I know those rockers take a min of 2" studs, see post #65.

Knowing what i know now Glen, i wish i had changed over to 7/16 base thread when i had the heads off. But actually, the 2.0 stud will still only give me 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 threads max even with the slightly shorter push rods coming in.

But time's running low so I'll try to solve it with new rockers if the crane or HS brands will do the trick. Like Eddie Young told me, he's done too many of them with nothing but the rockers and 1.9 studs.

The cam was on the base circle.

Going to borrow a couple tools and I will check the lift. I will also pump the lifters back up and recheck the geometry pattern after i put in a checker spring as you mentioned.

I will also find a different rocker or order new ones from you Eddie. New slightly shorter (.065" and .085" shorter) pushrods are due Tuesday but i realize that is not enough to solve the stud issue, but may get the stem geometry slightly better.

thanks for all these details. These may seem basic to you guru's, but if you haven't done it much.... well I'm learning about all this detail crap instead of just being able to "bolt it up", which is always nice but i guess often not realistic. I was just told "Welcome to the world of engine building" haha.

Cap'm I think you are finally on the right road. Eddie will not lead you astray. Trying to make these rockers work at this point makes no sense to me.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554546[/ATTACH]

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This boat runs really good for 100% stock Very smooth and stable with the 27 deg deep V with zero pad. Runs a true gps 76mph now with a couple peeps and half tank and gear. I would like to hit a strong 80 as it is. If i have to pull the motors in the future i will put in a mild cam.

I went to the rockers only because my stock stamped ones were worn and needed replacing anyway and figured a few horses from the rockers is a few horses-it all starts adding up.
A relative that did the valve job and did the triple angle job.

I also shortened the runners on the intake slightly and tapered them while i had the intake off. Cost nothing but my time.
Oh, also am just putting on Eddie Marine manifolds as mine were severely corroded at the gasket surface.

Sure looking for that strong 80mph and would be proud to say ... no cams(for now) or new intakes.

Maybe dumb question, but did you make sure the pushrod is in the lifter cup ? Sometimes it can feel this way but it's sitting on side of lifter.

If the new rockers work out let me know, I have a few guys doing build with heads drilled 7/16 already. Someone may be interested in those rockers

You can't tighten a hyd lifter down 2 turns past zero lash. It would turn it into a solid and most likely ruin the lifters and cam.

Plenty of people have done the conversion including me. I used those studs, but used Crane rocker arms.
All you have to do is grind of the dripper tabs inside the valve covers for them to work.

I think if he can return the rockers he is doing the world a favor and getting full price. those big dia trunions put the rocker up too high to begin with, and the poly lock has to be up higher still. they had to lower the point the rocker contacts the valve in relation to the center of the trunion to keep geometry close. the pivot point is supposed to be as low on the rocker stud as possible to reduce side loads on the stud.

checking valve lift; divide .483 expected lift by 1.72 and the cam lift should be .281. you can measure that with a set of calipers 29 bucks any auto parts store. don't need a 1 inch dial indicator and stand but the vise grip mount version is 35 bucks at harbor freight.