Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4434797)

Lot of guessing going on.

Ill stick to monitoring the Intake air temps and pressure inside the core when I get it in the water. I dont wanna guess that i have enough water flow, or what my intake temps are, or any of that information. I cant afford to guess , my pockets are shallow, and the boating season is short.

I highly doubt, keith eickert, blower shop, teague, whipple, and pf marine, are putting big water fittings on their intercoolers, because "it just isnt needed" or to make extra money .

Everybody said roots blowers make gobs of heat, and 200 degree temps are the norm. Dan and i decided to mount intake temp gauges and guess what we found, that theory didnt apply to his roots setup. 140 degrees when holding it wot on the water on a 85 degree day. A whopping 25 degrees cooler , than our buddys intercooled 1071 setup on the dyno. Then again, it had minimal water flow thru the intercooler on the dyno. If a 2,000 dollar intercooler, has 60 degree water thru it, and can only take out 25 degrees of air temp properly setup, in my opinion, it was a waste of time.

Everyone said that if he upped the boost, the temps will go up to. Went from 6psi to 8psi, temps stayed the same.

Everyone says you can crank the boost up with an intercooler. You can run more timing with an intercooler, you can do all this stuff with an intercooler, that you couldnt without one. Very few actually have any data to back that up though.

Example. If dans non intercooled setup has 140 deg air temps, and he bolts on an intercooler, and only gets to 125 degree air temps, not so sure id be betting on that 15 degree air temp change, as a green light to crank the boost and timing up . Of course, we could ignore the temp readings, go off what we heard, and more than likely, end up pulling the engines back out before they are even broken in.

Originally Posted by mike tkach (Post 4434810)

joe,i think the intake air temp will go up on a long hard run but have no data to prove that.

Originally Posted by mike tkach (Post 4434801)

couple more things and i will shut up.i am not convinced that the puny core in teague,s chiller,same as ke, core or the blower shop core can move all the water two -12 lines can supply.i am aware that the blower shop sais 100 lbs is ok with their core,but i have had that core in my hands and no way would i trust it to 100 lbs.if i was going to run big boost and really needed to cool that much heat i would pass on all three brands that have been talked about and i would buy a couple of dennis parvy,s coolers or whipple,s biggest cooler but i sure don,t feel the need at the small boost that i run.i guess i,and all the others running low boost with teague,s pluming and no gauges are just plain stupid.do you really think you need a 1.25 dia hose and dual -12 lines to keep that little core cool,hell a 1.25 line cools my engine,oil&trans cooler plus a power steering cooler and the water temp exiting the engine is 110 deg.ok i am done,i gotta go to the outhouse and take a dump.

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4434819)

Dan has had the intake temp gauges in his boat, for 2 years now. They don't go up on long hard runs. .

Originally Posted by vintage chromoly (Post 4434824)

Mike, I'd highly recommend that you measure the velocity of the falling turd and chart the amplitude of the splash back. Just staring at the loaf in the bowl won't tell you $hit! :hitfan:

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4434651)

Now they offer high flow endcaps. Why?

http://teaguecustommarine.com/em0011...illet-end.html