How often do you change your motor oil?
11-08-2002, 05:14 PM
#32
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Rick,
Yes, the rubber flapper is the drainback valve.
I cut open a Mecury filter and a Sierra filter and they are exactly the same. Manufactured in the same plant, same materials - exactly the same. In fact, one of the mechanics told me that they have even received Mercury boxes with Sierra filters or vice versa. I have not looked at any of the others but I would be willing to cut a few open and check them out. They are only a few bucks a piece.
I think I still have the mecrury filter if you are interested in checking it out.
Steve
Yes, the rubber flapper is the drainback valve.
I cut open a Mecury filter and a Sierra filter and they are exactly the same. Manufactured in the same plant, same materials - exactly the same. In fact, one of the mechanics told me that they have even received Mercury boxes with Sierra filters or vice versa. I have not looked at any of the others but I would be willing to cut a few open and check them out. They are only a few bucks a piece.
I think I still have the mecrury filter if you are interested in checking it out.
Steve
11-08-2002, 05:34 PM
#33
Charter Member
Charter Member
I have to agree with Sun. Why try to save a few bucks on something so important. Mercruiser is not going to use oils or filters that could harm their engines and cost thousands in warranty problems. I agree that Mercruiser doesn't make their own oil or filters, but its all made to their specifications.
11-09-2002, 08:08 AM
#34
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FYI
As a result of this thread I have done some research of the oil filter topic. I have always used the AC PF-35 with excellent results.
I contacted AC delco via e mail and ask them to explain the difference between the PF-35, PF-35L, & the PF-1218.
Their response was "the only differences are that the PF-35L is a little shorter than the other two, has a higher micron rating and the PF-1218 has an anti - drain valve."
I will more than likely be switching to the PF - 1218 at the next change.
Be safe,
Mark
As a result of this thread I have done some research of the oil filter topic. I have always used the AC PF-35 with excellent results.
I contacted AC delco via e mail and ask them to explain the difference between the PF-35, PF-35L, & the PF-1218.
Their response was "the only differences are that the PF-35L is a little shorter than the other two, has a higher micron rating and the PF-1218 has an anti - drain valve."
I will more than likely be switching to the PF - 1218 at the next change.
Be safe,
Mark
Platinum Member
11-11-2002, 09:14 AM
#39
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Dr Nautica,
Do I know you? I think that I do. If that is the case when you redid your engine did you eliminate the thermostat and go with a crossover instead? If you did its more than likely a simple fix if you are just getting "condensation" type of moisture problems under the valve covers etc. Had the same problem on my last boat after I "played" with it. Went back to the Merc. thermostat and water pump and problem solved. With the crossover and no thermostat the oil does not get hot enough to evaporate any water out of the engine. My temp guage with the crossover would barely reach the bottom of the scale. Way to cool. If you are the Dr. Nautica I am thinking of then you know that we boat in the same water.
Next step would be to add a spacer between your exhaust manifold and riser to help eliminate any reversion from the exhaust. Don't know your cam specs but it does sound on the healthy side. Where do you have your idle speed set? I would set at 750 min. and more than likely with your set up 800 or so. Higher idle speed will also help eliminate water reversion from the exhaust.
Be Safe,
Mark
Do I know you? I think that I do. If that is the case when you redid your engine did you eliminate the thermostat and go with a crossover instead? If you did its more than likely a simple fix if you are just getting "condensation" type of moisture problems under the valve covers etc. Had the same problem on my last boat after I "played" with it. Went back to the Merc. thermostat and water pump and problem solved. With the crossover and no thermostat the oil does not get hot enough to evaporate any water out of the engine. My temp guage with the crossover would barely reach the bottom of the scale. Way to cool. If you are the Dr. Nautica I am thinking of then you know that we boat in the same water.
Next step would be to add a spacer between your exhaust manifold and riser to help eliminate any reversion from the exhaust. Don't know your cam specs but it does sound on the healthy side. Where do you have your idle speed set? I would set at 750 min. and more than likely with your set up 800 or so. Higher idle speed will also help eliminate water reversion from the exhaust.
Be Safe,
Mark
11-11-2002, 10:06 AM
#40
I use Valvoline straight 40wt Racing oil. From what I was told the non-racing oil has detergents in it, but I have used that as well. I have oil thermostats, large oil coolers and use the K&N HP-6 oil filters that are mounted vertically on my engines. I usually change out the oil every 15 hours on my engines and drives. My engines have hyd roller cams and see A LOT of idling time.
The K&N oil flters are supposed to have excellent filtering qualities down to so many microns (can't remember how many) and a better tolerance burst rate which means that they're supposed to have excellent flow charactoristics as well. Not sure how well they stack up to other brands though.
Anyone hear or experience anything on the K&N's ?
The K&N oil flters are supposed to have excellent filtering qualities down to so many microns (can't remember how many) and a better tolerance burst rate which means that they're supposed to have excellent flow charactoristics as well. Not sure how well they stack up to other brands though.
Anyone hear or experience anything on the K&N's ?
