Hi guys i got the headers on elbow tops i wish the were sport tubes but the deal was right and i hot to dith the Gil system, it running pretty good no serious gains maybe 1-2 mph at best still neec to keep playing with jets and stuff, and still debating intakes swap, on the outlaw are you guys liking the mirage plus the best thanks

Hi guys its another year thinking of playing with props what do you think about a mirage plus i have on it vs a labbed bravo 1

Have you tried the spacers yet? I have a 524 with the AFR 305's that have been ported and a Brodix HV2000 intake that was ported to match the heads. I have a .623/.612 and 24/252 @.050 cam, also running 10.1:1 compression with lightning headers. I also have a 4150 1000cfm carb from Pro Systems. The 1" 4 hole tapered spacer will pick up the mid range and the 1" open will add to the top end. If you don't notice a difference something else is holding you back. I run a 30p labbed Bravo 1 prop and I get to the mid 80's easily. I will probably top out somewhere above 90. I never dyno'd the motor but based on my performance I must be in that 700hp neighborhood. I also highly recommend the Daytona Sensors ignition especially when you start getting a cam with more duration. My carbed boat starts and idles like EFI maybe even better with the Daytona CD-1 idle control. The design of your Spark Arrestor can impact carb flow as well. I went with a velocity stack style with a K&N 4"x14" marine approved filter anything smaller and you are pulling a vacuum at WOT.

Thanks for the input i am currently running a single 1" hvh supersucker blended 4 hole. Also running a factory hp500 spark arrestor thats a good thought on upgrading that. And it seems there isnt a bunch of info on whether that stock hp500 dart intake is hurting or would benefit from upgrading

also yes i am pulling 1" or 2" of vaccum at wot

1” is fine. 2” is not.
Take reading over carb (in flame arrestor) to see if it’s flame arrestor causing it.

Something to check too, many intakes have extra material at the port opening for port matching. I had to remove a ton of material on my Brodix intake to match it to the intake port on the head. Run a camera down your runners and check it. It's easy to port match your intake to your heads. If you are running the 305's the way they come from AFR the ports are somewhat smaller than the recommended gasket. take some poster board and cut it into a strip that will cover the entire intake face of your cylinder head and tape it securely to your head. Find your bolt holes and cut them carefully with a razor knife. place a few bolts in place to locate the poster board. if you take a hammer and tap gently around each port opening and I stress gently it will mark the port opening on the poster board. You can then cut the marked locations and transfer those to your intake. Take a die grinder and carefully open the intake runner to match. You will want to blend the runner so the port shape flows into the runners. A little WD-40 on the carbide cutter will keep it from loading up.

Thisislivin - manilla folder paper with a ball peen. Much easier than cutting.

Ooops, let out another speed secret. LOL. Just playin.

I do this more with exhaust ports vs exhaust header/manifold. You'd be surprised what you find. This is a bigger hurt on power than intake mismatch. Sometime Yuge.

If not sure what I'm saying use that as search terms and you'll find some old guy doing it this way.