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Why is the Gen 7 496 such a bad platform to build

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Old 01-28-2016 | 09:06 PM
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I run a modified intake also but it has been completely dissected and given the full Monty including the four bolt flange. I ran a 90mm then added a 2 inch spacer which picked up power on the dyno. Then went to a 102mm and flared the spacer to match and picked up more power.
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Old 01-28-2016 | 09:16 PM
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Keith, you may be interested in this. By modifying/lengthening the fuel rail transfer tube between the rails and adding a bend, filling the original injector bosses, 're-machining the bosses to point the injectors upstream created an additional 8hp.
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Old 01-29-2016 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BUP
Post 173 who made your covers - very nice and IMO the more it is vented the better.
Not sure who they are, I know F&M make them but these are not theirs. Some guy had them listed on PBSS in a red metallic and said he had them for years, so good chance it was a small West Coast shop that was working with a boat company long gone ;(
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Old 01-29-2016 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Vortec Bandit
I run a modified intake also but it has been completely dissected and given the full Monty including the four bolt flange. I ran a 90mm then added a 2 inch spacer which picked up power on the dyno. Then went to a 102mm and flared the spacer to match and picked up more power.
I have Raylar intakes. Would it work?
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Old 01-30-2016 | 05:45 AM
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My 496 before I swapped in a 525EFI:

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Old 02-02-2016 | 01:37 AM
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Yeah of course it'll work with our manifolds!

Cut the front 78mm snout off and bolt on a 102. We've done lots of 90 / 102 conversions with the Cool Gap. Heck, we even do it with the modified stock manifolds now:


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Old 02-10-2016 | 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Vortec Bandit
Keith, you may be interested in this. By modifying/lengthening the fuel rail transfer tube between the rails and adding a bend, filling the original injector bosses, 're-machining the bosses to point the injectors upstream created an additional 8hp.
Any dyno sheet available?
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Old 03-14-2016 | 08:35 AM
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Spring is around the corner and I am thinking about getting the final projects done on my motors before dropping them back in. I want to upgrade the stock oil coolers but don't think I want to do anything with the stock lines. My thinking is to go to a 3" cooler with a thermostat in the stock location with some new brackets. This is the cooler I am looking at: 3" cooler from CP Performance. The stock 496 ties the air drain system into this but my Dana exhaust has a manual valve so I can do away with the funky T fitting at the end of the cooler for the water hoses. Has anybody had any experience with doing a setup like this and if so how did it work for keeping oil temperatures under control?
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Old 03-14-2016 | 02:46 PM
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Bore... or lack there of..
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Old 03-14-2016 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by donzi matt
Spring is around the corner and I am thinking about getting the final projects done on my motors before dropping them back in. I want to upgrade the stock oil coolers but don't think I want to do anything with the stock lines. My thinking is to go to a 3" cooler with a thermostat in the stock location with some new brackets. This is the cooler I am looking at: 3" cooler from CP Performance. The stock 496 ties the air drain system into this but my Dana exhaust has a manual valve so I can do away with the funky T fitting at the end of the cooler for the water hoses. Has anybody had any experience with doing a setup like this and if so how did it work for keeping oil temperatures under control?
Your on the right track. Anything is an upgrade over the stock unit. That size should do a fine job for your needs. If I remember your setup to monitor oil temp.
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