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Old 05-29-2016 | 05:17 AM
  #41  
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From: bel air, md
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Originally Posted by minxguy
150 for an oil temp is way to cold. 180 should be the min to flash off ant condensate. Oil is tested for viscosity at 210 F.

Put some oil t-stats in and keep the temps up.

Zinc doesn't fall out of suspension, zinc is a consumable reserve boundary lubricant and one of the reasons you change oil is to replenish zinc. It also is an anti-oxidant.

Racing oil, may not have the detergent [package you need for longer drains because as normal maintenance on a race motor, the oil usually gets changed after every race and the detergent package is replaced.

Ken
So you mean to tell me if I spend $10+/qt on racing oil I need to change it more frequently...? Glad someone else pointed it out.

I know your a pretty smart oil guy what are your thoughts on Renegade Racing oil?
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Old 05-29-2016 | 06:47 PM
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It is very possible your racing oil could be short in some additives, send it out for an analysis. If that is the case, you need to change it more often.

What does a Cup car run, 600 miles max, not many hours.

I am not familiar with Renegade Racing Oil, but you could also send that out for analysis.

A smart oil guy, not really, just read alot.

ken
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Old 05-31-2016 | 04:00 PM
  #43  
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guess what I really would like to hear is someone who has been running this, and had good oil temps if they pulled pan off and what it looked like. still thinking mine was from cold oil temps, but be nice to be sure...like to keep running in the gibson
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Old 06-06-2016 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
I use it (Conventional Rotella 15/40) in a bunch in boats, mostly stock ones. A few 502's, Many small blocks. Some date back to mid eighty's.Never been apart. Still running good to this day.

Did use it for Gen V 502 for bunch of years. When it came apart to modify, it was fine inside. But this was about 8-10yrs ago, so was before the formulation change.

Edit in: A small block (bazzilion hrs) was mod'd also, Pan came off to do cam change and etc. Very clean. This too was before the formulation change.
Why 15/40 and not SAE40? Noticing on my gen6 7.4lx's the preferred viscosity is straight 40.
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Old 06-16-2016 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Tractionless
Why 15/40 and not SAE40? Noticing on my gen6 7.4lx's the preferred viscosity is straight 40.
At 210 degrees F a straight 40 and a 15W40 are the exact same viscosity.

the benefit of a 15W40 over a straight 40 is that it offers easier pump ability when cold so you bearings get oil pressure faster.

Ken
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Old 08-14-2016 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by minxguy
At 210 degrees F a straight 40 and a 15W40 are the exact same viscosity.

the benefit of a 15W40 over a straight 40 is that it offers easier pump ability when cold so you bearings get oil pressure faster.

Ken
No issue with cold oil in S. Fla. guess I'll stick with the manufacturers specified fill.
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Old 08-14-2016 | 07:41 PM
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Heat that oil up, It needs to be at least 210*. With your cold oil and water temps you might be seeing combustion particulate in the pan . Besides with warmer oil temps you make more HP and have less wear .
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