Superchiller water flow testing
05-02-2016 | 07:42 PM
#41
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From: yorkville,il
Lot of guessing going on.
Ill stick to monitoring the Intake air temps and pressure inside the core when I get it in the water. I dont wanna guess that i have enough water flow, or what my intake temps are, or any of that information. I cant afford to guess , my pockets are shallow, and the boating season is short.
I highly doubt, keith eickert, blower shop, teague, whipple, and pf marine, are putting big water fittings on their intercoolers, because "it just isnt needed" or to make extra money .
Everybody said roots blowers make gobs of heat, and 200 degree temps are the norm. Dan and i decided to mount intake temp gauges and guess what we found, that theory didnt apply to his roots setup. 140 degrees when holding it wot on the water on a 85 degree day. A whopping 25 degrees cooler , than our buddys intercooled 1071 setup on the dyno. Then again, it had minimal water flow thru the intercooler on the dyno. If a 2,000 dollar intercooler, has 60 degree water thru it, and can only take out 25 degrees of air temp properly setup, in my opinion, it was a waste of time.
Everyone said that if he upped the boost, the temps will go up to. Went from 6psi to 8psi, temps stayed the same.
Everyone says you can crank the boost up with an intercooler. You can run more timing with an intercooler, you can do all this stuff with an intercooler, that you couldnt without one. Very few actually have any data to back that up though.
Example. If dans non intercooled setup has 140 deg air temps, and he bolts on an intercooler, and only gets to 125 degree air temps, not so sure id be betting on that 15 degree air temp change, as a green light to crank the boost and timing up . Of course, we could ignore the temp readings, go off what we heard, and more than likely, end up pulling the engines back out before they are even broken in.
Ill stick to monitoring the Intake air temps and pressure inside the core when I get it in the water. I dont wanna guess that i have enough water flow, or what my intake temps are, or any of that information. I cant afford to guess , my pockets are shallow, and the boating season is short.
I highly doubt, keith eickert, blower shop, teague, whipple, and pf marine, are putting big water fittings on their intercoolers, because "it just isnt needed" or to make extra money .
Everybody said roots blowers make gobs of heat, and 200 degree temps are the norm. Dan and i decided to mount intake temp gauges and guess what we found, that theory didnt apply to his roots setup. 140 degrees when holding it wot on the water on a 85 degree day. A whopping 25 degrees cooler , than our buddys intercooled 1071 setup on the dyno. Then again, it had minimal water flow thru the intercooler on the dyno. If a 2,000 dollar intercooler, has 60 degree water thru it, and can only take out 25 degrees of air temp properly setup, in my opinion, it was a waste of time.
Everyone said that if he upped the boost, the temps will go up to. Went from 6psi to 8psi, temps stayed the same.
Everyone says you can crank the boost up with an intercooler. You can run more timing with an intercooler, you can do all this stuff with an intercooler, that you couldnt without one. Very few actually have any data to back that up though.
Example. If dans non intercooled setup has 140 deg air temps, and he bolts on an intercooler, and only gets to 125 degree air temps, not so sure id be betting on that 15 degree air temp change, as a green light to crank the boost and timing up . Of course, we could ignore the temp readings, go off what we heard, and more than likely, end up pulling the engines back out before they are even broken in.
05-02-2016 | 07:52 PM
#42
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From: chicago
05-02-2016 | 08:01 PM
#43
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From: cleveland ohio
couple more things and i will shut up.i am not convinced that the puny core in teague,s chiller,same as ke, core or the blower shop core can move all the water two -12 lines can supply.i am aware that the blower shop sais 100 lbs is ok with their core,but i have had that core in my hands and no way would i trust it to 100 lbs.if i was going to run big boost and really needed to cool that much heat i would pass on all three brands that have been talked about and i would buy a couple of dennis parvy,s coolers or whipple,s biggest cooler but i sure don,t feel the need at the small boost that i run.i guess i,and all the others running low boost with teague,s pluming and no gauges are just plain stupid.do you really think you need a 1.25 dia hose and dual -12 lines to keep that little core cool,hell a 1.25 line cools my engine,oil&trans cooler plus a power steering cooler and the water temp exiting the engine is 110 deg.ok i am done,i gotta go to the outhouse and take a dump.
05-02-2016 | 08:18 PM
#45
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From: yorkville,il
just to clear the air,i like gauges for monitering things but i have more than i can keep up with now and no room for any more.btw,all mine are working and in the process of getting the fuel gauges to read correctly.
05-02-2016 | 08:24 PM
#46
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Cooling principles of water and thermodynamic heat transfer. Velocity (flow), Reynolds numbers (turbulence) increase flow and you increase your cooling. I use a water flow meter many times/week.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/re...pes-d_574.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/re...pes-d_574.html
05-02-2016 | 09:16 PM
#47
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From: yorkville,il
what bowl,can,t afford one,just a big old hole in the ground under my outhouse,thats how we do it in the country. we can,t roll like the city folks.
05-03-2016 | 09:43 AM
#49
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From: Northport N.Y.
05-03-2016 | 10:06 AM
#50
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From: Vancouver BC
Joe, when you convert to EFI next year 
you'll be able to monitor and datalog the intercooler pressure, and IAT, and program warnings based on anything being out of line. You can program a timing modifier based on IAT, and even tell the ecu to pull power if you're not paying attention to the gauges. I know some of you big blower guys aren't sold on efi yet.. But when you add up the cost of your ignition boxes, afr guages, standalone knock systems, additional monitoring gauges, etc. You can start to see the benefit, especially when it can save your engine. Not trying to hijack, I like where you're going with the testing and monitoring because how else would you know? MikeT I think it's funny that you have such a casual attitude towards monitoring critical engine components after burning up a few engines. Proper monitoring and testing probably could have saved you a bunch of $$$$.
you'll be able to monitor and datalog the intercooler pressure, and IAT, and program warnings based on anything being out of line. You can program a timing modifier based on IAT, and even tell the ecu to pull power if you're not paying attention to the gauges. I know some of you big blower guys aren't sold on efi yet.. But when you add up the cost of your ignition boxes, afr guages, standalone knock systems, additional monitoring gauges, etc. You can start to see the benefit, especially when it can save your engine. Not trying to hijack, I like where you're going with the testing and monitoring because how else would you know? MikeT I think it's funny that you have such a casual attitude towards monitoring critical engine components after burning up a few engines. Proper monitoring and testing probably could have saved you a bunch of $$$$.
