Many noticed.:ernaehrung004:

The rigging was done for quite a bit of money by a member of the board. The boat was re- rigged by someone who actually knew what they were doing in Ohio. 5/8 fuel line, bypass regulator. Eikert(sp?) raw water pump. Crossover with t stat. Most of the rigging is overkill for my engines. Previous engines were tall deck 572 aluminium Donavan's with injected 14-71s

The only oil left is in the filters. Worth sending it out you figure? Degraded oil would be a sign of heat?

If I get a bad cam I will be pissed and call Bob. If anything else goes wrong like my engines filling with water or my lifter seizing in bore I will be pissed and call my engine builder. I also stopped the whole process for 3 weeks and lost the rest of the season trying to decide if I wanted to go with blowers since I had to rebuild anyways. Then I figured since I can hit 90 at 5400 and 650hp in a straight bottom boat why screw with blowers, so I told the builder to get the correct pistons for a non blower app.

x 1000!

Even though I don't trust many engine rebuilders, I feel bad for them. Can't tell you (yes I can, lol) how many times an engine (shortblock, longblock, complete) I've gone to check out where owner is po'd at the facility, all to discover the rigging (or tuning) killed it....again. Suks.

Amazes me on OSO how the guys that don't have a clue or do sub-par work get reach arounds from many of the OSO members here. Then you have a genuine guy like Bob who go above and beyond to put out a great product and they get shot down by OSO members.

Reach around is an understatement. One of the reasons I reacted like I did. Well, there goes this thread.

I was trying to keep it PG.

However, if someone does real good work for you, don't you give them a nice reacharound ? LOL.

WOW ! You had some hardware !

Where is your oil temp measured, pre cooler or post cooler? I don't see 240 degree oil temp pre cooler causing this. I see it possibly being a symptom of the meltdown happening. What RPM were you at when this burned down, cruise or WOT? From the pictures the skirt clearance looks like it could have been tight, but if it was running lean and detonating you could have the same problem.

MT can you post a pic of the plate with the holes drilled in it on your pickups? I'd like to see it as I think I'll do the same. Thanks

It was about 5200. Afr at that rpm was probably 12's. I have to go by memory cause its tough to write legibly at those speeds. I honestly don't know if that's before or after the cooler. I'm using the threaded fittings on the remote oil filter/ thermostat housings. I'd have to trace the lines to determine before or after the coolers. Is there a standard it should have been set up for?

These engines were spec'd for a 357 formula with kaama's and a wet exhaust. They are now in a different boat. * note going from tall deck to short requires new tailpipes. Who woulda thought 4/10ths would make such a difference?

I'll try to get some close ups next weekend of them. This is all i have for now, which isnt very helpful

I made it work in my Donzi with an oversize ring and you could never tell. But then again I'm not a professional rigger I'm just a grease monkey and knuckle buster.

They were off pretty far. I've got pics somewhere. No way it was going together without cutting/ welding.

Thanks. Even after cleaning the strainers the intake had a baseball sized wad of seaweed up inside it. I have the exact same pic you do. If you blow it up you can see the intake. No screen at all and it was plugged.

On the remote filter is most likely before the cooler. (The way most stuff is rigged) You can get a bunch of discussions about where and why you should check oil temp before/after cooler. Mine was always before, and ran 230 all day long for 5 years, with no issues.

Crap, I missed your reply. Yes the filter housing is pre cooler, so 240 wouldn't have me worked up as to the cause of the failure. I am really curious what your skirt clearance is.

Here's the thing. How hot does it have to get to discolor a header? One header was discolored

With no water temp in the block, but no water flow to the exhaust, the header can turn blue in no time. Lack of water to the headers, will blue them quickly.

Only thing I could see doing that is a lack of water flow, but I would expect to see a rise in water temperature and you said it held steadily.

Hold the phone!

Is that Jody's old 38 Larry Smith from California you bought?

Another thing that pisses me off water. Water temp never varied. Neither did water pressure. The oil pressure was down about 20psi after the incident while heading back to the marina

Yeah, that's it. Had it a few years now. Decent name so I never changed it

I officially don't like you. lol.

I have always wondered where that boat went to, as I was in love with it years back. Why aren't we talking about a pair of 1000's for this thing :coolcowboy:

It has t stats. Water temp never budges off 140-150

I wish. That's why I was thinking blowers, but this was an unexpected 10k expense. You know how hard it is to find props for an SSM V with only 650 hp? Because of the boat I can get on plane and pull the 17x 30s up to 4400. I lose about 10mph at top end with them but I've got a 65mph cruise at 3500. I was able to hit 90 with the 17x26s

I think Rbesola here was selling some 17x26 big shaft 4 blades, not sure if he sold them or not.

Yes. You're the one who clued me in about them. I made arrangements with him so I could buy/test with them just before the engine problems. The props that I was running were loaners and not for sale. I've got to see where I'm at with the new engines now prop wise

I can't afford to replace parts that aren't broken so I'm going to reuse the 305 heads and current intake. We're going to bump the comp about .5, run a few hundred rpm higher and go more aggressive with the cam to take advantage of the exhaust I have now. I'll try some 4500s with an adapter to my intake also

did you ever mention how much water pressure you have?

Water press is generally never below 20 when on plane. Measurement taken from intake below t stat housing

240* oil temp is not too hot and should not be an issue.

Really should run the oil filter after the cooler. Coolers often have little beads of solder rolling around in them, next stop is the mains.

If you are talking about where to measure temp then that is another discussion

I'll verify how the filters are plumbed in relation to the cooler tomorrow. If the temp sender is after the cooler and read 240 how hot would the oil likely have been before the cooler?

That depends on the size of the cooler and the water temp, my multipass Teague offshore cooler supposedly can make a 50* drop in temp.

Oil is cooled through 1 side of a merc bellhousing cooler

Found a picture on the phone. Wouldn't you need to know how the fluid flows in side of the filter housing to determine if the sender's are before or after cooling? And how does that flow change as the t-stat opens and closes?