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-   -   Cam and valvetrain longevity....??? low duration high lift... (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/341258-cam-valvetrain-longevity-low-duration-high-lift.html)

Full Force 10-01-2016 08:42 PM

I hear ya on the carb thing, learning more since 2014 also.. I am much smarter now and educated and continue to learn, you know I will do what I can to
Maximize this time, without re inventing wheel ...I trust my buddy's ability to come up with cam specs per cylinder head flow and will address all that when that time comes...hoping to Dyno in Jan or so... With you and Ryan, if that happens I am gonna schedule a 3-4 day trip to really play with things more, last time was a "let's see what you have session" as you know lets see how it goes this time!!!

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4487157)
You might go from 73.2, to 73.3! :poopoo:

I pretty much suggested a dominator from the get go on this build. That thread was a whole nother chit show of arguing. You said no way, because you couldn't fit it. Now, you're willing to find room, to fit a spacer under your current carb, and worried your carb is too small?! lol :angry-smiley-038:

I think this time around, you might be best to do your own engine development. What I mean is, taking advice from 30 different avenues, is not necessarily a bad thing, but at the end of the day, strapping the thing on a dyno, and trying out various carbs, various intakes, swapping exhaust, etc. Sometimes, what looks great on paper, doesn't always work.

You know Ryan Retter is flexible with you, and will work with you to try different things on the dyno, and won't nickel and dime you for the time. Theres no point in cutting up your hatch, if its a 10hp gain. Now, if you find a particular intake/carb combo, that nets you 25, 35, 40+hp , you may want to modify the hatch. Same thing with exhaust. You might find 10hp from switching from your manifolds to a header setup, or you might find 50hp. That might sway you to looking into different exhaust, or keeping what you have. But, you gotta do the testing. What works on one guys engine, might not work on yours. BCK spent some time on fine tuning his intake/carb combo. He found what , like 25hp doing so? Thats not a bad gain at all.

We have enough of us here, that I am sure someone would be willing to loan out an intake, a carb, maybe even some spacers, etc, to try .


SB 10-01-2016 08:45 PM

p92 !

getrdunn 10-01-2016 09:17 PM


Originally Posted by Black Baja (Post 4487082)
That cam is too small. Need mid 250's on intake high 250's exhaust 109 lsa cam needs to go in 10 degrees advanced. Something along those line in mid 5xx" motors with 320range heads will be in the 725-750hp range a tic over 6,000 rpm's with compression in 9.5:1 range. They really make a bunch more torque if you put a dome piston in them around 10.3:1

This type of cam will revert h2o

So assuming cam has no advance ground into based on the duration numbers you mentioned to install at 10 deg advanced. I see where larger CI engines absorbs duration say for instance from a 454 to a 540 or larger. So with that said would it also be correct to say comparing to 572 builds with different stroke combos the longer stroke build would have lower peak hp rpm than that of the shorter stroke. But back to your original comment I'd guess with the duration you mentioned based on a 540 you'd be looking at approximately 7k peak rpm + or -? If advancing 1 deg = 100 rpm to bring it in around 6k.

Interesting stuff.

Baja Rooster 10-01-2016 09:32 PM


Originally Posted by SB (Post 4487162)
p92 !

Just a day or two ago I was aiming for 70 yet we all hung out in 69 forever.

HaxbySpeed 10-01-2016 10:26 PM


Originally Posted by getrdunn (Post 4487167)
So assuming cam has no advance ground into based on the duration numbers you mentioned to install at 10 deg advanced. I see where larger CI engines absorbs duration say for instance from a 454 to a 540 or larger. So with that said would it also be correct to say comparing to 572 builds with different stroke combos the longer stroke build would have lower peak hp rpm than that of the shorter stroke. But back to your original comment I'd guess with the duration you mentioned based on a 540 you'd be looking at approximately 7k peak rpm + or -? If advancing 1 deg = 100 rpm to bring it in around 6k.

Interesting stuff.

Personally I feel if you need to advance a cam 10 degrees to get optimal performance then it's too big for the application. Why not just pick the right events when you order the cam, or find something closer off the shelf?

getrdunn 10-01-2016 10:27 PM


Originally Posted by Full Force (Post 4487160)
Pulled mesh out last year haha only have 2 layers you see right through

Very noticeable in your pics you posted of clearance concerns. Lol. Caught it right away.

Black Baja 10-01-2016 10:31 PM


Originally Posted by getrdunn (Post 4487167)
So assuming cam has no advance ground into based on the duration numbers you mentioned to install at 10 deg advanced. I see where larger CI engines absorbs duration say for instance from a 454 to a 540 or larger. So with that said would it also be correct to say comparing to 572 builds with different stroke combos the longer stroke build would have lower peak hp rpm than that of the shorter stroke. But back to your original comment I'd guess with the duration you mentioned based on a 540 you'd be looking at approximately 7k peak rpm + or -? If advancing 1 deg = 100 rpm to bring it in around 6k.

Interesting stuff.

A 540-565 with that a cam like that will Peter out right about 62-6300 rpm. Unless you have a restriction. We've ran this combination with 4150 carbs and they still make the numbers. With the ICL around 105 the motor will have a torque curve like a 4x4 from 3,000 rpm up and make a tick under 700ft lbs of torque. With the larger cubic inch stuff you can add some duration back the ICL up and split the lobes more because they naturally make more cylinder pressure. It's really hard to get RPM out of the Big Cubic inch stuff cause you really start running out of cylinder head intake and Carb. With a 632 and a conventional head you end up with a cam with high 280's 305 115-116 lsa and you'll be lucky if it will spin to 7,000 rpm. Buying heads 100% bare no seats no valve guides just a raw head helps. Cause then you can roll the valve angle a few degrees move the combustion chamber and angle mill the piss out of it. Work on getting the intake valve away from the cylinder wall by drilling the head bolt holes where they should be. These are the types of things involved with large motors and trying to make the big numbers. It's a lot more to it than buying a pair of CNC head and bolting them on the motor.

Panther 10-01-2016 10:57 PM

Black Baja, what ever happened to the Grumpy heads I sold you a few years ago?

How come we haven't seen each other on the water yet? Or maybe we have and I didn't out 2&2 together? Where do you usually run too?

Black Baja 10-01-2016 11:17 PM


Originally Posted by Panther (Post 4487188)
Black Baja, what ever happened to the Grumpy heads I sold you a few years ago?

How come we haven't seen each other on the water yet? Or maybe we have and I didn't out 2&2 together? Where do you usually run too?

We keept our Fountain in Middle river on a lift. We were out every weekend. Pretty much rafted up at Still Pond every Saturday and Sunday. Gave the heads to a friend of mine who never used them. I have two more sets of those same heads if you know anyone that needs heads.

Rookie 10-02-2016 12:47 AM


Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4487107)
Wonder if that would put any stress on the lifter tie bars? know a few guys who broke some lifter tie bars with bobs cams. Never really thought about that. [/I]


Originally Posted by dunnitagain (Post 4487093)
Oh hell yes it will break tie bars.

What about breaking pushrod guides? I've snapped 3 since...


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