Spun Drive coupler (or whatever the proper name is)?
 

I was out testing props when all of the sudden i felt like one prop was no longer there. I checked, it was still there. I wasn't pulling hard so I doubt i spun the hub on a prop and this had me looking back to the coupler between the flywheel and the outdrive. It doesn't look all that hot and it is covered in tiny metal shavings. Looking at this pic it looks like I spun the splines out of the coupler...probably trashed the yoke on the u-joint...hopefully the yoke is made of stronger steel than the coupler and the coupler is designed to sacrafice itself sort of in the way a shear pin does. Having said this, I hope replacing the coupler does not involve replacing the complete housing.

SO here is what i believe is allowing the engine to rev w/o spinning the drive shaft.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]559121[/ATTACH]

I believe that when it comes to replacement parts from the drive side, I may need a new yoke, depending on how chewed up it is.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]559122[/ATTACH]

What i'm not getting a good understanding of is wat on the flysheel side of things I will need to replace?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]559123[/ATTACH]

Would I have to replace the whole back of the housing (part #1) or can what looks to be an insert in the housing be replaced (the rubber looking thing). Here you can possibly see this better, the picture is taken from a different angle on the port side engine (current issue is starboard).

[ATTACH=CONFIG]559124[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]559125[/ATTACH].

I had to chuckle when I was what looks to be a grease fitting, if the engine needs to be pulled to fix this, I wonder how often the coupler sees grease go into that fitting!?

Any insights on the flywheel side parts I may need, if i have the right drawing (HP450) it doesn't show details or they want the whole housing face replaced?

Thanks!

- scott -

I grease the coupler on mine every 20 hours. There are two fittings on the coupler.

If you are lucky it's just the coupler....around $400. However, the motor will need to come out to replace it. How's your motor alignment? Bad alignment is usually what takes out the coupler.

doesn't look like you have enough shaft engagement w/ the coupler.is this engine mounted to a stack bravo inner transom plate?

And sometimes soft transom.

Hows your transom????

[QUOTE=dcb;4479061]I grease the coupler on mine every 20 hours. There are two fittings on the coupler.

There is special grease just for the coupler. I had a long extension hose made and a dedicated grease gun just for this purpose. If you do this make sure you get a good quality (not Harbor Freight) grease coupler. Don't ask me how I know that

3 pointstar

response to questions above.

the boat is new to me, the engine alignment will be investigated during the repair of this, The possible cost in parts being $400, is this for a complete new housing? if so, it sounds like it is implied that a coupler cannot be installed in the existing housing. On the surface this seems a a bit odd, but that appears to be what the diagram shows (althougy it is not terribly clear, I wish the diagram had a perspective facing the coupler from the drives perspective).

Transome is the first thing that came to my mind as a possible cause, I expect to learn more about this when the engine is pulled.

I honestly do not know what kind of bravo inner transom plate is in play? but I would suspect it is the ones Active Thunder shipped with the boat back in 96'.

How the heck do you get the grease fitting on the coupler? I had a heck of a time just getting pictues of the coupler..and I didn't even see the second grease fitting (but I also was not looking for it). Would lack of grease potentially cause this failure, seems not since the yoke to the drive app is probably worn down and that would imply the coupler is not frozen, correct?

If the yoke/shaft does not appear to be far enough inthe coupler, does that look to be true for both couplers?

LOL, I just learned of harbor freight a few weeks ago, already everything I have picked up has failed or been a disapointment.

Is the proper grease a aluminum-complex grease or a lithium based grease?

Thank-you!

Mercury has a spline grease.

Coupler is as big around as your flywheel.

The yoke never seems to get hurt, the coupler is rubber/aluminum and goes first.

.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/23/y3ubaja7.jpg

http://hooniverse.com/wp-content/upl...012/09/HF2.jpg

It is normal to see exposed spline on the driveshaft when fully inserted into the coupler. Zerks are nice if you can reach them, but I still prefer to pull the drive to grease the driveshaft splines. Gives you a chance to inspect the coupler splines for wear, check alignment, check the gimbal bearing and make sure you get it properly greased, check for oil or water leaks, grease the u-joints if they are serviceable, etc.

The bellhousing diagram you have pictured is for a inboard with transmission , not for Bravo application. Go to BAM Marine website for a easy to navigate parts section. Coupler will be listed as part of crankshaft assembly.(not in bellhousing section). Good Luck!!!

All you should need is a new coupler. A lack of grease will cause the splines on the coupler to fail. The input shaft from the drive should be fine.

Merc Spline Grease has been discontinued.

