Why is the Gen 7 496 such a bad platform to build
#181
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 171
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From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
I run a modified intake also but it has been completely dissected and given the full Monty including the four bolt flange. I ran a 90mm then added a 2 inch spacer which picked up power on the dyno. Then went to a 102mm and flared the spacer to match and picked up more power.
#182
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 171
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From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Keith, you may be interested in this. By modifying/lengthening the fuel rail transfer tube between the rails and adding a bend, filling the original injector bosses, 're-machining the bosses to point the injectors upstream created an additional 8hp.
#183
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 248
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From: Crystal Lake, IL
Not sure who they are, I know F&M make them but these are not theirs. Some guy had them listed on PBSS in a red metallic and said he had them for years, so good chance it was a small West Coast shop that was working with a boat company long gone ;(
#184
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,748
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From: Delray Beach, FL
I run a modified intake also but it has been completely dissected and given the full Monty including the four bolt flange. I ran a 90mm then added a 2 inch spacer which picked up power on the dyno. Then went to a 102mm and flared the spacer to match and picked up more power.
#186
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,777
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From: San Diego, California
Yeah of course it'll work with our manifolds!
Cut the front 78mm snout off and bolt on a 102. We've done lots of 90 / 102 conversions with the Cool Gap. Heck, we even do it with the modified stock manifolds now:

Cut the front 78mm snout off and bolt on a 102. We've done lots of 90 / 102 conversions with the Cool Gap. Heck, we even do it with the modified stock manifolds now:

#187
Any dyno sheet available?
#188
Spring is around the corner and I am thinking about getting the final projects done on my motors before dropping them back in. I want to upgrade the stock oil coolers but don't think I want to do anything with the stock lines. My thinking is to go to a 3" cooler with a thermostat in the stock location with some new brackets. This is the cooler I am looking at: 3" cooler from CP Performance. The stock 496 ties the air drain system into this but my Dana exhaust has a manual valve so I can do away with the funky T fitting at the end of the cooler for the water hoses. Has anybody had any experience with doing a setup like this and if so how did it work for keeping oil temperatures under control?
#190
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,313
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From: Tygart Lake, WV
Spring is around the corner and I am thinking about getting the final projects done on my motors before dropping them back in. I want to upgrade the stock oil coolers but don't think I want to do anything with the stock lines. My thinking is to go to a 3" cooler with a thermostat in the stock location with some new brackets. This is the cooler I am looking at: 3" cooler from CP Performance. The stock 496 ties the air drain system into this but my Dana exhaust has a manual valve so I can do away with the funky T fitting at the end of the cooler for the water hoses. Has anybody had any experience with doing a setup like this and if so how did it work for keeping oil temperatures under control?




