I guess my posts regarding the daytona igntions, was that, i feel it is a setup that has something to offer over a standard ignition. The msd marine box, really offers nothing performance wise, or adjustability wise over a standard igntion. So if you wanted to spend money, i would spend it on something that can actually do something for the engine, rather than just a "hotter spark" claim.

If nothing else, why spend the money on an msd, have to buy a separate coil, and distributor? Buy the Daytona kit, modify your rotor and be done. All in one package ready to go, and your not using your original ignition to trigger a points like signal to an overrated featureless ignition amplifier.

Funny if I could use my new pertronix I had for original NA builds I'd use them in a heartbeat. I could careless about all the gadgets and bling. Just wanna go out and run but with new current sc builds I certainly don't want to go out and have a melt down either so this Daytona route looks tits. I hope to just get set up and then hands off.

the worst combination for a msd box seemed to be a full size (non reduction gear) starter and a less than hot battery. The spike caused when yo let go the key can kill the box.

MSD knew this (or at least the tech I knew back in the day did) He recomended the msd radio noise suppressor in line with the hot wire to the box. It is just a big capacitor which has the effect of suppressing a voltage spike, (obviously overkill for radio noise).

That solved mine and my friends problems with msd red boxes. I still use them for every after market ignition even though the problem should not be so great with the high torque reduction gear starters that we have now.

this is the part https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8830

My Crane boxes came with the big capacitors right in the box. I was debating whether to use them with the Daytona boxes.

I ran the noise suppressors for 6 years with my MSD systems and still had 3 boxes die, I'm sure it helps, but it didn't help me much. I would definitely go Daytona if you're sticking with a carb. Their pro-billet distributors are a petri dish on the inside too - I religiously would change my caps and rotors and wanted to throw up every year I inspected them.

The in gear/out of gear idle speed vs. timing control not having a consistent air/fuel ratio (Mild Thunder brought up earlier) on a big cubic inch/big cam naturally aspirated engine can get pretty annoying. You might optimize for a hot idle, but then it's not quite right at a cold idle (lean). I always had it tuned in the sweet spot, but still noticed AFR's were jacked up at one point or another depending on all of those variables.

I finally broke down a few years ago and went Holley HP multiport EFI. I ran MSD with that system for the first year (with the Holley controlling timing), then eliminated the MSD and went coil packs 2 years ago... right away you'll have solid commanded Air fuel ratio, way cleaner idle, but I was surprised at how much better it idled with coil packs vs. MSD. I also added knock protection and safeguards that help keep my eyes on the water. The amount of control and flexibility you get with that system is endless, pretty much if you can think of it, you can do it (especially with the v4 updates).

Damn you guys and this forum... now I'm thinking of buying these and benching my DUI's and 6M boxes. I've fought the rich idle thing for years trying a multitude of things. I like hearing all the good results with these and options it allows. Joe brought up a great point I hadn't thought of with the slow speed night cruising loading the motors down.

Send your carbs to Norm, he will get them dialed in and drive you crazy in the process.

I did a few months ago. He said try it with the new Pistons (more compression) and call back if that didn't help. He's a ton of knowledge for sure

go efi. you won't regret it.

individual fuel and spark trims. CNP ignition. in and out of gear fuel tuning. Full data logging. The list goes on.