Milkshake on rebuilt engine
#213
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From: iowa
didnt make it to the water today, and tomorrow we gotta pool party so will have to wait till one night this week after work for a water test, but its got close to 45 minutes run time now and so far so good.
#214
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From: iowa
Spent the whole day on the water. Went good for the most part
i had to tune my new quick fuel carb a little. Rear float was to high and floding it. No biggie and ran good after that
my audible alarm was sounding. Tracked it down to water temp. Gauge never went over 150 all day. I noticed my water psi changed as the alarm sounded. 10# when it was going off. No alarm =15#. Motor was never hot to touch anywhere.
my oil temp climbed to 225 after. 10 minute run at 3800-4100 rpm. Came right back down after i left off. Normal?
i had to tune my new quick fuel carb a little. Rear float was to high and floding it. No biggie and ran good after that
my audible alarm was sounding. Tracked it down to water temp. Gauge never went over 150 all day. I noticed my water psi changed as the alarm sounded. 10# when it was going off. No alarm =15#. Motor was never hot to touch anywhere.
my oil temp climbed to 225 after. 10 minute run at 3800-4100 rpm. Came right back down after i left off. Normal?
#215
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From: westville, NJ
there are 2 temp senders. one for alarm and one for the gauge. your pressure is dropping, mebbe the alarm sender is in a location that loses water and gets a shot of steam. OK, switch sending unit locations. and once again, man am I glad current issue has nothing to do with the title of this thread...
#216
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From: iowa
I think your right on the steam theory but what confuses me is both senders are in the front of the intake manifold. One each side of the thermostat. I wouldnt think swaping em would change anything.
#217
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From: westville, NJ
some temp senders don't read hot without water. they somehow don't see hot steam at all. you are running a crossover? rebuild the raw water pump, and flush and check entire incoming water circuit. this is what circ pumps are for, but you don't have one. slight drop in psi with circ pump wont starve parts of the engine of coolant.
#218
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From: iowa
Cross over with bypass.
Ive flushed every hose. Oil cooler, fitting, newer impeller, plenty of water out the exhaust
i have a 160 thermostat with 3 small holes drilled in it. Think a 140 thermostat would help?
Ive flushed every hose. Oil cooler, fitting, newer impeller, plenty of water out the exhaust
i have a 160 thermostat with 3 small holes drilled in it. Think a 140 thermostat would help?
#219
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From: westville, NJ
water pressure fluctuation. where is the pressure gauge? in engine, or before engine. have you checked the fitting where water comes thru the hull? it is the smallest dia part of water sys in the first place.
#220
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From: iowa
Water psi is taken on the front of the intake same place as the gauge sending unit. Sender for the alarm is also front of the intake on the opposite side of thermostat
i know hoses/oil cooler are fine as i checked everything when the motor was out.
Im pretty sure i checked the transom fitting too last year and it was fine. (Didnt do this before engine rebuild)
i ordered a 140 degree thermostat since that is what was originally in it and al i could find was a 160 last saturday
seems odd that gauge reads perfect at 150 even at higher rpms but alarm is sounding when i would think they are each getting even water flow at all times
wonder if i am sucking air somewhere.
i know hoses/oil cooler are fine as i checked everything when the motor was out.
Im pretty sure i checked the transom fitting too last year and it was fine. (Didnt do this before engine rebuild)
i ordered a 140 degree thermostat since that is what was originally in it and al i could find was a 160 last saturday
seems odd that gauge reads perfect at 150 even at higher rpms but alarm is sounding when i would think they are each getting even water flow at all times
wonder if i am sucking air somewhere.


