Rods
 

They`re all in the same price range, any preferences between brands? (Eagle, Lunati, Scat)


http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/lunat...ting-rods.html


http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/eagle...esp-armor.html


http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-BB-PRO...item3aaf6c5b5f

I've seen enough Eagles break in other applications to not trust them at all. What are in your motors currently?

Eagles that are perfectly fine but I`d like to upgrade to the ARP 2000 bolt.

Eagles are in my 540's w/ arp 2000 7/16 bolts....I like the alignment sleeves CNC is where I got them, that's a good price on the Lunati's

They're all import and not enough difference between them to lose sleep over. I would definitely opt for the ARP2000 bolts given the choices.

Just to throw this out there, Manleys are $650 from Jegs. +$60 more from Summit.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/14062R-8/10002/-1

Another import forging. In that price range I'd look at Molnar rods over all the above.

Eagle rodz no problem yet in a heavy boat im grateful

Dan, in that price range go with the Callies comp star rods they are a great rod for that price range and have the arp 2000 bolts. But in my own personal stuff I run Oliver Billets big block-max and never look back.

I see you guys suggest this a lot. Since Molnar imports his stuff, also, and finish machines in house, what makes there stuff better ? It's a serious question, nothing more since I have never really heard of them other than from your shop.


Manley has been around for a long time making some killer stuff. Extreme example I was able to see during terdowns, A friend had a sbc set on his AMC 401 turning 10k.

My other option is just to resize my current rods and call it a day . Figured if I sell my current rods I wouldn`t be into new rods for too much more but I do have a lot of stuff to buy so saving a few bucks is always on the table

I've spent quite a bit of time on the phone with Tom Molnar. One of the nicest guys I've ever talked to and he was very generous in giving me detailed explanations on what makes his rods different. Web thickness, beam design, and proprietary design on his bolts are a few highlights. He holds very tight tolerances with his finishing as well. Tightest I've seen. Nothing wrong with Manley rods, they're just not any different than any other of the mentioned above imports. All these import rods are way strong...the weak link in any rod will be the bolt. Rods seldom break unless something is really out of whack, but rod bolt failure is all to common. And FWIW, I don't have a problem that any of these are import. IMO a good part is a good part and for the money, any of them are hard to beat. You just have to inspect them closely. I've seen a lot of tolerance issues, finish issues, things like bearing tang placement, taper in the big ends, lots of sharp edges and burrs...this is where they save their money. Kinda like the "out of the box cylinder head" thread...I don't look at these rods as ready to run. The Molnars, yes.

I could be wrong, but to me the similar priced stuff is all basically the same and and finish work makes them perfect, now spending more money gets the better part like always, I am not sure the HP limits of the Eagles, but I will think they are similar as other similar priced rods and probably freshen what you have, I did the 2000 series bolts in my Eagles since guys said that was the weakest link..

I think HP +RPM is where you need to look at, the rods will take much more at lower rpm vs higher..

I will say the rods were much nicer then the cranks from Eagle, my rods were very close in grams when balancing.. Ray said he didn't have to do much to make them the same

I believe the Manley rods are forged overseas but finished in New Jersey.

I think balancing has everything to do with rotating assemblys living, I did things with stock 302 stuff in my Fords that people said would not live like spinning cast rods and crank to 6700 rpm all the time... lived for years....

^^^^


They come standard with 190,000 psi rated 7/16 ARP 8740 (750 Horsepower rating) and 230,000 psi rated, 7/16 ARP 2000 rod bolts (1200 horsepower rating) or 265,000 psi rated 7/16 ARP L-19 bolts (1500 Horsepower rating) as upgrades


Really thou it all comes down to the rpm, stroke, and piston weight, NOT so much HP. I`ve had no issues with the 8740 at 900HP.

exactly, I think if the ratings are there why spend the money on new? refresh and go!!

I have manley's with ARP2000 bolts. They are still connecting my piston to the crank. I like them very much, and thank them often for their services.

