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Cam and valvetrain longevity....??? low duration high lift...

Old 09-26-2016, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL View Post
My head guys does say with lots of power ( high cylinder pressures )aluminum heads will "shimmy" and even lift slightly causing issues associated with movement.
His recommendation to solve that particular issue in endurance was Iron heads.

I found an even easier way to stabilize my aluminum heads, just keep the power to a minimum........ works great for meeee
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Old 09-26-2016, 05:56 PM
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I almost pulled the trigger on the Voodoo 250/255 .636/.663 112lsa endurance grind.. $335 on a billet core, can`t beat that. I decided it wasn`t worth it over my 651 (244/256 .632)

Some nice results on the dyno sym thou
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Old 09-26-2016, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Black Baja View Post
After a season on a new set of aluminum heads we have found it very beneficial to pull the heads and do a valve job. Even with very mild cams it seems as though things move around. After the first go round things seem to settle down and be good to go for awhile... If I was in your shoes I would just yank them and go through them. If you have mls gaskets don't hesitate to re-use.

I think maybe this has been posted before in another thread (?)......found it interesting though what he says at the 4:08 mark. Sounds familiar.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-7lgXGani4
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Old 09-26-2016, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rvander68 View Post
I think maybe this has been posted before in another thread (?)......found it interesting though what he says at the 4:08 mark. Sounds familiar.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-7lgXGani4
Yeah we buy most of our heads bare and they are setup for the application. After a season of abuse things move around as I stated in previous posts.
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Old 09-26-2016, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rvander68 View Post
I think maybe this has been posted before in another thread (?)......found it interesting though what he says at the 4:08 mark. Sounds familiar.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-7lgXGani4
That's just life in the big city! Actually very informative, for me at least.
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:00 PM
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I love my new Engine Quest Iron heads. After replacing my old aluminum darts with them, my engines did not go into a detonation frenzy due to chamber temperatures, my boat didnt do a back flip from the extra 150 lbs on the stern. Nobody has walked past the dock and laughed at me for no longer having "aluminum" heads, as if I am less of a high performance boater with iron castings.

I do not plan to "compensate" for my iron heads, by reducing boost levels, changing octane levels, timing , cam parameters, or any of that due to my heads being cast iron instead of cast aluminum.
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rvander68 View Post
I think maybe this has been posted before in another thread (?)......found it interesting though what he says at the 4:08 mark. Sounds familiar.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-7lgXGani4
As soon as I heard his voice I knew who it was. He has a lot of videos loaded with good info the average joe wouldn't have a clue. Also does a good job covering all the different heads we use, good, bad indifferent. Amazing how many assembled heads purchased ready to be so called bolt on ready are scary. I'd never think about buying heads complete from even the top 3 companies without having gone through them.
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:09 PM
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Best reason for aluminum is being able to repair, besides that flow, and all the rest is the same... Oh and when you break your chit all the time like me it's easier to lift tnem in the boat!!! Hahah
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER View Post
I love my new Engine Quest Iron heads. After replacing my old aluminum darts with them, my engines did not go into a detonation frenzy due to chamber temperatures, my boat didnt do a back flip from the extra 150 lbs on the stern. Nobody has walked past the dock and laughed at me for no longer having "aluminum" heads, as if I am less of a high performance boater with iron castings.

I do not plan to "compensate" for my iron heads, by reducing boost levels, changing octane levels, timing , cam parameters, or any of that due to my heads being cast iron instead of cast aluminum.
My motors are 9.5:1 iron heads 170-180 block temps run on 89 octane. The only advantage I see with aluminum is if you own a Fountain. Too much weight in the stern and it may sink.
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by getrdunn View Post
As soon as I heard his voice I knew who it was. He has a lot of videos loaded with good info the average joe wouldn't have a clue. Also does a good job covering all the different heads we use, good, bad indifferent. Amazing how many assembled heads purchased ready to be so called bolt on ready are scary. I'd never think about buying heads complete from even the top 3 companies without having gone through them.
I remember i posted one of his videos , that one in particular i believe, in regards to "out of the box heads". I immediately got a phone call from Bob M. I got filled in about how that guy is a complete moron. I then recieved an earful about how great afr's heads are, their manufacturing techniques, and how they are superior to brands like dart, and brodix.

I still stand behind , getting cylinder heads bare, and going thru them. The simple mistake of recieving a set of afr heads as full force tim did, ready to bolt on for a mild hyd roller engine, only to accidently stumble on the fact, they had solid roller springs with over 750lbs or whatever open pressure. We can talk about fancy valve seat cutters, or whatever equipment used, but at the end of the day, something as simple as installing the proper spring, was overlooked.
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