I don't really know how to answer this statement. Needless to say we are surely getting off topic, which is typical on any and all oil threads. No where in my post was there any mention of massive amounts of zddp, which by the way is more than zinc content. Aside from the fact that there are more than just hydraulic roller cam engines in the world zddp does more than just protect cam lobes and lifters..........it protects wear in any metal to metal contact.

you posted that rotella has lowered the zddp content in their oil,that was my reason for posting about the need for tons of zddp.all oil has zddp,racing oil not intended for production cars with cat converters can,t be used because it messes up the converter and with hyd roller lifters the oil with less zddp is still lubricating perfectly fine.on another note,how many engines use a flat tappet cam these days?not many that i am aware of.none of the major auto makers have used a flat tappet cam for years.i know one of the diesel truck engine makers still uses a flat tappet cam but i don,t remember who it is.you are correct when you say these oil threads get off track,i think that is because of all the different opinions about all the oils of today.

I know what you are saying. I was just trying to inform people that today's Rotella is not what it was a year or so ago. The oil spec's a few years ago when the API rating was "SM" was around 1200-1400 parts per million of zinc........that zinc content by the way never hurt the catalytic converter's. Anyway, the change to the current API rating "SN" dropped that to around 600-800 ppm. That's all I was referring to. Not an excessive amount of zinc. Racing oils are around 1800+ ppm. The higher zinc content is a good thing. Your engine likes it! All this being said what gets me going is the money comment. Trust me, I am on a shoe string budget with my boat. But, if I have just spent $5 or 6K on a freshen up I'm not concerned with saving $20 on the oil.

Is there break in oil that you could put 20 hours on before dumping it ?

Wheres Borgie when you need him

Driven racing has an excellent tech line you can email or call, their customer service exceeded my expectations which earned them my business.

I was under the impression that "break in" oil was less slippery, or not as good at protecting the engine from wear, it actually helps speed up wear to aid in proper break in. I'm no Borgie but if we are discussing break in oil let's hear what everyone uses and WHY you use it.

That's funny the guy at the pri said its the same oil as the continues service oil . lol they relabeled a lot of it..

Walmart supertech 20w50 when mine were fresh. After dyno, drained oil, replaced filter, went boating

i think break in oil means different things to different people,hear is my take on it.i like a thinner oil for initial start on any engine with hyd roller lifters[that is what most of the engines i build use].i like to use conventional oil vs synthetic to help seat the rings.i run the engine for roughly 15 to 20 minutes,then i drain the oil and change the filter,now the engine is ready for whatever oil i want to use in it.my reason for the short run time on the oil is the fact that the initial run will put small amounts of dirt and metal burrs from the build in the oil and end up in the filter,unless you are assembling in a surgery ward their will be some dust in the air and it will end up inside the engine.could you leave this oil in the engine and run it for 20 hours,sure but why?it the long run the oil&filter is the cheepest thing you put in the engine.this is my take on the subject,it works for me but it is not gospil,in other words if you have a different idea by all means do what works for you!

I was looking for specifics from someone who builds engines like you, thanks