Their new Extreme Grease covers many more applications including splines:

What am I going to do with my 3 boat grease guns, lol, when I'm out of each. :smile:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxMj...Wm!~~60_12.JPG

If you have time look back thru the archives about me having a problem getting the harbor freight grease coupling off the zerk fitting. I had to remove more parts than I wanted to just to try and get some leverage to pry it off. I believe it was a 5 or 6 Advil engagement. Now I have a NAPA adjustable fitting that works just perfect

3 pointstar

You can't catch a break with this boat can you....:picard1:

Merc went to one grease now that does double duty as SB posted ------ a couple of years ago - they had 4 different greases to use in 4 different areas. ie gimbal bearing / u joint then - couple / spline grease then - 2 4 C and then -- special 101 grease and so on. Special 101 grease was one of my favorite greases for many things.

More info ----- Weak and or rotted transom and or rotted or weak stringers causes this as well for knocking out couplers.

Next the inter transom mount set up wrong with springs or without springs will knock out your coupler in hurry. I have posted this and the Merc service Bulletin a bunch of times up here for the newer inner transom mount from many years ago. Many install it wrong.

Lol I have a tube of spline grease that will last the rest of my life.

LOL. I remembered. That was brutal for you. Painfully funny for others ?

Here it is: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/d...rget-help.html

Yea, the boat is causing me some grief but I knew it would going into it, it was part of the deal I made w/ myself and I am doing a pretty good job of keeping a positive attitude (although the first hour after something bustsit hurts until I get over it, good thing I am old an tend to forget things :-) ) Unfortunately the work I want done on my other boat will take some time is it has been declared a winter project which is why I am using the AT.

I potentially now have a tough decision to make, when the engine comes out I will have my first look at the core of the transom. Is there a good way to take a deeper look into it's condition? I know sound is reasonable method, but is there any value in drilling small holes into it to take a closer look. If the transom looks like it should no longer be used, I guess I'll stop this repair and start looking into de-rigging it in preparation of getting the transom fixed...I can fix this coupler after the transom work. One thing I need is a location to store parts as I de-rig, I guess I can rent a storage locker for this, but that still leaves me with no work space. Can a lift large enough to get the engine out of the boat generally be rented. I guess I should also start building something to hold the drives. I've been looking for a work space to do all of this work that has room for the boat and it's parts, i'v had a craigs list ad running for about a month now and the only bite I have had is someone wanting to join up on renting space because he has boat work to do this winter. I also have another boat I want to do some work on. Any thoughts on where/how I might find a space, ideally I can find a low winter use barn or something.

You really ****ed yourself when you bought this thing. Didn`t everyone warn you to stay away? You can lead a horse to water but you ... know the rest.
I can tell you this is just the beginning. I say cut your losses and scrap that thing before you`re in too deep. Which may be just about now.

I believe this is the coupler you need:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Mercury-...-/320764076089

Here is a breakdown:

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/s.../31311/2049/15

anything can be fixed! take it out and check transom , then decide if you go forward or sell like this!

https://www.google.com/search?q=brav...w=1366&bih=667

I built a longer spine and boom for a regular engine hoist/cherry picker when I had to pull mine. It worked, but I dismantled it when I was finished, if I hadn't had a very, very level floor to use it on it would have been even more sketchy than it already was. I was also very, very lucky when I redid mine that I had a very generous family member that gave me free reign of his building for about two years.

No offense, but it sounds like you have a lot of irons in the fire and may want to give some serious consideration into punting this thing...especially without a shop to work on it. You are going to be throwing good money after bad, paying for storage, parts, etc; the little things really nickle and dime you to death on a rebuild before you know it.

Cannot imagine working in a barn during a Minnesota winter

He knew it had a soft transom when he bought it.

If you are serious about fixing the problems, rent a forklift for a weekend, pull the engine and drill some test holes in the transom while catching the chips to see if it's rotted. At least you will know where you stand on it, then weigh in you're options and move forward or back out if its a losing proposition.

The OP ------ I will throw this out there. You call me tomorrow, I will give you an option that will solely benefit your end hugely. I have questions for you first of all. I feel a bit bad for what you are going through. I see this a lot from new boaters. I have my reasons for throwing this out there. No big deal if you do not want to make the call. I have nothing to gain here on my end. I do recommend possible not doing anything with the boat just yet nor throwing any $$$ until maybe after the call.

8 one seven
Six five 8
7 7 two one.


If no answer leave message and call back info and times. You have nothing to lose period.

Thanks BUP, I value your perspective. I'll give you a call tomorrow.

Well we have made a lot of conversation time with this one. Will have to say at first I thought maybe Scott was going to be odd or way off base with a lot of his thinking. Actually the guy seems to be pretty darn cool.

