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69 Mach 1 HELP

Old 12-13-2018 | 03:57 PM
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Default 69 Mach 1 HELP

First off sorry not boat related. i am in the process of installing new rebuilt current model Windsor block with no pivot ball boss. Anyone drill out and tap for or is it best to purchase the adapter that appears to bolt up to 2 of the bell housing bolts. I'm confident drilling and tapping in the correct location with a little grinding however just curious if anyone has done this.

Next question is the original clutch fork was missing and the housing appears to be a lakewood. Is it necessary to have a 1" longer fork and also not 100% certain on how the back of the fork is suppose to be positioned. The crease in the aftermarket fork rest and centers on the tab on the inside of the housing but just doesn't seem correct to me what so ever. That tab on inside of housing that bolts on has me confused.

This was a long on going project and probably 20 years plus since the worked over 302 boss grenaded so it's down to just installing my new rebuilt engine. I will post pics in a few minutes as they are on my cell phone.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-13-2018 | 04:06 PM
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Old 12-13-2018 | 04:10 PM
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Old 12-13-2018 | 04:14 PM
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Old 12-13-2018 | 06:29 PM
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What do I need a piece of coat hanger. Wtf.. Hah. I'd like to switch over to cable but going to manage to use what I have for now and in a bit of a rush. The fork on the left looks like it must just help keep in place with wire as shown. Assuming it must tie in with clip on housing.
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Old 12-13-2018 | 06:32 PM
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as for drilling the block I am not sure but seems to me that the ones with the hole have more material there, i.e. there is more around the hole. if you drill that block it may end up thin around the hole. that is why most use the bolt on adapter. what about the fork is bothering you? if I remember right that is just set up against the bell housing bracket and the tension of the clutch keeps it pushed up on it. my 65 mustang has the same problem with the block and the z arm does not play well with the headers so I am going to a hydraulic slave that is mounted to the trans and pulls the fork.
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Old 12-13-2018 | 07:58 PM
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Tks I thought about the hyd route also. Ive got a small machine shop and can fabricate a bell housing bracket with a slotted 7/16-1/2" hole so the pivot ball can have some adjustability. After looking online this seems to be an issue and hang up for others doing the same thing with newer blocks/older cars without pivot ball provision.

Your right there doesnt look like enough meat on the block where I need to drill and tap. I've even read where guys have had to cut off or add to Z bar.
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Old 12-13-2018 | 08:11 PM
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Some have had issues with Zbar lining up even with the housing bracket. Modifications still need be made. Just a thought however maybe install engine again and line up Z bar from frame as a point of reference and then see where pivot ball needs to be on engine and drill and tap custom bracket. Just a thought.
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Old 12-13-2018 | 08:31 PM
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not that familiar with the 69, have a 70 at the shop but it is an auto, but the 65 has a problem with headers and z arm, the cable conversion with headers puts the cable against one of the tubes so that is why I am going with hydraulic. on the 65 the upper rod goes thru the firewall at an angle. they sell a conversion kit for several hundred bucks but I am cheap and they say you can use a master from a ranger or 80's c10 or a couple others that mounts at the same basic angle that the rod comes thru so it works pretty well with out a lot of engineering.
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Old 12-13-2018 | 09:13 PM
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Headers before were not an issue in the 69 however that was with Cleveland heads. Old headers flange does not line up with new engine heads. Heads are from company out in California that I don't know the manufacturer however were purchased and ported by Valakos employee years ago who no longer works for him.
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