Preparing cylinder heads for marine application
#33
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Micrometer for the diameter and I have a set of ZZ class pin/plug gauges to check the guides, a slight variation in size but was amazed how parallel they where. Split ball would be nice but my smallest one is for the lifter bores.
Last edited by Camalot; 12-03-2018 at 03:28 PM.
#34
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From: NW Michigan
Sounds like your on the right track anyway and at the very least understanding the importance of the clearance. The old school marine truck engines seemed to run flawlesssly without marine prep however that was before any real power stated to come into play. Then again at least some if not several didn't even have oil coolers. I ran over 60 miles wot at 4,600 with no issues. Bone stock 78 boat. Water temps 50/60 deg.
#35
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Sounds like your on the right track anyway and at the very least understanding the importance of the clearance. The old school marine truck engines seemed to run flawlesssly without marine prep however that was before any real power stated to come into play. Then again at least some if not several didn't even have oil coolers. I ran over 60 miles wot at 4,600 with no issues. Bone stock 78 boat. Water temps 50/60 deg.
#36
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From: BC
Ive always cut my seat widths to .040 on intake , .060 Exhaust . I also hit them real lightly with a lap stick and fine compound.
The powdered metal seats when cut that narrow with a dead pilot cutter , tends to not have real sharp defined angles .
With the good powdered metal seats they will spread .010 to .015 each after a few hours hard running , and seat in very well.
The powdered metal seats when cut that narrow with a dead pilot cutter , tends to not have real sharp defined angles .
With the good powdered metal seats they will spread .010 to .015 each after a few hours hard running , and seat in very well.



