2 questions and the plan
12-09-2017, 11:02 AM
#11
ez, appreciate the advice
originally i wanted to use 4 gusseted angles, solid pedestals and the bravo driveline.
problem is stringer width, 34 inchs in between, the angles are only good for 31, there was a thread but the general concensus was
the pedestals should be close to the stringers rather hangin way out and having flex issues.
if the stringers were 31 i'd go pedestal and driveline in a heart beat.
if the boat needed engine stringers i'd go rail system and driveline, using the rails and mounts as a jig to bed the new
stringers in place.
but because of existing stringer width and the cradle/offshore mount the 496 needs up front, which is only 29 1/4 inches wide
(reason the angle is 5 x 5 x 1/2 ) the engine will go in with the addition of a mercury rear offshore plate and plus 12 inches forward
on an imco shaft.
originally i wanted to use 4 gusseted angles, solid pedestals and the bravo driveline.
problem is stringer width, 34 inchs in between, the angles are only good for 31, there was a thread but the general concensus was
the pedestals should be close to the stringers rather hangin way out and having flex issues.
if the stringers were 31 i'd go pedestal and driveline in a heart beat.
if the boat needed engine stringers i'd go rail system and driveline, using the rails and mounts as a jig to bed the new
stringers in place.
but because of existing stringer width and the cradle/offshore mount the 496 needs up front, which is only 29 1/4 inches wide
(reason the angle is 5 x 5 x 1/2 ) the engine will go in with the addition of a mercury rear offshore plate and plus 12 inches forward
on an imco shaft.
12-09-2017, 11:33 AM
#12
as far as the transom goes, i thought for sure there would be more feedback on that.
it was something that you know or suspect needs done but didn't want to admit it, or do it.
it's raining today, but it's gotta happen asap.
i made a jig to route out the transom and a jig to route out the patch for a nice fit.
basically the new patch will be just over 3/4 deep, and about the size of the yellow tinted glass, but only down to
the bottom of the original cutout, that way the bottom of the bravo transom assy is in virgin transom
the new glass extending out to where the transom is ground down to.
the original patch outline can be seen in the picture and it's seam is where the center 4 studs of the transom assembly are at.
the new patch will correct that.
new patch is 3 inches wider than the bravo cutout at it's widest point on both sides and 5 inches on top past original patch
patch is 3/4 7ply marine.
new glass, VE resin, 1 layer 1 1/2 oz. mat between transom and patch. 4 layers 1708 stepping down each layer 1/2 inch and taper off
the edges w/ the grinder so it looks nice.
i think it's enough, but i'm wide open and appreciate any suggestions, tips, advice.
it was something that you know or suspect needs done but didn't want to admit it, or do it.
it's raining today, but it's gotta happen asap.
i made a jig to route out the transom and a jig to route out the patch for a nice fit.
basically the new patch will be just over 3/4 deep, and about the size of the yellow tinted glass, but only down to
the bottom of the original cutout, that way the bottom of the bravo transom assy is in virgin transom
the new glass extending out to where the transom is ground down to.
the original patch outline can be seen in the picture and it's seam is where the center 4 studs of the transom assembly are at.
the new patch will correct that.
new patch is 3 inches wider than the bravo cutout at it's widest point on both sides and 5 inches on top past original patch
patch is 3/4 7ply marine.
new glass, VE resin, 1 layer 1 1/2 oz. mat between transom and patch. 4 layers 1708 stepping down each layer 1/2 inch and taper off
the edges w/ the grinder so it looks nice.
i think it's enough, but i'm wide open and appreciate any suggestions, tips, advice.
12-09-2017, 02:19 PM
#13
Registered
iTrader: (1)
as far as the transom goes, i thought for sure there would be more feedback on that.
it was something that you know or suspect needs done but didn't want to admit it, or do it.
it's raining today, but it's gotta happen asap.
i made a jig to route out the transom and a jig to route out the patch for a nice fit.
basically the new patch will be just over 3/4 deep, and about the size of the yellow tinted glass, but only down to
the bottom of the original cutout, that way the bottom of the bravo transom assy is in virgin transom
the new glass extending out to where the transom is ground down to.
the original patch outline can be seen in the picture and it's seam is where the center 4 studs of the transom assembly are at.
the new patch will correct that.
new patch is 3 inches wider than the bravo cutout at it's widest point on both sides and 5 inches on top past original patch
patch is 3/4 7ply marine.
new glass, VE resin, 1 layer 1 1/2 oz. mat between transom and patch. 4 layers 1708 stepping down each layer 1/2 inch and taper off
the edges w/ the grinder so it looks nice.
i think it's enough, but i'm wide open and appreciate any suggestions, tips, advice.
it was something that you know or suspect needs done but didn't want to admit it, or do it.