So to fill in most about this,

My idea is ---- The best solution for him is to have a full complete after the boat has been bought MARINE INSPECTION by someone that is pretty good about doing marine detective work for all mechanical and structural systems. I offered to fly in at some point / timeframe in Oct 2016. I told him do not spend another dime on anything nor pay anyone at this point. It would be very wise to make a running list of what I find and do the numbers, then make the final decision as for the next move.

Please keep in mind. I work on marine apps for a living. This will be a one time almost free of charge situation for the year 2016 - the payment for my services is one darn great pizza and bottle water for the day. I will fly in and need pick up to and from the boat with some applicable tools. Drives will be pulled - gear oil drained, pressure test the drives as well - check all related and moving forward with those checks ---- plus engine detailed looked at just for starters.

He already knows he needs a transom and possible stringers at the very least. He has received a price to get the transom and stringer(s) replaced by a member up here. Good choice if he goes that route. Glass Dave very honest guy and surely will not cut any corners with all that work. After the fact I am wanting to report the list of what I find.

I already told Scott he should move on from this boat but he wants to continue with the inspection - like I said he has nothing else to lose by doing so. But he needs at this point to stop and stop putting money into the boat until we see how bad or not things are. Just saying

I get the impression Scott is committed to the boat and determined to see the project through. Sounds like he's now getting excellent advice and If I were a betting man, I'd put down a bundle to say he's going all the way!

Some time before next summer, he'll have a very nice AT with fresh motors and drives, a new transom and probably a new interior and paint job too!!

Scott, you will love your boat, it will be awesome and you'll never get back what you've spent. Welcome to the real world of go-fast boats. :):)

RR

That is VERY generous of you BUP.

Thanks ^^^^^^^^^ I think I will do this once a year for someone who is really having a hard time with their fairly new bought used boat. The sportboat market is getting smaller especially when things like this take place. Sometimes frustration likes this makes the boat owner completely gets out of boating. We don't need that.

18V cordless hammer. LMFAO

BUP, your a class act and glad to see you giving a helping hand to a member just trying to make a bad boat work. May you find some good news for him and may good things come your way for all your gracious actions on and through this forum

Scott I hope you realize you have just been thrown a life line I hope you grab it and listen to EVERTHING BUP has to say.

BUP, that is going above and beyond....that is amazing.

I couldn't agree more.

Mid Oct is my plan to get up hopefully not freezing time of the year in the 10K lake state. Burrrrrrr I hope not.

Hi All -

No doubt John is a class act and I am grateful for the offer John has extended. I know I will not like some of the things he has to say, but I do hope he has some good things to say too ;-) ....enough so that I can purchase a water circulation pump from him :-)

I've also come to realize that I have some real thinking to do, now and then again in Oct. If in posts I have come across as contemplating "throwing in the towel" I do admit to briefly wondering "what next" with respect to the next broken component, but then I remind myself that I knew this would be the case before getting into this and that there were going to be project ahead for some time and I am generally happy I am taking on all of this work so far and learning some skills.

I apologize for not getting back to this thread sooner, work has been kicking my butt, I took the opportunity away from the boat to do more "family things" and I have been laying a bit low on the activity board because since speaking w/ John I am not taking on any new issues (so I have no new questions to ask). I did however have an opportunity to briefly pull the AT out of the water and give it a quick HCL bath, the boat looks so much more civilized now! Isn't she pretty? :-)

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]559425[/ATTACH]SO, to keep myself busy & out of trouble, I brought the good old Monza home


and after spending weeks this summer bottom sanding all the way to the glass, I'm going to start applying at least 3 coats of petit protect and this will be covered with at least 2 coats of Petit vivid.
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There are a couple other small things that need to happen there and then it gets set aside for a winter project of swapping out the
old VP 180 drive for a beefier VP duoprop. My engine was simply creaming the vp180 drive busting shear pins and twisting gear shafts and I also wanted the advantages of a duo on this boat vs. max speed (but if i recall I got the c7 prop and although VP doesn't disclose pitch etc., I am told this is about a 28 pitch).

If by chance the AT or some other "replacement" boat is not available right away next spring/summer, the monza is a fun ride and i'll toss it in the water, however you do get moved around quite a bit in this little thing, but it will get me on the water next summer so I can be patient and not rush into anything. LOL - It just dawned on me that by next summer my 6 month puppy will likely be ~ 210lb and will completely fill the back bench. Heck, he'll probably get the boat's nose way up in the air and I may never get on plane :-)

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Again, huge thanks to John and others that have taken time to assist me. I am a lucky guy!

Thanks!

- scott -

p.s. John - Just let me know what you need from me and when you need it!

I already love the AT, it fits like your most comfortable shirt.