oil thermostat opening temperature is appropriate?
#31
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
The oil thermostat that KE sells (or did) is 218 degrees. No matter how hard you run your oil stays at 218 so all the water/condensation cooks off.
#32
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Thread Starter
Well just to keep you guys updated. I THINK I bought the 185 degree stat. I can't really remember!!!!! Got the oil up to 180 degrees after about 40-45 miles at 3500. I'm on the right track. I guess I'll go with a warmer thermostat when I get the chance and the money. Much much less "cheese" in the oil. Got some oil blowing out the dip stick. Need to do a leak down test. Breathers aren't obstructed. Only happens after wide open throttle run. We will see. One thing at a time. Thanks for all the help
#33
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iTrader: (3)
I have the mercury racing oil stats. The past two weekends I have had my boat out, I have not seen more than 170-180 degrees of oil temp. Its very rare that I ever get over 200 degrees, unless im running 5500 for several minutes straight. I do not, nor have I ever , had milky issues. (no water stats and cold lake mi water)
Personally, I think that "you must get oil to 212* or it will never boil out condensation" is malarky. its not like if you only get it to 210*, your gonna have milk. 212 is the boiling point of water, however, it is not, the evaporation point of water.
The other thing to keep in mind, is that just because your gauge, or pan temperature is 200 degrees, doesn't mean the oil "somewhere" in the engine , isn't exceeding 212. It likely is .
Simple test. Put a small soup pot of water on the stove. Leave it at room temperature. It will stay there for days. Next, heat the water to 150-175 degrees. Within a short amount of time, the water will indeed evaporate. Heat it to boiling, and it will evaporate faster, thats all.
Personally, I think that "you must get oil to 212* or it will never boil out condensation" is malarky. its not like if you only get it to 210*, your gonna have milk. 212 is the boiling point of water, however, it is not, the evaporation point of water.
The other thing to keep in mind, is that just because your gauge, or pan temperature is 200 degrees, doesn't mean the oil "somewhere" in the engine , isn't exceeding 212. It likely is .
Simple test. Put a small soup pot of water on the stove. Leave it at room temperature. It will stay there for days. Next, heat the water to 150-175 degrees. Within a short amount of time, the water will indeed evaporate. Heat it to boiling, and it will evaporate faster, thats all.
#35
My oil temp at gauge is 240-260* after extended hard runs. I am measuring temps before the cooler at the remote oil filter mount. Temps do not seem to rise much more than that. I have a 3" X 21" inch cooler so I am hoping for 50* of cooling after the oil runs through the cooler. So that would put me at 190-210*. Does that seem like a reasonable expectation?
I am running a water circulating pump and a 160* Tstat.
I am running a water circulating pump and a 160* Tstat.
#36
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
I have the mercury racing oil stats. The past two weekends I have had my boat out, I have not seen more than 170-180 degrees of oil temp. Its very rare that I ever get over 200 degrees, unless im running 5500 for several minutes straight. I do not, nor have I ever , had milky issues. (no water stats and cold lake mi water)
Personally, I think that "you must get oil to 212* or it will never boil out condensation" is malarky. its not like if you only get it to 210*, your gonna have milk. 212 is the boiling point of water, however, it is not, the evaporation point of water.
The other thing to keep in mind, is that just because your gauge, or pan temperature is 200 degrees, doesn't mean the oil "somewhere" in the engine , isn't exceeding 212. It likely is .
Simple test. Put a small soup pot of water on the stove. Leave it at room temperature. It will stay there for days. Next, heat the water to 150-175 degrees. Within a short amount of time, the water will indeed evaporate. Heat it to boiling, and it will evaporate faster, thats all.
Personally, I think that "you must get oil to 212* or it will never boil out condensation" is malarky. its not like if you only get it to 210*, your gonna have milk. 212 is the boiling point of water, however, it is not, the evaporation point of water.
The other thing to keep in mind, is that just because your gauge, or pan temperature is 200 degrees, doesn't mean the oil "somewhere" in the engine , isn't exceeding 212. It likely is .
Simple test. Put a small soup pot of water on the stove. Leave it at room temperature. It will stay there for days. Next, heat the water to 150-175 degrees. Within a short amount of time, the water will indeed evaporate. Heat it to boiling, and it will evaporate faster, thats all.
#37
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iTrader: (3)
i have a sea ray cruiser with a pair of 454s.my normal cruising rpm is 1700 to 1900 rpm.the water temp is around 150 deg and the oil never gets to 175 deg.their has never been any moisture in the oil so the theory of oil needing to be at 212 deg to boil off moisture can,t be true.it IS a myth that oil needs to be at 212 to rid itself of moisture.these engines come from merc with 140 deg water t-stats and it has run that way since 1990.i suspect mercury marine has done plenty of testing before they sold thousands of these engine packages and all came with a warranty.i just laugh every time someone tells me the oil must be 212 deg or above to remove water from the oil.
#38
Registered
Well just to keep you guys updated. I THINK I bought the 185 degree stat. I can't really remember!!!!! Got the oil up to 180 degrees after about 40-45 miles at 3500. I'm on the right track. I guess I'll go with a warmer thermostat when I get the chance and the money. Much much less "cheese" in the oil. Got some oil blowing out the dip stick. Need to do a leak down test. Breathers aren't obstructed. Only happens after wide open throttle run. We will see. One thing at a time. Thanks for all the help
#39
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Thread Starter
Ez striped. The breathers have 5/8 hose going to them. They go up to the flame arrestor tho, not a separate tank. I put a spring on the dip stick to hold it in. It did just that!!! But oil still sneaks out. Only happens at wide open throttle. Boat only sees wide open for maximum 30-40 seconds at a time. I'm afraid to say but it runs a lot of boost at 5k rpm (10-12psi). At cruise it hits around 3 psi.
#40
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iTrader: (1)
And all this time I thought my wife turned up the bathroom to 212F to dry my towel for my next shower.