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502 mag mpi dies for unknown reason

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502 mag mpi dies for unknown reason

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Old 06-06-2019, 05:20 AM
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Blueabyss - ok thanks!
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:03 PM
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Any updates to the post mines doing the same thing
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:42 PM
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ethanon1- nothing yet. Just changed back to my stock coil and changing the ignition module as well. Should have results this weekend.
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Old 06-07-2019, 03:40 PM
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Make sure you use real heat transfer compound (clear paste is not heat transfer compound - it is dielectric grease - it is a insulating compound..doh !) which is typically white or silver. If module comes with dielectric grease, most do thus why I an warning you like the last 1000 people - get real stuff like Arctic Silver (available at computer repair stores and Amazon and etc) and use very thin with razor or etc. Look it up online..will be vids on it.

The module isn't aftermarkt is it ? Must be same delco as you have or good fuking luck.
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Old 06-07-2019, 03:55 PM
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SB- thanks for the tip....I have a tube of dial electric grease. Im use to those from fords with TFI modules.
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Old 06-07-2019, 03:57 PM
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AND THAT IS JUST AS WRONG !

Parts stores and dealers have not known this for 30yrs ! That is around when the switchover happened and everyone copied each other,. It's like all the old counterman + engineers died or left across the nation on the same day !
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Old 06-23-2019, 03:17 PM
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Finally got the boat out...I ended up swapping coils to my factory gm, installing the new distributor module and replacing the cap and rotor while i was at it. Motor didn't die at all so it seems between at least two of those items between the coil ign module it fixed my issue.
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Old 07-03-2019, 09:37 AM
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I had a similar issue with my 454 mag mpi, it had codes for knock sensor, timing. I found the knock sensor was unplugged, i replaced the sensor and plugged it up knock code went away. Then had the ignition code to deal with, boat kept jumping timing. Replaced distributor and pick up coil and that code was gone. Boat was still shutting down under load only over 3k rpms. Had a mechanic bring a dummy dash in to eliminate all the gauges and switches up front. We isolated it to the motor. Checked all grounds and made sure main harness was not loose. Then we ran a fuel pressure test. My boat has an electric pump on the bottom that supplies the mechanical pump and then up to the VST tank. Initially i thought fuel system was good because vst tank was full of fuel. Found out the electric pump was heating up and locking up. Replaced with new holly electric pump and everything was perfect. Just relaying the steps I had to take to eliminate things to get to the root cause. Hope this can help.
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