The ls engine actuallu fill the heads at high rpm and do have a bad history of draining pan. Very real concern on these. They have minimal drain back. The holes in the tray being at the top by the valley only slightly helps but none the less does help. I also tend to run .050 restricted pushrods opened to .070 vs the standard .100. Still plenty of oil but keeps it on the bearings more where its needed. This baby has every mod I am listing done and trust me she is ran hard ( pro touring events)

The aluminum block will need closed cooling for corrosion and cooling consistency. Mine are gm blocks and heads. Line honed. Decked. Bored. Cnc honed 600ra. You name it. Its machined.

Do a google search for ls engines in road racing, which is extended high rpm running like a boat, with the emphasis being on oil starvation and you will find all the info you can read. I should be fine with 10.5 oil capacity but no chances considering im already in there doung it. I may even run an accusump for when I get off the gas hard after long run and cold starts. Piece of mind. Out of all the toys I own the number one and only killer has been oiling mainly on the main bearings. It is my kryptonite.

tell me about that oil pan. Does the stock pickup tube work with it? What is needed to run a remote filter from the pan?

Champ oil pan. Part # listed in first post. 4 trap doors rear sump. Windage tray. Very very nice pan. Billet adapter that also eliminates oil bypass. Dipstick on ls goes in block

did you order them from champ?

Yes.

Thanks. Should be ready for paint tomorrow other than that waiting on pushrods. Then onto wiring we go and reengineering some tails still pondering on pro systems venom vx carb 1050 annular or holley sniper efi. Carb more power less dockability. Efi less hp more dockability slight gph decrease. Decisions