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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4382208)
I wonder if that had any influence on the old 427T tall deck truck engines design concept. Using a short stroke , long rod combination. I know they had the 4 piston ring deal, but wonder if they knew those engines were going to need to last in heavy duty commercial trucks, with short gears, and not wear things out
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Originally Posted by horsepower1
(Post 4382212)
Certainly. You also notice they had very small heads. Not much demand on an induction system with that setup even though they spend most of their life at a much higher rpm than an automotive engine.
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4382208)
I wonder if that had any influence on the old 427T tall deck truck engines design concept. Using a short stroke , long rod combination. I know they had the 4 piston ring deal, but wonder if they knew those engines were going to need to last in heavy duty commercial trucks, with short gears, and not wear things out
Had the pieces at my shop for one and used the blow through carb and intercooler on one of my small blocks it was cool. |
call me when you're ready Danny I will hook you up with my 4340 I Beams with either ARP 2000 or L-19 7/16 bolts
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Originally Posted by adk61
(Post 4382256)
call me when you're ready Danny I will hook you up with my 4340 I Beams with either ARP 2000 or L-19 7/16 bolts
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manufactured for me Mike... same as Howards and a few others are doing... they're great rods and reasonably priced... I'm running them in my own engines as well as several other builds out in service...
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i d[d not know that.can you say who is making them?
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I will say this... they are great quality, priced right and the finish machining is done here in Toronto... as I said earlier, we've been using these for many years... seeing that I'm not the only guy doing this, I respectfully decline to name drop the front end supplier...
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AK Racing 4340 H Beam Con Rod
1 Attachment(s)
My 4340 H beam connecting rod
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can you post a pic showing the cap&bolts?
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The Eagle with the 2000 bolt $475 is a good price and nice upgrade. Too many parts to buy to go spending money on overkill.
Thank for all the feedback! |
Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4382370)
The Eagle with the 2000 bolt $475 is a good price and nice upgrade. Too many parts to buy to go spending money on overkill.
Thank for all the feedback! |
So. no one has gotten e-mails from this place ? Any businesses ?
http://xytosan.en.made-in-china.com/...catalog-1.html Direct link for their Chevrolet ones: http://xytosan.en.made-in-china.com/...L-MODELS-.html Is this one of the places all these performance stores seem to get their own named rods, cranks, and etc ? And still sell them seemingly cheap ? |
me think miss jenny is a man!
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4382438)
me think miss jenny is a man!
They spell 'miss jenny' different in other rod pages. LOL. |
I liked the fact that Tom is a family company in the USA and he seems to be very knowledgeable so I bought the Molnar rods.
Some comparisons Eagle vs. Molnar To the untrained eye the Eagle stuff just seems more "heavy duty" but so does the 8740 vs. the 2000 and we know thats not true. 8740 on right :confused: http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s5/...48929322-3.jpg More 'material' missing in the middle from the Eagle but it is 3/8" wider http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s6/...57573345-3.jpg http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s4/...25269829-3.jpg http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s4/...30458836-3.jpg http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s7/...64255630-3.jpg http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s3/...16971834-3.jpg http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s3/...40050622-3.jpg |
Awesome choice! Congrats and thanks for sharing!
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Dan, if you don't mind me asking.... what is the price of those rods? And as far as eagle.. I would never use their products on any motor I put together,
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$558/set They`re out of Michigan.
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That 32 ounces of rotating weight is nice to take out of the equation.
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changing rod brand will result in a different rotating assembly weight,that means rebalance is required.
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No big deal. A lighter rod will require weight being removed from the counterweights. Much cheaper than adding Mallory metal to add weight.
i wouldn't let that simple procedure steer me away from using a better rod |
I like the finish on the Molnar, esp around the wrist pin area
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Originally Posted by vintage chromoly
(Post 4385389)
No big deal. A lighter rod will require weight being removed from the counterweights. Much cheaper than adding Mallory metal to add weight.
i wouldn't let that simple procedure steer me away from using a better rod |
Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4385498)
correct,just bringing it to dan,s attention.as far as the molnar rod being better than the eagle do you have definative proof of that?i have not used a molnar rod so i can,t say.
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I was thinking about lightweight wrist pins to shed more weight of the rotating assembly. Whats are the thoughts on that?
Lightweight = not as strong? Titanium is pretty strong http://www.tricktitanium.com/wristpins/ |
the molnar rod pictures look good,so do the eagles,imo going by looks might not be the correct way to pick things out.some of the best looking women can be the wrong choice,we all know that,lol.i,m not saying the molnar rod is better or worse than the eagle and imo either one will work at 900 hp and 6500 rpm.i do know that the eagle with the correct bolt has been installed in thousands of engines and i don,t hear about a lot of them failing.
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I actually upgraded my pins to a thicker wall because of the application. .180 as apposed to .150.
They can be had in.120 wall for a drag race application as well. I did this on recommendation from the piston rep at CP. |
i would never give up strength to save weight,espically in a wrist pin.i think once you see the cost on a set of titanium pins you will forget about them.the standard pin thickness with a j&e blower piston is .180 wall.i use a .210 wall pin at 1200 hp.in dan,s build i would go with a .200 wall pin in case he decides to add power later.jmo.
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Originally Posted by vintage chromoly
(Post 4385547)
I actually upgraded my pins to a thicker wall because of the application. .180 as apposed to .150.
They can be had in.120 wall for a drag race application as well. I did this on recommendation from the piston rep at CP. |
Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4385552)
what is your power goal?
Pretty mild stuff. The pistons I took out were a bit heavier and the thicker pins helped put me back really close so minimal balancing was required |
back in my drag racing days i trashed a expensive engine due to a pin that was to small,so i think going with a heavier pin in a 6500 rpm sub 700 hp engine is a good idea with no down side.jmo.
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My pistons weigh 4.5oz . My pins .180 pins weight 6.0 oz. Seems like a lot.
I`m sure it`s fine and them titaniums are big$$ however another 2lbs weight shed is intriguing. I like that Molnar is local, family owned, owner picks up the phone, takes pride in his product, employs local people etc etc. It`s like AccuMax Inc. why would I not support a guy like that. :cool-smiley-011: |
Different materials as well for the application. One is preferred for endurance.
http://www.jepistons.com/TechCorner/...rist-Pins.aspx |
Nice threads lately. No arguing, good knowledge being shared, etc.
Vintage chromoly, icdedppl, and myself posting on same thread and no fighting ? Somebody pinch me lol |
It truly is a miracle, and Merry Christmas
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not a miracle,just members doing 2 things.1 paying attention to griff.2 members realizing that we all really do have something in common,i personally like it!
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4385606)
not a miracle,just members doing 2 things.1 paying attention to griff.2 members realizing that we all really do have something in common,i personally like it!
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Amen to the last few posts!
some of you know each other , some not so much, some like me don't know anyone here personally and just like to listen in and occasionally ask a question or add something... dumb or not . Happy holidays, and hope you all have a Merry Christmas! |
Yeah good stuff.
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