632ci Build Specs
#11
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
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From: chicago
#12
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,356
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From: NW Michigan
i would think you'd have 3k plus into the block and machinig and another 3,500 min into the heads. That's 6,500 just between those two. With the kind of power your your planning to build I wouldn't scrimp at all on the rotating assm. Some have great luck with scat cranks but I honestly would be scepticle in anything over 454/496. I know there's a ton of them out there running flawlessly but i would really consider rethinking the internals. It's kinda like purchasing one of those White engines you See on eBay for peanuts. Nothing against them or any other company selling cheap engines and may be perfectly fine for street with short spurtts but not balls out for several minutes at a time.
I recently got some numbers together for a couple 565/572's
Block and machinig/prep 3k
Rotating assm 5k
Heads complete. 4k
Intake, cam, carb, lifters 3k
Gaskets, pushrods, accs 1k
Oil pan-pump, valve covers. 2k
18k Each apprx.
Corners can be cut here and there so say nock off 2k but then add the other little things that add up. Some of the above numbers are rounded off but the general cost are there.
I recently got some numbers together for a couple 565/572's
Block and machinig/prep 3k
Rotating assm 5k
Heads complete. 4k
Intake, cam, carb, lifters 3k
Gaskets, pushrods, accs 1k
Oil pan-pump, valve covers. 2k
18k Each apprx.
Corners can be cut here and there so say nock off 2k but then add the other little things that add up. Some of the above numbers are rounded off but the general cost are there.
Last edited by getrdunn; 03-18-2016 at 04:44 PM.
#14
I hired a guy as a fabricator at my shop. This guy can do about anything. He has been going on and on about letting him build me a motor. He put together a list of these parts for $8500 and he will build no charge. I figure if your trying to build your boss a motor you better be confident in your ability.
10.2 Dart Big M Sportsman Block
4.6 Bore
4.75 Stroke
Scat 4340 Forged Crank
7.5cc Dish .2618 JE Pistons
6.700 Carrillo Rods
385cc AFR Aluminum CNC Heads
2.350 Intake
1.880 Exhaust
2pc rear main seal, splayed end caps, decked, boared, complete blueprint, coated cam bearings, fully balanced rotating assembly. I may be off a little on specs or terminology, I was taking notes as he was listing parts.
Do you think this list of parts will work together? Is there anything you would change? I'm not expecting someone to give me there secret build specs. But my goal is to have a large cubic inch n/a reliable motor and I want to make sure the specs look good before i throw away $8500 . He did not specify cam and I am running Stainless Marine Gen III Dry Exhaust. Any information would be greatly appreciated and hopefully end my bad luck with boat motors.
10.2 Dart Big M Sportsman Block
4.6 Bore
4.75 Stroke
Scat 4340 Forged Crank
7.5cc Dish .2618 JE Pistons
6.700 Carrillo Rods
385cc AFR Aluminum CNC Heads
2.350 Intake
1.880 Exhaust
2pc rear main seal, splayed end caps, decked, boared, complete blueprint, coated cam bearings, fully balanced rotating assembly. I may be off a little on specs or terminology, I was taking notes as he was listing parts.
Do you think this list of parts will work together? Is there anything you would change? I'm not expecting someone to give me there secret build specs. But my goal is to have a large cubic inch n/a reliable motor and I want to make sure the specs look good before i throw away $8500 . He did not specify cam and I am running Stainless Marine Gen III Dry Exhaust. Any information would be greatly appreciated and hopefully end my bad luck with boat motors.
And I don't think you will have a good ring pack with that stroke and a 6.7 rod.
Last edited by 14 apache; 03-18-2016 at 08:12 PM.
#15
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He is claiming 1000hp. I'm looking for a minimal 850hp. My opinion there is no need to spin over 5800 RPM. By comments in this post, his numbers seem to be on the extreme end of the spectrum. Im tired of buying other people's boats with a motor on the way out. Im looking to build a reliable motor that will last in a boat I plan on keeping for a long time. I want to be on the conservative end and have parts that will live. I have a huge oil cooler, 2 oil filters, canton 14qt pan and accusump system. We plan on traveling the U.S. and do several poker runs this year. I have the components to support a motor for long run durations, now I need a motor that can do it.
#16
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
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From: chicago
My opinion, if you are wanting a "Reliable" fairly long lasting engine, would be build yourself a 540-565 engine with the 9.8 block(4.25x4.xxx bore), and put a roots/screw blower on it(8-71,10-71, sounds like budget minded so prob roots/carb?), with a mild hydraulic roller camshaft. Keyword, "mild'. Enjoy a valvetrain thats easy on parts, and go boating. With that combo, 850hp can be done with 5-6lbs of boost, idle well, and live a long life. You'd be good with a sportsman priced crank/rods, off the shelf stuff, and a basic set of aftermarket heads, standard wet sump oiling, basic valvetrain components, nothing exotic. Focus on good machine work, good assembly, and a good tune, and you'll be good to go. The GEN 3 stainless marine exhaust works best with forced induction. Just my opinion.
#17
My opinion, if you are wanting a "Reliable" fairly long lasting engine, would be build yourself a 540-565 engine with the 9.8 block(4.25x4.xxx bore), and put a roots/screw blower on it(8-71,10-71, sounds like budget minded so prob roots/carb?), with a mild hydraulic roller camshaft. Keyword, "mild'. Enjoy a valvetrain thats easy on parts, and go boating. With that combo, 850hp can be done with 5-6lbs of boost, idle well, and live a long life. You'd be good with a sportsman priced crank/rods, off the shelf stuff, and a basic set of aftermarket heads, standard wet sump oiling, basic valvetrain components, nothing exotic. Focus on good machine work, good assembly, and a good tune, and you'll be good to go. The GEN 3 stainless marine exhaust works best with forced induction. Just my opinion.
#18
He is claiming 1000hp. I'm looking for a minimal 850hp. My opinion there is no need to spin over 5800 RPM. By comments in this post, his numbers seem to be on the extreme end of the spectrum. Im tired of buying other people's boats with a motor on the way out. Im looking to build a reliable motor that will last in a boat I plan on keeping for a long time. I want to be on the conservative end and have parts that will live. I have a huge oil cooler, 2 oil filters, canton 14qt pan and accusump system. We plan on traveling the U.S. and do several poker runs this year. I have the components to support a motor for long run durations, now I need a motor that can do it.
#19
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,728
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From: Troy, Mich
For the OP, follow Eddie Youngs advice and stay at/under 4.5 stroke.
My suggestion is to look at the Chevy 572 - 620 HP and use them as a base engine. You can buy the long block for 12,500 and finish for not a lot of $.
My suggestion is to look at the Chevy 572 - 620 HP and use them as a base engine. You can buy the long block for 12,500 and finish for not a lot of $.



