350 EFI TBI Mods, cam, heads, intake, tune, 383?
#31
Fantastic. Just a few minor tuner items to point out. Make sure the motor is at operating temp before adjusting the fuel table. It is in enrichment mode prior to warm up. Also you IAC count is high. Counter this by making a physical adjustment to the throttle blade adjustment screw, which should bring the IAC down to 20 or less. In other words open the throttle blades just ever so slightly.
Great progress!
Great progress!
#32
Registered
Thread Starter
Fantastic. Just a few minor tuner items to point out. Make sure the motor is at operating temp before adjusting the fuel table. It is in enrichment mode prior to warm up. Also you IAC count is high. Counter this by making a physical adjustment to the throttle blade adjustment screw, which should bring the IAC down to 20 or less. In other words open the throttle blades just ever so slightly.
Great progress!
Great progress!
Since opening up the throttle blades a little, it starts instantly.
Here is a startup video, with lower IAC counts, idle set to 700, and 20 degrees timing at idle.
That clacking noise when I first start it is the flaps made into my exhaust tips. It stops once water starts to flow out the exhaust. Before I figured that out, I was a little scared it was coming from the engine......LOL
Scanner Pro acts a little flaky when I cycle the key and restart. I have to pull the USB, disconnect then reconnect the software to get good data without errors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpqnhggI3eU&feature=youtu.be
I went back and watched the first video and noticed my battery voltage was low compared to the second video. I hope I don't have an alternator problem, or maybe it just needs to come off of idle a little to excite the alternator and get it charging.
Last edited by Paxtonspeed; 06-28-2018 at 12:04 PM.
#33
Registered
Thanks! I did just that, I have the IAC counts sitting around 40. AFR at hot idle is around 12.8. You think I should lean it out a little more at idle?
Since opening up the throttle blades a little, it starts instantly.
Here is a startup video, with lower IAC counts, idle set to 700, and 20 degrees timing at idle.
That clacking noise when I first start it is the flaps made into my exhaust tips. It stops once water starts to flow out the exhaust. Before I figured that out, I was a little scared it was coming from the engine......LOL
Scanner Pro acts a little flaky when I cycle the key and restart. I have to pull the USB, disconnect then reconnect the software to get good data without errors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cpqn...ature=youtu.be
I went back and watched the first video and noticed my battery voltage was low compared to the second video. I hope I don't have an alternator problem, or maybe it just needs to come off of idle a little to excite the alternator and get it charging.
Since opening up the throttle blades a little, it starts instantly.
Here is a startup video, with lower IAC counts, idle set to 700, and 20 degrees timing at idle.
That clacking noise when I first start it is the flaps made into my exhaust tips. It stops once water starts to flow out the exhaust. Before I figured that out, I was a little scared it was coming from the engine......LOL
Scanner Pro acts a little flaky when I cycle the key and restart. I have to pull the USB, disconnect then reconnect the software to get good data without errors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cpqn...ature=youtu.be
I went back and watched the first video and noticed my battery voltage was low compared to the second video. I hope I don't have an alternator problem, or maybe it just needs to come off of idle a little to excite the alternator and get it charging.
My Tuned modded C6 Vette idles there and then drops to 12.6-12.8 when making power
#34
Thanks! I did just that, I have the IAC counts sitting around 40. AFR at hot idle is around 12.8. You think I should lean it out a little more at idle?
Since opening up the throttle blades a little, it starts instantly.
Here is a startup video, with lower IAC counts, idle set to 700, and 20 degrees timing at idle.
That clacking noise when I first start it is the flaps made into my exhaust tips. It stops once water starts to flow out the exhaust. Before I figured that out, I was a little scared it was coming from the engine......LOL
Scanner Pro acts a little flaky when I cycle the key and restart. I have to pull the USB, disconnect then reconnect the software to get good data without errors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cpqn...ature=youtu.be
I went back and watched the first video and noticed my battery voltage was low compared to the second video. I hope I don't have an alternator problem, or maybe it just needs to come off of idle a little to excite the alternator and get it charging.
Since opening up the throttle blades a little, it starts instantly.
Here is a startup video, with lower IAC counts, idle set to 700, and 20 degrees timing at idle.
