I do believe I got bit by my purchase...
#111
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I forgot what exhaust you are using, but I couldn't recommend a wideband monitor enough. Even after you get things tuned in you can keep an eye on it should something go amiss. I have a QF850 and pretty happy with it, but for not much more you can get the Holley Sniper FI. Have you considered that route?
Last edited by 92cobalt243; 06-02-2017 at 11:18 PM.
#113
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From: SF Bay Area
Not USCG approved as of now, even though the sum of the parts seem safer than a bucket full of fuel on top of the motor, lol.
This was a good little Q&A with Holley.
Converting Marine Engines to EFI | Holley EFI University | General Studies
This was a good little Q&A with Holley.
Converting Marine Engines to EFI | Holley EFI University | General Studies
#114
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I Guess I need to remember my goals here and stay on track...if the boat ran as great as it did except for that 4K misfire (if that's what it really was)...I would be thrilled.
side note/question: when looking at (even) Holley 's site and formula for sizing carbs, consider 502 cubes & max rpm of 5k...the general recommendation is <700 cfm. Why even consider 850 cfm? Sure wish I had made the effort to run it on the stand after re-marinizing the long block, but that was part of my thinking in staying somewhat stockish
and reliable. I would hate to throw on a $700 QF and find out it's something like a 25 year old fuel pump, or an ignition thing. I suppose that would rear its head in other scenarios. If it is in fact a need to calibrate (kit is $65) , which mode would I be trying to richen (power mode or cruise mode)? The misfire occurred by carefully inching up the rpm). I never even tried jamming throttle through that power band...just tapping to increase. I can see myself doing both the recalibrate attempt and ultimately replacing the carb (just sayin'). Once again thanks for everybody's info, I'm learning. Dave
side note/question: when looking at (even) Holley 's site and formula for sizing carbs, consider 502 cubes & max rpm of 5k...the general recommendation is <700 cfm. Why even consider 850 cfm? Sure wish I had made the effort to run it on the stand after re-marinizing the long block, but that was part of my thinking in staying somewhat stockish
and reliable. I would hate to throw on a $700 QF and find out it's something like a 25 year old fuel pump, or an ignition thing. I suppose that would rear its head in other scenarios. If it is in fact a need to calibrate (kit is $65) , which mode would I be trying to richen (power mode or cruise mode)? The misfire occurred by carefully inching up the rpm). I never even tried jamming throttle through that power band...just tapping to increase. I can see myself doing both the recalibrate attempt and ultimately replacing the carb (just sayin'). Once again thanks for everybody's info, I'm learning. Dave
Last edited by 92cobalt243; 06-03-2017 at 08:30 AM.
#116
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From: Toledo Oh
Remember when comparing cars to boats, a certain size might be fine on a car that sees 5000 rpm and or full throttle from traffic light to traffic light or the occasional blast down a back road.It sees that in a transient state. A boat motor may see that for miles, so it may just run at a steady state for a prolonged period of time what a car motor only occasionally sees. With carbs, valvetrain or anything else whats fine on a car motor may be marginal on a boat motor. Whats marginal on a car motor my be disastrous in a boat motor...
#117
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Alright already, I'm convinced. So Quick Fuel m-850? Will work well with the Edelbrock RPM AIR GAP?... and I'll place the order today and give you guys the weekend off...looks like I will I need some supporting parts...fuel line kit, and what about a fuel pressure gauge &/or regulator? Thanks
Last edited by 92cobalt243; 06-03-2017 at 11:53 AM.
#120
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From: westville, NJ



