I gotcha...it just seemed odd to me that the exact issue I told them about that they were supposed to fix happened...but I guess it is a performance engine and things happen

it was cylinder 2 that stuck...front cylinder on the starboard side....I think that's 2

I know they do A LOT of race engines but mostly all N/A...is there something I should recommend to them since it is forced induction...along the lines of what you said MT...maybe suggest opening clearances up a bit??

thanks

Stewart

For valve guide clearance you need to have at least .002 , no seals so you can get some oil in there.
I would jet it like MT , but with that much stagger in jetting , your AFRs are all over cylinder to cylinder . I personally think PVs on a Blower are a waste of time, the vacuum curve is just linear based on rpm with a blower , it doesnt reflect load or throttle opening like a NA engine,
but I know alot of guys make it work for them.
Also make sure you have good water flow , I would install water lines to the back of your intakes if you dont already have them.
Crossover systems can cause localized hot spots in the heads . Leading to valves sticking .

I have to disagree. Having primary jets of 88 with a pv, and secondary of 96 without power valve, is fairly close distribution wise.

I can watch my afr meter, and see when the power valve opens. When it opens , can vary based on throttle opening, or load. If im at 3400rpm, light fuel, calm water, it stays closed. If im at 3400rpm, full fuel, rough water (drives tucked and some tab), its open. I marked my throttles where the secondaries open , and try to tune primary by itself for optimum settings. I had 3.5 pvs in initially, with 88 jets on current setup. Fast cruise on just the primary's, it was kinda fat with power valve open, in the low 11's. I put 10.5's in, with 82 jets. Now it cruises on the primaries in the 11.8-12.0 range, except for very light cruise at say 3000, its in the 12.5 range.

I used to run water dumps off the rear of my intakes years ago, but currently do not. Only reason was these intakes were new when i changed blowers, and were not drilled. I didnt feel like drilling ,tapping , and running more dumps. I dont run any water thermostats, restrictors, etc.

I just looked through my build sheet and valve to guide clearance is noted listed in there...I will def be asking about that however...would not running seals cause a little oil burn?? I understand getting some oil in there but I feel like no seal at all would cause excessive oil burn?? maybe I'm way off on that

As far as cooling...I do have a crossover with no bypass no thermostat no restrictor nothing...when I was out running it I saw temps come up to 130-140 on those 2 WOT runs but normally hover around 120-130...seems a little cold to me but I'm trying to address one issue at a time so I don't get overwhelmed...on that note however...I do need to address the oil temp fairly soon...The gauge didn't move off of 140 which is where it starts...I checked the sender and everything is new and functioning properly....I think I have the sensors mounted in the wrong orientation as they are deadheaded in a tee along with the oil pressure sender above the oil filter mount on the block....Like I said one problem at a time...or its slightly possible I didn't run it enough to see a rise in oil temp?? either way that will be my next issue to resolve after the jetting/head ordeal is solved

Stewart

I never see my water temp gauge move. How large are the hoses feeding your exhaust?

I have 1 1/4" from the water pump to the crossover then -12 AN from the crossover to the bottom of the headers and -12 AN from the top of the headers to the ends of the tailpipes for dumps...you can pretty much see it all in this pic....

I was more concerned with oil temp than water....shouldn't it come up to temp or only while I'm running hard??

I believe the crossover was reason I was sticking valves without the intakes plumbed. I'd also look for obstruction in the heads.

so basically the intakes plumbed....meaning the rear water passages on the intake where it meets the heads are drilled and tapped and a hose from there dumping overboard correct?? what size hose would that need to be??

-12 is kinda small for feeding exhaust imo. What happens here, is you simply reduce water flow thru the system by restricting the exit side. If you look at what mercury uses, usually youll find 1" or 1.125" hoses feeding the exhaust.

I use crossovers as well, but with 1" hoses feeding the headers. A couple weekends ago i went boating on a small local lake, where the water was 90+ degrees. I maybe saw just over 100* water temp running hard. Thats why i asked what size lines you have, because if youre seeing those temps with no thermostats, you probably are lacking water flow.

been down that road with a buddy. He had procharged engines. He was feeding the imco manifolds with -10 lines. His exhaust manifolds would be freakin hot after a run, and his water psi was very high. I suggested he switch to -16an, but he went with -12 instead. It helped a bit, dropped some psi and manifolds werent as hot, but still to small imo. Eddie young uses minimum -16an if not larger if i recall on his stuff.

as far as oil temp, i recommend an oil thermostat setup. Keep the water cold, and the oil in the 170-220 range, get the afrs in line, and you should be golden.

nice looking mill btw

Thanks!! I do have the stock oil thermostat setup that came on the engine from merc(525 sc) and still with that the oil temp gauge never came off of 140...Maybe just didn't run it long or hard enough or like I said the sending unit is in the wrong spot

Before I start changing a bunch of stuff and getting crazy I think I'm gonna get the heads back and get it back together, rejet it, and try it again...If the temps become an issue I'll look into upsizing the water lines...I did check my headers while I was running and they never got too hot to lay your hand on so at least the lines aren't way too small haha