You said that there was almost no oil in the engine. Sounds to me like you got a lot of water in the engine and when the oil went above 212* it boiled out of every point available including the dip stick - that is why the engine was almost empty.

Does the engine have the correct Intake Gaskets, I am guessing one failed and dumped lots of water fast into the oil pan,, I had it happen 3 years ago, the engine builder used Gen.6 gaskets in my Mark 4 engines ,,very easy to see when intake was removed.

Called it a night. Put compressed air to it. Hard to say but kinda sounded like Air hissing in the valley.

Also pulled all the plugs, all 8 looked fine to me. No noticable difference in any of them.

There is still oil/water in the pan. Its just not draining through the hose. Ill try tomorrow to remove the hose from the pan but not sure i can reach it

my builder called and is going to try to stop by tomorrow. I havnt yanked the intake yet in case he wanted to try to run the motor

couple side notes for what its worth.

motor has less then 4 hrs run time
oil temp has never gone over 220 (150 in the 10 minute run this happened)
water temp never over 190 (130 when this happened)
water psi never over 15#
40# oil psi when shut down
brand new pro max heads
there is absolutley no way this has a crack from heat or from freeze, im confindent in that

ill keep digging tomorrow. Fearing yhe worst but still hoping for the best

ive suspected intake gaskets all along. I know it has new promaxx heads and block is gen 4 bow tie block.

When this happened to 253's engine, he shut it down in time, but just barely. the bearings were starting to stick to the crank and I had to polish it. It doesn't take long with no lube. also, I spent hours cleaning the gelled sludge out of every recess of the engine. There is NO WAY you will clear it up by doing multiple oil changes. It would take 1000 of them. Do yourself a favor and tear it completely apart and clean it up, fix whatever went wrong, and save your summer.

At this point i just want to know what went wrong and why. If the builder doesnt stand behind it im done for the summer anyway.

Your ,Oil Coolers , Oil Pan,, & Oil Pump are now plugged with the thick ,cold slimy sludge, like Joe said it must be taken apart to clean everything.
I do not recommend adding new oil and starting that engine,,,,,it may/ will damage it badly.
It took me 2 days to get the heavy sticky sludge totally out of my engine bay area.
May as well get started fast to save some of the summer.
Good Luck

I agree. I just feel sick about this. I have less then 4 hrs on this motor.

Im teying to stay upbeat but im so sick of this thing im ready to be done with it

ill update later when i know for sure what i am dealing with

Hoping for a good outcome for you.

Padraig

Sorry to hear about the problems...frustrating- having been there myself a few times.
Any water in the cylinders? Cranking with the plugs out and watching for vapor/water may help identify if a leaky head gasket or exhaust manifold with leak into one of the cylinders. My experience with past failures is water from water intrusion would still be in the pan (ie 7qts)- a head gasket/head leak may pressurize the oil system and blow oil out of dipstick tube or in your case fuel pump vent- just an idea..
If water in cylinder a bit of diesel will displace the water and set on top of the rings with water floating on top- don't spill it in the bildge as then you'll have a mess that also stinks!
I've lost two engines after re-build due to cracked valley (SBC)- retorquing the head bolts is just too much stress for a thin valley resulting from cost out measures (reduced iron/weight depending on year) and some core shift- don't seem to hear of that for BBC.

Lane