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milkshake or condensation
Had the misfortune of doing a great milkshake job on my new rebuild in may on its maiden voyage. Not positive but think it was leaking through the water jacket on the head that seals to the intake as it is pitted and I used no rtv. So I finally got the motor back together with plenty of RTV this time and took it out for its first outing on Lake Tahoe, which is a very cold lake. Motor ran great no issues. I kept checking the dipstick for any problems and it showed clear for about 10 minutes. I checked it again about 15 minutes in and it showed a little cloudy so I freaked out and got the boat back on the trailer. During the 20 minutes or so out we ran the boat mostly in the 4500-5k range and the oil temp never got above 160 and the water temp never got over 105. I had no thermostat in it, I do have a 160 installed now. My oil cooler does a have thermostat. I came home and pulled the motor back out and drained the oil. There is a few pics of the oil I drained and also what I just saw taking off the valve covers. So is it condensation from the motor or oil never getting hot enough or do I have another leak? The oil I drained looks perfect.https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...dea787f7b2.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0ef8cfedb0.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7c3cf3ac1f.jpg |
That condensation is beyond my experience, but when I popped a gasket the oil filter was full of sludge. When I had bad condensation before installing oil stats it looked similar but about half that bad from 60* water with no sludge in the filter. |
IMO that's more than condensation for 15 minutes run time.
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Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4635438)
IMO that's more than condensation for 15 minutes run time.
I can't remember the history here but I know you had issues with this motor before right?? did everything get magnafluxed prior to assembly?? block and heads?? is it possible to have a cracked head or intake or something?? I would think that has to be a leak to turn that milky in such a short amount of time |
I just had a very similar experience with my builds, turned out to be “hole” in the exhaust port which I overlooked several times but the machine shop found it right away. My suggestion is pull the heads and have them pressure tested ASAP before you have to take the motor completely apart again to get rid of the milkshake. Multiple oil changes is not the best way to clean it out IMO. Good luck. |
Thanks for the responses. The history is the block did get two new sleeves for this rebuild. After it milkshaked I had the block pressure tested but did not have the heads done or magnafluxed. The block pressure tested fine. I have to take it completely apart to clean correctly at this point. The motor has all good internals might just need to start with a new block and aluminum heads. Sucks I am getting so good at installing and removing engines LOL. Had this one out in 30 minuteshttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...16610c0779.jpg
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This is usually when the drive bellows develops a mysterious tear overnight before the insurance policy needs to be renewed. :) Best of luck! |
I hate to hear it Tahoe. I know you have had a bad bunch of luck lately. Cross your I’s and dot your T’s and it will all work out. |
Another reason why Merc blue motors have pcv's and not just vents. ie: motors that have condensation issues. Works real well.
Use a good thread sealer on your headbolts too. |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4635473)
Another reason why Merc blue motors have pcv's and not just vents. ie: motors that have condensation issues. Works real well.
Use a good thread sealer on your headbolts too. |
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