That clacking noise when I first start it is the flaps made into my exhaust tips. It stops once water starts to flow out the exhaust. Before I figured that out, I was a little scared it was coming from the engine......LOL
Scanner Pro acts a little flaky when I cycle the key and restart. I have to pull the USB, disconnect then reconnect the software to get good data without errors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cpqn...ature=youtu.be
I went back and watched the first video and noticed my battery voltage was low compared to the second video. I hope I don't have an alternator problem, or maybe it just needs to come off of idle a little to excite the alternator and get it charging.
You may have done this but jumper A/B in the DLC and put the computer in base timing mode and ensure the distributor is set to 8 deg BTDC IF that's what the .bin file has set.
Scanner pro will always act flaky IF you have it connected when starting. I will start the motor THEN connect scanner pro and watch the data stream in. If I'm getting a lot of errors I disconnect and reconnect, not the physical USB or DLC but via the double arrow icon in scanner pro. May take a couple of tries. The lines are subject to RF interference and when under load at high rpm you may get data drops. Route the cable carefully.
Change one variable at a time or you will chase your tail. Fuel table and spark are the only things you really need to play with. All the other scalars and constants almost never need to be changed for what your are doing.
#35
Registered
Thread Starter
I prefer IAC to be 20 or less once warm and stabilized. That's nit picking. 12.8 AFR warm idle is overly conservative. 14.7 would be too lean in my opinion, not for fear of damage but I've found the idle to be less stable when above 14.2 AFR no load idle. Automotive applications behave differently. I target 13.8 or so warm idle. Above 1200 rpm and when loads begin I start to target 12.8-13.2.
You may have done this but jumper A/B in the DLC and put the computer in base timing mode and ensure the distributor is set to 8 deg BTDC IF that's what the .bin file has set.
Scanner pro will always act flaky IF you have it connected when starting. I will start the motor THEN connect scanner pro and watch the data stream in. If I'm getting a lot of errors I disconnect and reconnect, not the physical USB or DLC but via the double arrow icon in scanner pro. May take a couple of tries. The lines are subject to RF interference and when under load at high rpm you may get data drops. Route the cable carefully.
Change one variable at a time or you will chase your tail. Fuel table and spark are the only things you really need to play with. All the other scalars and constants almost never need to be changed for what your are doing.
You may have done this but jumper A/B in the DLC and put the computer in base timing mode and ensure the distributor is set to 8 deg BTDC IF that's what the .bin file has set.
Scanner pro will always act flaky IF you have it connected when starting. I will start the motor THEN connect scanner pro and watch the data stream in. If I'm getting a lot of errors I disconnect and reconnect, not the physical USB or DLC but via the double arrow icon in scanner pro. May take a couple of tries. The lines are subject to RF interference and when under load at high rpm you may get data drops. Route the cable carefully.
Change one variable at a time or you will chase your tail. Fuel table and spark are the only things you really need to play with. All the other scalars and constants almost never need to be changed for what your are doing.
I have a few more things to do before I can get it out on the water. I ordered a K&N Spark arrestor, and some GGB inserts to quiet her down some.
I am also doing some work on my engine cover.
#37
Registered
Thread Starter
#38
Thanks, I spliced in a weaterpack single pin connector on the tan/black wire going to the back of the module on the distributor. I can unplug this and set the base timing, then reconnect to allow the ECM to take back over. Right now I have it set to zero. This is how you did it on all the old TBI trucks. I have not looked at what base timing is set to in the tune, I just assumed it was zero, but I will be sure and look. Thanks for the reminder.
I have a few more things to do before I can get it out on the water. I ordered a K&N Spark arrestor, and some GGB inserts to quiet her down some.
I am also doing some work on my engine cover.
I have a few more things to do before I can get it out on the water. I ordered a K&N Spark arrestor, and some GGB inserts to quiet her down some.
I am also doing some work on my engine cover.
#39
Registered
Thread Starter
Checked the tune this morning and sure enough, the "Spark Reference Angle" is 8.1 degrees. So right now my timing tables are off by 8 degrees becasue I have the distributor base timing set to zero. Almost all the GM TBI .bins I have looked at for cars and trucks have this set to zero, so I assumed the TBI boat would be too. Thanks for the heads up or I may not have caught that.
Last edited by Paxtonspeed; 06-30-2018 at 07:47 AM.
#40
Checked the tune this morning and sure enough, the "Spark Reference Angle" is 8.1 degrees. So right now my timing tables are off by 8 degrees becasue I have the distributor base timing set to zero. Almost all the GM TBI .bins I have looked at for cars and trucks have this set to zero, so I assumed the TBI boat would be too. Thanks for the heads up or I may not have caught that.