Pyro's and O2 sensors
#1
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Pyro's and O2 sensors
Hey guys I need help. I have a new set of Stainless Marine Exhaust risers and tails that have pyro and O2 bungs in each side and I need to know what type pyros and O2 sensors I need to buy. I also need what type O2 monitor I need to buy. I want to be able to put the O2s in and tune my motor.
Thanks AJ
Thanks AJ
#2
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I have the FAST dual wide band on my setup and works well. I know a lot of people like the Innovate lm1 wideband. Those are two good brand standalone air fuel monitors. You don't need a dual wideband it is just what I had. I use it on my turbo car and anyone's car that wants to tune.
http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/gaso...le-sensorhtml/
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php
http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/gaso...le-sensorhtml/
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php
#4
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I've used the dual channel FAST O2's for years now. I have 4 of them, so I can read up to 8 O2's at a time. They all got to the point where they were eating sensors on a regular basis. Every time I would tune a boat, I would lose at least 1 sensor, sometime 2 or more. It really got expensive. I finally got to the point where I didn't trust them anymore. So, I bought 2 dual channel units from Daytona Sensors. I wish I would have bought them years ago. They are fantastic. They are priced comparably to any other dual channel. Do yourself a favor and buy a dual channel, especially if you are tuning an SC engine. You will see some variances from bank to bank. You must tune on the lean bank. If you don't know what the lean bank is, you could have some issues by leaning out the other side too much.
Eddie
Eddie
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He brought up a good point. When using the wideband you go off of the leanest number you see. Because not only do each banks run a little different but each cylinder are a little different. So even though you might be a little rich overall after tune you don't want one cylinder running lean. Also you can get away with a single and switch from side to side to see which one is the lean bank.
On the burning up 02 sensors. I have heard that a lot. What I did was tune it, then pull them out. Would be nice to run them all the time but really should stay where you tune it. That is unless something fails. Also I didn't turn mine on until after a little run time and turned off before shutting down. That way I didn't run a chance of getting them wet. I do have a semi-dry exhaust, but water is what kills the 02's. Plus my cam is a little aggressive so we had a reversion problem for a while until we went almost dry exhaust.
On the burning up 02 sensors. I have heard that a lot. What I did was tune it, then pull them out. Would be nice to run them all the time but really should stay where you tune it. That is unless something fails. Also I didn't turn mine on until after a little run time and turned off before shutting down. That way I didn't run a chance of getting them wet. I do have a semi-dry exhaust, but water is what kills the 02's. Plus my cam is a little aggressive so we had a reversion problem for a while until we went almost dry exhaust.
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I've used the dual channel FAST O2's for years now. I have 4 of them, so I can read up to 8 O2's at a time. They all got to the point where they were eating sensors on a regular basis. Every time I would tune a boat, I would lose at least 1 sensor, sometime 2 or more. It really got expensive. I finally got to the point where I didn't trust them anymore. So, I bought 2 dual channel units from Daytona Sensors. I wish I would have bought them years ago. They are fantastic. They are priced comparably to any other dual channel. Do yourself a favor and buy a dual channel, especially if you are tuning an SC engine. You will see some variances from bank to bank. You must tune on the lean bank. If you don't know what the lean bank is, you could have some issues by leaning out the other side too much.
Eddie
Eddie
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I already knew this about Daytona Sensors and they are a very good company to do business with. They make stuff in house and just wanted to pass this vid on. I can not say enough about Daytona Sensors. Great small company to buy from and or if you just have any questions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SudhMmUaJJY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SudhMmUaJJY
Last edited by BUP; 02-04-2016 at 10:35 PM.
#9
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Generally, NA engines will be close. I don't think I have ever seen one with more than 1 point difference. SC engines can be bad and certainly need to be checked.
Eddie
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It really depends. NA engines don't usually have much variance. They are usually within .5 or so. SC engines can get pretty bad, especially if the blower is spinning really slow. Whipple's can be really bad if they spin slowly. It's really only a problem when the engine is in vacuum. Once the get out of vacuum and into boost, they will usually straighten out. I have seen some engines with Whipples that had almost 4 points from one bank to the other. The only way to fix it is to spin the blower faster. Once we went to DIS, it helped a bunch, but it certainly didn't fix it.
Generally, NA engines will be close. I don't think I have ever seen one with more than 1 point difference. SC engines can be bad and certainly need to be checked.
Eddie
Generally, NA engines will be close. I don't think I have ever seen one with more than 1 point difference. SC engines can be bad and certainly need to be checked.
Eddie