Those bolts are no better then the threads in the rods.

I like it when my piston stays connected to my crank :santa:

:D:D:D:D:D:D:cool-smiley-011:

I don't know how a rod can be rated for HP. The biggest stress on a rod is when everything changes direction on the overlap stroke and the weak link in a rod is always the bolt. RPM and piston weight are the two major factors in what a rod can handle. Rating a rod per HP is marketing.

Yep.

new eagle,s with arp 2000 bolts ,around 500 bucks,scat,s with arp 2000,around 500 bucks.manleys with arp 2000,around 500 bucks.or buy new arp 2000 bolts for around 200 bucks plus 100 bucks to get the old rod,s rebuilt for a total of around 300 bucks and you still have used rods that you could of sold for around 200 bucks so you would now have 300 out of pocket for NEW rods with arp 2000 bolts,hhmmm let me think about this,lol.:confused:

So regarding selling the used ones for $200 let's use the same logic. $200 for Used rods about $200 for ARP 2000 bolts plus $100 for resizing = $500 or NEW rods with ARP 2000 bolts for around $500. Sounds like a hard sale.

but the dumb azz who buys them on ebay will be as happy as a pig in the mud because he just bought a set of eagle,s for 200 bucks.and he will run them in his street car as is for 10 years!

As a "non pro" but mechanical engineer I never understood it either....

I would resize or just buy the same rods you have. If you could stay away from rebalancing it will save you some money.

If I thought the rods were perfectly OK as the OP stated and the minimum stress point on the rods far exceeded my maximum output I would save the money for other items and just ARP and resize what I have. The great debate is always what to replace and where to conserve.

rebuild the OLD rods and you still have OLD,USED rods vs spending SAME amount and having NEW .yep,you win.do you think any eagle rod in a 900 hp marine endurance engine is going to last forever?some people will walk past a dollar to pick up a dime because it is shiny.to each their own.rods &rod bolts is not the place to conserve imo.

we run K1 billet rods in our turbo LS engine 26psi now, can run 30, work well, arp 2000 bolts in those as well

I Was referred to Tom Molnar before meeting you. One of the best and educational phone calls I've ever made in this industry. This guy knows his stuff! Seems like one of the best bang for the buck products in the industry. Even though they weren't the best choice for my application (but he wasn't scared of me using them) since I was planning 1200+hp Whipple motors, he still took the time to help me select carillo rods with Carr bolts. Great guy that's been in this industry a long time. His asemetrical bolts are the ticket also.

Pardon my ignorance, but if the rods are straight and true, and the bearing surfaces are good, what would be the reason for changing? Stress? Number of cycles.
Were there a ton of hours on these engines? Just curious,

Because we are GUYS and that's what we do! :lolhit:

Yes and yes....... fatigue and they will stretch,

Okay, l guess I can see the fatigue side of things, but it seems they would deflect rather than stretch, as I would think the compression stroke puts by far the biggest load on them.
Why I ask is we all know that new parts fail as well, so if you have a proven piece thats still in spec.
andwasn't harmed during the event leading to the teardown, why not.
Still goes back to if the engine had a ton of hours I suppose.
Also aren't those 500 dollar rods closer to 6 or 7 hundred by the time they're remachined and ready to run,as previously stated.

The biggest destructive load a rod sees by far is when the piston changes direction @ TDC on the overlap stroke. As far as combustion pressure, the column strength of any of these rods is probably overkill and would out last most of our lifetimes.

I thought material fatigue was only an issue with aluminium. I've been led to believe steel was a make or break deal, as long as you don't exceed its specs it will last, unlike aluminium which will always ultimately fatigue and break.

I always figured they just last if not broken for any reason, I also always wondered what is stronger? H beam or I beam? the H looks stronger but seems many high end rods are I beam. is it more about the weight?

There is two sides to that camp, as far as which is stronger.

But yeh, there are many $1500 and up I beams that will be stronger than the $500 H-Beams.

There are $2k+ H beams out there too..sooooo