Very true. My point in having any flow testing done, was purely for my own curiousity. The dart heads, on my 468's, with the rest of the combo, made 800HP with just under 7lbs boost at 6,000, on 93 gas, with a roots blower. I merely wanted to see how the out of the box EQ heads, stacked up flow wise, to the Darts, both having similar port volumes, tested on the same bench. Although, the port shape, like short side radius, throat diameter/ratio, and so on, are different. As far as the porting or mods to them, I'm leaving that up to my head guy, as he's been porting and doing nothing but cylinder heads, since I was in grade school . That stuff is above my pay grade. I do know he didn't care for the throat diameter to valve size or what have you on my old darts, and some other things the last shop did as far as finish work after installing new seats. I was happy with the combo as far as power goes, but like anything, wanted something different, and something "NEW". Being somewhat of a budget guy, with twin engines, dropping 7000 plus on new CNC heads ready to bolt on, just wasnt my idea of a good time lol. I think alot of guys spend the extra money for CNC ported heads, and skimp on other areas of the build. Like you said, sometimes, it just isn't needed for these types of builds. An extra 20hp per engine, won't do squat for my speedometer in my heavy old boat. That extra 1500 dollars, would probably be better used for things like prop work, better ignitions, or so on.

What I liked about the price of the EQ heads, is they would allow me to purchase them, and spend some extra money having them gone thru and set up for my engines. The valve job , the springs tailored to my setup, rather than a generic set of springs most heads come with as far as distance to coil bind, etc, which valves I want, guide clearances checked, and so on.

Thats true but you can also get the AFR's built to order complete with PAC spings, retainers, locks, seals, and good valves for about $2600.

When buying bare heads buyers still have to factor in how much you're going to spend on valves, springs, retainers, keepers, seals etc. After all that the prices are not far off.

I'm not nocking EQ or any other bare heads cost. I'm just saying you have to invest a lot more then the head itself and pay the machinist to set everything to your specs unless you have your own machines in the garage.

^^^^
Then you`re back to the out of the box heads (production line)vs. properly set up heads discussion.

Your local machinist can do way better than then an assembly line.... this is in fact if you have a guy who is good and knows what he`s going. If you don`t you`re better off with out of the box heads.
Mine and Joes heads done by the same monkey couldn`t pass for 5th grade machining, assembly and parts compatibility and in that case I`d rather have out of the box heads.

Ya well let me tell you about a lesson learned... Nothing like buying them assembled and "ready" then to spend even more making them right... As me how I know...

First time I saw the EQ BB Chev heads at PRI I thought they would be a player in the iron head market, especially for the price. I think you made a good choice.

Obviously, I know this, but you bring up a good point. Yes, a BARE head, will need parts and setup, prior to bolting on.

Competition products is selling this head completely assembled, for under 1600 per pair. They will install inconel valves if needed for an upcharge. I believe they quoted me an extra 160 bucks or something like that when I inquired.

http://www.competitionproducts.com/E.../#.VrqsYObLo-A

I am currently working out a package with my cylinder head guy on these. That will include super alloy ferrea valves, competition plus intakes, and various spring setups, all tolerances checked, and assembled to spec.

As far as the spring AFR uses, I was told you get a "PAC" spring, but then AFR said the spring was made by pioneer or something? If you can get an AFR 325 head, with a true PAC endurance spring, and inconel valves, for 2600 ready to bolt on, then that is a steal for sure.

By no means am I trying to start an AFR VS Engine Quest war here. Two totally different heads. However, I am kind of over the "AFR is only way to go " trend around here when it comes to cylinder heads. Dart, Brodix, and others all make good heads, at various price points.

That is the same valves I'm going with for my bare 308 darts. With isky 8205 sp springs, retainers, locators, locks, seals, guide plates, studs, decking, and checking and setting guide clearance and seats on top of cleaning up castings.......I'm looking forward to boating....

Cleaned up and restored to continue the respectful discussion.

So I was thinking about this.. not really alum vs iron, just heads in general... I keep seeing flow bench numbers.. Im guessing you would want the flow of the head to exceed the actual flow requirments of the motor, but by how much? is there more efficiency when the numbers are more closely matched?and how do you determine what the actual flow requirements of a motore are?

And does EFI vs Carb make a difference? I have too many questions... When your squirting atomized fuel directly at the valve/cylinder Does port velocity still matter or does it just matter that you get X amount of air into the cylinder ??

My top ends have less the 50 hours on them so not looking to throw them away but if I where to get a bare set of newer style round port head to get more flow would I be able to switch everything over. Or would it not be worth it and just wait till the next rebuild or brake to switch to the new ones?