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Help! Engine wont build rpm

Old 08-18-2015 | 07:21 PM
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- Tach should be reading correctly because MPH is way down also.

- Going to pick up my timing light from a friend that borrowed it. Will check that asap.

- Compression test will be done at same time I check ignition timing.

- Boat appears to have original fuel hose from tank to fuel pump, boat is a 1981, time to change that too just as a precaution.
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Old 08-19-2015 | 08:27 PM
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When you replaced dist' cap and rotor did you replace the ignition module? Can't these go bad and be dropping rpm as it gets worse or do the modules go from good to junk in a single step?
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Old 08-23-2015 | 08:02 PM
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Update: I found out this past week that you can test the ignition module using a volt meter (I didn't know you can do this), and guess what... it didn't pass the test, so it seems to be bad. I ordered one Friday and it should be here by Tuesday.
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Old 09-14-2015 | 06:25 PM
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Ok, I need Timing Specs for this engine if any one knows them...My engine has old vette valve covers on it, so I have no sticker with spark plug gap, timing, max engine rpm, etc..., its a Quicksilver longblock (merc) part # 87971R5, basically a stock 1981 350/260 with a Mallory Marine Magnetic Electronic Distributor # YLM624AV. Anyone have the correct timing specs for this thing?
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Old 09-14-2015 | 07:08 PM
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Set it to 34* total
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Old 09-14-2015 | 07:24 PM
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I just had a similar issue on a friend's boat with a vac sec Holley. Ended up the rear bowl wasn't filling due to a stuck float. I rebuilt the carb and now it runs better than it ever did.
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Old 09-14-2015 | 07:45 PM
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What about initial static timing? I've seen people say it should be 8*, some say 10*... just want to do this right.

Also I'm having difficulty on finding out if its possible to set the dwell angle on my Mallory Marine YLM Series Magnetic trigger distributor, model YLM624AV. When I check the dwell its coming up as 22*, when everyone tells me it should be 30*. I know how to set it on older points distributors, but with this magnetic trigger setup I have no idea if you can even adjust it.
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Old 09-14-2015 | 07:45 PM
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What about initial static timing? I've seen people say it should be 8*, some say 10*... just want to do this right.

Also I'm having difficulty on finding out if its possible to set the dwell angle on my Mallory Marine YLM Series Magnetic trigger distributor, model YLM624AV. When I check the dwell its coming up as 22*, when everyone tells me it should be 30*. I know how to set it on older points distributors, but with this magnetic trigger setup I have no idea if you can even adjust it.
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Old 09-14-2015 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonesyfxr
I just had a similar issue on a friend's boat with a vac sec Holley. Ended up the rear bowl wasn't filling due to a stuck float. I rebuilt the carb and now it runs better than it ever did.
Already rebuilt the carb, no stuck float, had a little dirt in the float bowls but no stuck float. But thanks for the idea. I basically went through the entire fuel system first, new filters, new fuel line, added fuel pressure gauge (pressure stays at about 8-8.5 psi). New dist. cap and new rotor, new plugs, new module in dist. Need to set timing, check advance... but this dwell thing has me all messed up as I think you can't adjust it. should it be only 22* with the magnetic breakerless trigger? I cannot find an answer.
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Old 09-14-2015 | 07:49 PM
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Your initial timing really doesn't matter, without typing 3 pages of timing theory etc (I'll leave that to mild thunder he's better at it than me) rev the engine in neutral until the timing doesn't climb any higher, set it at 34* at that rpm.
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