Torque spec for prop nut on Mercury #6 drives ?
#2
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Ft. Worth TX
100 ft lbs
and merc wants a lot of anti corrosion grease on the propshaft splines. Merc sells it.
Its a 92- ?????? part number or use a good one from whomever.
and merc wants a lot of anti corrosion grease on the propshaft splines. Merc sells it.
Its a 92- ?????? part number or use a good one from whomever.
Last edited by BUP; 09-19-2015 at 12:44 PM.
#3
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 88
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From: Georgian Bay, ontario
Along the same line here BUP can you give me the torque specs for the 4 bolts on top of a #6 holding the bracket for the tie bar and also the specs for the 6 bolts holding the drive to the housing as I am going to pull it tomorrow to grease the u joint. Thanks very much.
Mark
Mark
Last edited by hardcore; 09-19-2015 at 07:22 PM.
#4
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Ft. Worth TX
Just to make sure we are on the same page here as you are referring to the Steering Tie Bar plate but you have bolts holding the plate on ? Its not nuts with lock washers ? Merc spec for that was 75 ft lbs for 4 nuts with 4 lock washers.
The drive to the housing 6 nylon lock nuts is 100 ft lbs. And the 2 lower smaller nylon lock nuts torqued to 50 ft lbs. DO NOT FORGET ABOUT THOSE EITHER. Total of 8 nuts here. But you are saying bolts again ??? Merc wants a bit of never seez on the threads before reinstalling nuts.
do not forget to grease the splines and Merc wants Optimal White T grease used here and they claim important not to use Merc 2-4- C grease either. The White grease It is another 92-?????? part number. I would have to look those part numbers up.
there is 2 O-rings in housing a large one to seal and one below that, a small O-ring for the oil passage valve. Wise to go with new here but however you decide - lube with them with gear oil before installing drive.
Next as for this I always followed Merc with their service protocol as what they recommended for many reasons. Anyways will add on top of they Merc wanted the U joints greased with Optimal Longtime PD2 Extreme pressure Grease and again another 92 - ?????? part number.
The drive to the housing 6 nylon lock nuts is 100 ft lbs. And the 2 lower smaller nylon lock nuts torqued to 50 ft lbs. DO NOT FORGET ABOUT THOSE EITHER. Total of 8 nuts here. But you are saying bolts again ??? Merc wants a bit of never seez on the threads before reinstalling nuts.
do not forget to grease the splines and Merc wants Optimal White T grease used here and they claim important not to use Merc 2-4- C grease either. The White grease It is another 92-?????? part number. I would have to look those part numbers up.
there is 2 O-rings in housing a large one to seal and one below that, a small O-ring for the oil passage valve. Wise to go with new here but however you decide - lube with them with gear oil before installing drive.
Next as for this I always followed Merc with their service protocol as what they recommended for many reasons. Anyways will add on top of they Merc wanted the U joints greased with Optimal Longtime PD2 Extreme pressure Grease and again another 92 - ?????? part number.
Last edited by BUP; 09-20-2015 at 12:08 PM.
#5
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 88
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From: Georgian Bay, ontario
Thanks very much BUP ! It is very much appreciated that you take the time to answer all these questions. Sorry about the bolt -nut confusion I know better than to call a nut a bolt but I was not thinking, used to correct my crews all the time as well when they did that.
Take care,
Mark
Take care,
Mark
#8
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 88
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From: Georgian Bay, ontario
One more question BUP, I am also changing the filters in the drives. What is the torque for the nose cone and are the threads normal rotation and not reverse thread . Guess that is two questions. I have ordered manuals for the drives and the 700's so hopefully will not have to bother you any more.
Thanks very much.
Mark
Thanks very much.
Mark
#9
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 9,594
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From: Ft. Worth TX
Well heck you can start throwing out some questions about the 700 to, just kidding somewhat.
there is some special tools for this job do not know if you have them.
there is a nose cone socket and socket pin and will need a 5/8 deep socket for the inner nut, then a proper size slide hammer you can buy or have from whomever or even Merc sells this as well also you will need the torpedo cover puller or how ever you are removing this witout messing the parts up..
Also most likely you have to heat the nose cone cap / cover to get it off because of possible Loctite and you do not want to gul the threads when removing it. I use to use a high heat hair dryer to loosen up the Loctite.
the inner cover nut with washer is 80 ft lbs the nose cone cap / cover the very front I do not recall a torque spec on that as I do not think one was a listed spec. I do not have any info in front of me to double check as I am completely going off memory here.
The nose cone cap / cover is the part were you need to use nose cone socket and socket pin to remove and to install.
U also will have a couple of O rings to as it would be wise to change to new. Merc calls for special 101 on them and not to install dry.. Hope this helps - have to go to work now and get something done for the day before I fall way behind again.
there is some special tools for this job do not know if you have them.
there is a nose cone socket and socket pin and will need a 5/8 deep socket for the inner nut, then a proper size slide hammer you can buy or have from whomever or even Merc sells this as well also you will need the torpedo cover puller or how ever you are removing this witout messing the parts up..
Also most likely you have to heat the nose cone cap / cover to get it off because of possible Loctite and you do not want to gul the threads when removing it. I use to use a high heat hair dryer to loosen up the Loctite.
the inner cover nut with washer is 80 ft lbs the nose cone cap / cover the very front I do not recall a torque spec on that as I do not think one was a listed spec. I do not have any info in front of me to double check as I am completely going off memory here.
The nose cone cap / cover is the part were you need to use nose cone socket and socket pin to remove and to install.
U also will have a couple of O rings to as it would be wise to change to new. Merc calls for special 101 on them and not to install dry.. Hope this helps - have to go to work now and get something done for the day before I fall way behind again.
Last edited by BUP; 09-22-2015 at 12:53 PM.
#10
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 88
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From: Georgian Bay, ontario
Awsome info BUP. i have the nose cone tool and will try this tomorrow. Pulled the drives today to grease u joints and splines, man I wish my hands were a lot smaller as putting that shaft back in took some time and effort. There is probably a special tool for that as well but I managed with a small block of wood as a shim and a long screwdriver to to lift the front to line it up.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.



