to cool. This scenario also happens when i installed my water dumps, My water dumps consist of a 1/2" mpt x 3/8 hose barb fitting. 1 on each tee fitting where the little black water hose is from the manifold to the riser goes. Dumping water before the risers is just like having larger holes at the end of the exhaust pipe. Let me clarify here. The SS risers were not super hot where you couldn't touch them. Under the elbow bend and on top of the bend a few inches down they were hot but not scorching. This is just at idle, I'm sure once moving they cooled off. That pump pumps 38 GPM @ 3000 RPM'S. How hot is ok...What could happen if they get hot, they are Stainless. As for the aluminum manifolds. No issues they run cool

Here is the data sheet of the oil i'm using. The flash point is 457 deg F and the fire point is 468 deg F so why would 240 be so bad..

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2883.pdf

and this is interesting also

http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-chang.../#.Vc9T1JeJt80

http://teaguecustommarine.com//media...oij_piping.pdf

If it's good enough for Teague it's good enough for me......

Thanks look at this [ATTACH=CONFIG]544210[/ATTACH]

Line 18 out of engine to filter

Guess Merc and Teague disagree.

I think I just found my problem. Looking at these oil flow diagrams I just realized after 7 years of owning this boat that my oil flow is going in the same direction as my water flow which is WRONG. The oil flow should be in the opposite direction of the water flow to enable it to remove heat efficiently. I have to reverse the 2 oil lines on my cooler, then maybe i'll get 20 or more degrees less in temps.
If you look at the diagram above oil line #6 out of the filter is going to the outlet of the cooler. On my engine it is going to the one at the beginning of the cooler where the water enters. WOW what a find.
amazing I had no issues all these years....
What do you think??

I think that's possible.

Co-current flow is not the optimal path for heat exchange but it may have been sufficient in years past. Now that the cooler has some fouling on it the efficiency drops and you need better exchange.