Brad Penn or champion break in oil. [ATTACH=CONFIG]566269[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]566270[/ATTACH]

I don't remember exactly where I learned this information but multiple sources have info about break in oil NOT recommend for use except during break in. Some say that it has less detergents to help seat the rings? Some claim it actually causes " more wear" to actually speed up the break in process? If it was the same oil as the continues service oil then it would have detergents? I'm not claiming to be an expert, I'm simply contributing to this thread so we can all learn about break in oil. Why do many choose conventional over synthetic? Again I ask what is the point of running a different "break in oil" then what will be used normally? Mike T. Added he likes​ thinner oil, which makes logical sense to me. Hey maybe this entire break in oil is just another performance marketing strategy to make more profits! LOL!

On my motor build the builder uses Brad Penn. That's what I used to break it in, and now I run regular Brad Penn in it. Depending on how I'm going to run it depends on what viscosity I use. I'm no expert and couldn't afford to build the motor twice. I asked my builder what he wanted me to use and when to change it. How many hours before the first couple oil changes. Then I just followed his recommendations. I also didn't open it up for the first 10 hours. I just drove around at various rpms for lengths at a time. This way I verified everything was together correctly and seated before I opened it all the way up. My point is if you are using a a builder you trust. Ask them how they would do it and follow that. This way you can feel good that it was done to the experts standards

Only took 4 pages for someone to actually recommend a good break in oil

Most of it marketing if I remember brake in oil is the hot rod oil. I will check into that. Biggest thing to brake in is a flat tappet camshaft that's when I would spend the money on all the good stuff.

on break in, always been told no synthetics, I to had been using rotella, have a friend who races promod with a 903 sonny's, uses it..even I thought that was weird. I had a issue a while back pulled my procharged 509 down, after 4-5 seasons, used rotella only, found about 1" of thisk sludge in the bottom of the pan(had nothing to do with pulling down) That bothered me posted about it, but to be fair, we had run for 4 years with oil oil thermostat and oil temps always stayed very cold...did that cause this ?? never did come up with a answer for sure...

i hav seen a lot of black sludge in the bottom of the pan on engines that use racing oil with high contents of zddp,i have discovered that it is caused from the zddp breaking from suspension of the oil and laying in the bottom of the pan.these engines ran oil temps from 180 to 220 deg so it was not from running the oil to cold.

I'll bet the 'sludge' is moly. Does your oil or an additive you may use contain a lot of Moly ?

Only times I've seen this sludge is motors I've used flat tappets. The black goop you spread all over the cam lobes has a ton of moly.

It would be interesting to see what the detergent level was in these racing oils. Most racing oils have low detergent and a good slug of zinc because racing engines are torn down with some regularity. Im thinking that black sluge is solids that didn't stay in suspension due to lack of a strong detergent/dispersant package in the oil and settled to the lowest part of the motor.

What was the time on the oil before it was drained?

As of now, I still say Moly levels cause the sludge in bottom of pan.

Check out the huge amt some of these oils have, and others very little.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...=31224#p370884