I would get some dry and add ggb inserts to take away some of the bark.
But thats just me.

ok Tks for all your desk top help. They are a great TOOL. I'm not partial to any one cam. My last ones were custom ground by comp. I speak from 30 years of REAL world experience with boating and builds. By no means any professional however spent much time with them and trial and error.

OT ck with endeavour32 he still has a set of eickarts for sale. They would make decent improvement. Also the promaxx heads come in a 340 CNC version for not a lot more money. My 317's are professionally hand ported and out flowing the CNC version with a smaller runner. Whole other discussion when talking runner size etc. If your interested in the custom cams from comp I had in my 496's let me know. They make great power and were designed for 540 package with dart 310 however would work fine with promaxx. I may end up getting a ordering a couple more for my blower builds.

Next big question is your drive, Can't remember bravo one?

So the dyno programs showing it.five different cam tech lines are saying it. And in real life with a bigger cam he' experiencing it.But somehow its still wrong.
lmao.
Sorry I respect your opinion but this time you are incorrect.

What is it exactly I am wrong about?

I did see those eickarts and did some checking online about them and they do seem like a good choice.
I would probably get a bare set as my machinist/head guy worked for EPD back in the day and still likes to do his own porting and set up. Then I can buy the parts I want for the heads.
Yes my next big issue is an issue. I have a true King Cobra on my boat. It is a cone model and I have had many conversations with people that have had these. I feel that if I continue to drive like a sane person and not jump it I should be OK. I also purchased a complete spare with transom from a Tahoe only Donzi of the exact same year. I used Redline heavy shockproof in it this summer and just drained it and it looked brand new and no metal whatsoever. My plan is too just continue until something breaks or I buy a different boat. It worked flawlessly this summer and still trying to find the right prop.

I ask my girlfriend that everyday. Apparently it’s everything!



New exhaust is needed. No room for blower pulleys. Looks like a great time to go turbo!

I actually started to look into this. Can I use one of those old Gale Banks setups? I have seen quite a few of those but they are mostly on exposed motors. Won't the heat buildup in the bildge?

Somehow I ran across one of those set ups on eBay not long ago. If I recall Tom Earhart here in MI is/was a fan of those. He set several speed records. Like you mentioned heat would be a concern I would think yet ideal for a heavier single engine 30 ft boat. Btw just from years of boating just remember how much you enjoyed your boat this summer. We always want more power but the price we have to pay - pricey parts, down time etc can suck. Exhaust, heads and a cam that won't revert and easy on valvetrain would be my advice. I can't remember what intake but thought it was a dual plane.

I completely respect you having your own head porter work his magic and set up your heads.

How much does your boat weigh and is there a pad? Just curious if you ever got the boat down to lower elevation. My single 28 saber I had many years ago ran about 75 with slightly modified 502 but completely different hull and weight as well as at 700 ft sea level. Wonder what same boat with equivalent power runs below 1,000 ft. I know this is kinda non related to your future build changes but just interested. One thing to keep in mind if you pick up say 50hp with engine mods what would you anticipate for speed gain? 3 plus mph maybe??? Other variables come into factor but wanted to bring it up.

548 NA 675 hp is very respectable.

My vote? More cam, dry tails.

Idk what kind of mufflers you guys use, but when I close my gaffrig superflow mufflers , it is as quiet if not quieter than a stock 330 with wet exhaust. Fully Jacketed 4.5 stellings headers and tails. Icdedppl has custom made mufflers, with a similar design, he closes his and extremely quiet , blown 548's with SM Gen 3 full dry manifolds.

Theres lots of good sound elimination options these days. Changing cams to one that wont revert is an option too, likely you'll find you lost a good amount of power with a smaller camshaft in this build.

How do you keep the air cylinder (actuator) cool and not burning up seals in them ...
I have a set of the Graffrig mufflers w/ the air cylinder too that im goin to install on a CMI dry exhaust system
and was worried about them getting hot and the cylinders not working?