it's raining today, but it's gotta happen asap.
i made a jig to route out the transom and a jig to route out the patch for a nice fit.
basically the new patch will be just over 3/4 deep, and about the size of the yellow tinted glass, but only down to
the bottom of the original cutout, that way the bottom of the bravo transom assy is in virgin transom
the new glass extending out to where the transom is ground down to.
the original patch outline can be seen in the picture and it's seam is where the center 4 studs of the transom assembly are at.
the new patch will correct that.
new patch is 3 inches wider than the bravo cutout at it's widest point on both sides and 5 inches on top past original patch
patch is 3/4 7ply marine.
new glass, VE resin, 1 layer 1 1/2 oz. mat between transom and patch. 4 layers 1708 stepping down each layer 1/2 inch and taper off
the edges w/ the grinder so it looks nice.
i think it's enough, but i'm wide open and appreciate any suggestions, tips, advice.
something else you could consider since you are pushing the engine forward is to make a much wider inner transom plate so youre pushing on original transom meat so to speak. Will make the patched area alittle less stressed.
12-10-2017, 08:54 AM
#14
second person to suggest a custom transom plate. best way to do it in my opinion is after the engine and exhaust is installed
since they are not connected, and there are some unknowns as far as rigging with the engine moved forward.
a mock up plywood plate could be made with dowels in it all marked up with location length and thread pitch for studs to mount things
like power steering filter, hydraulic lines and the filter head and oil pump for the drive cooler.
but all this has to miss the exhaust the drive shaft and look like it was thought out.
since they are not connected, and there are some unknowns as far as rigging with the engine moved forward.
a mock up plywood plate could be made with dowels in it all marked up with location length and thread pitch for studs to mount things
like power steering filter, hydraulic lines and the filter head and oil pump for the drive cooler.
but all this has to miss the exhaust the drive shaft and look like it was thought out.
12-10-2017, 10:15 AM
#15
Registered
iTrader: (1)
second person to suggest a custom transom plate. best way to do it in my opinion is after the engine and exhaust is installed
since they are not connected, and there are some unknowns as far as rigging with the engine moved forward.
a mock up plywood plate could be made with dowels in it all marked up with location length and thread pitch for studs to mount things
like power steering filter, hydraulic lines and the filter head and oil pump for the drive cooler.
but all this has to miss the exhaust the drive shaft and look like it was thought out.
since they are not connected, and there are some unknowns as far as rigging with the engine moved forward.
a mock up plywood plate could be made with dowels in it all marked up with location length and thread pitch for studs to mount things
like power steering filter, hydraulic lines and the filter head and oil pump for the drive cooler.
but all this has to miss the exhaust the drive shaft and look like it was thought out.
we used template plastic to make all the noted cut outs then handed it to a water jet guy and he cut it out perfectly for like 75$. Too cheap to pass up. It sucks photobucket is no longer free because I have some examples I could share with you. Mine has the transom cut out water pickups and hydraulic steering Cut outs all integrated into the plate. Its about 30 wide 24 tall just under the exhaust holes. Also my stringers are on 34 centers like yours.
12-10-2017, 09:47 PM
#17
Registered
iTrader: (1)
1/2 on one boat 3/8 on the other. Both I felt were over kill and could honestly be done with 1/4.
6061 Aluminum. Then painted for corrosion resistance. In my experience paint applied correctly holds up Better then PC and can be easily touched up.
6061 Aluminum. Then painted for corrosion resistance. In my experience paint applied correctly holds up Better then PC and can be easily touched up.
Last edited by mickeymcclgn; 12-10-2017 at 09:49 PM. Reason: Additional info
12-11-2017, 04:55 PM
#18
routed out the transom and patch, the jig was extended 3 inches at the last minute and worked fine but it is a lot of work.
i'm a little disapointed the original patch was done the way it was, it would not have worked, not in a million years,
the seam isn't fully bonded so i'm going to have to clean it out with the muli tool, dowel the middle 4 bravo bolt holes
and syringe fill the seam with hi density stuff (have to research that).
staying with the plan of bolting the patch in place until the mat dries then doweling and glassing over it with 4 layers of 1708
mickey, i like paint over powder every day, can't stop corrosion but at least paint comes off easy prior to zinc and phantom black in a rattle can
i'm a little disapointed the original patch was done the way it was, it would not have worked, not in a million years,
the seam isn't fully bonded so i'm going to have to clean it out with the muli tool, dowel the middle 4 bravo bolt holes
and syringe fill the seam with hi density stuff (have to research that).
staying with the plan of bolting the patch in place until the mat dries then doweling and glassing over it with 4 layers of 1708
mickey, i like paint over powder every day, can't stop corrosion but at least paint comes off easy prior to zinc and phantom black in a rattle can
