Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > General Q & A
Comp Cams - Issues with rocker arms, premature failure. >

Comp Cams - Issues with rocker arms, premature failure.

Notices

Comp Cams - Issues with rocker arms, premature failure.

Thread Tools
 
Old 06-03-2016 | 10:15 PM
  #21  
14 apache's Avatar
Platinum Member
20 Year Member
Platinum Member
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 15
From: Northport N.Y.
Default

Originally Posted by Rookie
And don't put that plug on the back side of the block by the freeze plug...
It will make a mess in the shop when you prime the it!
Ya I herd someone used that plug in a sbc under the head. LOL That's a *****. Give you credit for owning up to it. I don't know what this guy did but he fd upd. All good he learned the hard way I have too.
14 apache is offline  
Reply
Old 06-03-2016 | 10:23 PM
  #22  
Registered
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,356
Likes: 1,515
From: NW Michigan
Default

Originally Posted by distantthunder
Thanks for the input everyone. I should of clarified a bit more. This is my first BBC engine build and I adjusted the valves too tight during the assembly phase which was noticed and corrected however, it was too late at that point. You have to start somewhere and this is just a learning experience for me. Additionally, I believe Comp Cams have a great product and great support. I wouldn't expect them to warranty anything and I stated that when I spoke with them yesterday, I just wanted their input on the situation (other than you didn't do something right) which they provided based on the pictures. They do want the rocker arms back to verify that it is not a manufacturing defect with the machined oil gallery as they said it's rare, but has happened before especially since it wasn't all of the rockers that had an issue on my installation.

I was mainly posting this for everyone's thoughts on a cause and additional suggestions for me to avoid this in the future. I also wanted to get this on the OSO forum in case another amateur engine builder comes across this, they can see my experience. Since it will be raining here this weekend, the engine should be getting pulled tonight for a tear down and inspection. All the valve train parts are Comp Cams (K-01-451-8), FYI. I am also going to check out the lubrication system as it is apparent that there was a lack a lubrication at some point while running causing the damage and carbon on the components. Once again, I appreciate everyone's suggestions and I will provide an update when available. I was planning on upgrading the rocker arms and such during this time because I need to buy new parts anyway. Not because I am unhappy with Comp Cams.
I kind of figured as much that's why I made note to not get down on yourself. Might be a little costly but I've seen much worse happen with newbies. We've all made mistakes at one point or another building engines. I think most would agree with that at some point in their life or perhaps their not being honest or they simply haven't even built an engine. I was taught at very young age from one of the most meticulous engine builders I've met even to this day. When I mentioned clean, clean, clean in earlier post that of course is extremely important however actually got me in trouble many years ago on a build.

After I got my rotating assembly back from machine shop having balanced I was adiment about recleaning everything before assemble so I soaked my Pistons, rods, crank, rings etc. So to make a long story short I ran the engine for about 3 minutes during cam brake before it locked up. Would not even roll over. I was dumb founded as to what I could have possibly done wrong or what broke etc as I had built several engines without failure. Needless to say what I had completely forgotten prior to assemble was to relubricate piston pins. When I soaked/recleaned Pistons and rods it had desolved the assembly lube. It finally dawned on me what I had failed to do once I got over the initial shock of having to pull the engine and do a complete tear down.

I was able to save the pistons with honing slightly over acceptable clearance but did have to replace the pins. Needless to say this hurt my pride more so than my wallet however it was a learning lesson. You can never be overly conscientious when it comes to building engines and don't get distracted. Sometime with our busy lives we get involved with many things going on at once. It happens. I am still overly cautious with not only over cleaning parts but also assembling in an exceptionally clean shop. Back to the Pistons and rods if you ever run into such a thing just put your assembled Pistons and rods in the oven at 200 degrees and oil your pins while moving rod side to side and rotating until they are lubed well. I use assembly lube.

Most often I don't assemble them until ready for install however things don't always work out the way you'd like so sometimes they may sit on the shelf before install potentially collecting who knows what. In which case have plenty of siran wrap and clean boxes on hand.

Just thought I'd share this as it may help you or others from making the same mistake as I.

Last edited by getrdunn; 06-04-2016 at 08:23 PM.
getrdunn is offline  
Reply
Old 06-04-2016 | 03:59 AM
  #23  
Registered
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 3
From: OFallon,Mo.
Default

Originally Posted by Mr Maine
When lashing valves with new hydraulic lifters, its very easy to make the mistake of going to zero preload instead of zero lash because the spring in the lifter that holds it up in the absence of oil pressure is very light. What then happens, is another half to one turn is added, and the valve hangs open.

For that reason, I don't like spinning the pushrod to "feel" for when the lash is at zero. I like to jiggle it up and down until lash is gone. You may already know this, but thought I'd share my experience with it.
Something I always do when installing new hydraulic lifters which I haven't heard talked about much on here is I will take a container of the oil type I plan on running in the engine. Then holding a lifter submerged in the oil I will pump it slowly with a pushrod until bubbles stop coming out of it and it is pumped up solid. Then I install it in the engine. It now will not collapse on you so easily when your adjusting the valve. I also adjust both valves on each cylinder with the piston in firing position at TDC. Start with #1 cylinder in firing position, timing mark on "0". Adjust both valves. Then turn the crank 90 degrees and adjust both valves on the next cylinder in the firing order. Continue till all have been adjusted. This method is very accurate and you only turn the engine over 2 revolutions. Another thing is to always install your valve train before putting on your intake manifold so you can clearly see when the pushrod has zero end play to the lifter.
picklenjim is offline  
Reply
Old 06-04-2016 | 07:18 AM
  #24  
Registered
10 Year Member
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 834
Likes: 63
From: The pinnacle of awesome
Default



Same applies for a Chevrolet.

That cam didn't have the 4/7 swap did it???
ham_r_down01 is offline  
Reply
Old 06-06-2016 | 11:48 AM
  #25  
Registered
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,640
Likes: 4
Default

I never really saw the advantage of using the roller tip rocker arms over a good set of the stamped steel units (long slot) for moderate and low lift cams. GM was running these rockers for decades with cams up to around .550 lift with few failures. If you are going to upgrade, spend the extra coin for full roller rockers - good ones, not the cheap Chinese knockoffs.
Budman II is offline  
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.