Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > General Q & A
Alignment still an issue >

Alignment still an issue

Notices

Alignment still an issue

Thread Tools
 
Old 03-11-2020 | 10:14 PM
  #11  
Registered
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 464
Likes: 6
From: Grosse Pointe Woods, Mi
Default

Have you tried turning the engine over at all? Could be your coupler is just stuck in one position. Put your alignment bar in and hit the bar with a rubber malet from side to side a couple times. Loosen you rear mounts and rock the engine around a bit. Retighten the rear mounts and then check your alignment with the bar. Something just may not be seated all thr way.
Steve
Katanna is offline  
Reply
Old 03-11-2020 | 10:43 PM
  #12  
Thread Starter
Registered
 
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Linden NJ
Default

ph1971. Thank's for the diagrams! I get what your saying. I can't take the engine out but I can raise it a few feet off the stringers. I will give it a shot. Thank's again!
BravoX1D is offline  
Reply
Old 03-11-2020 | 10:57 PM
  #13  
Thread Starter
Registered
 
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Linden NJ
Default

Originally Posted by Katanna
Have you tried turning the engine over at all? Could be your coupler is just stuck in one position. Put your alignment bar in and hit the bar with a rubber malet from side to side a couple times. Loosen you rear mounts and rock the engine around a bit. Retighten the rear mounts and then check your alignment with the bar. Something just may not be seated all thr way.
Steve
I tried everything you said and then some. The bar refuses to go in unless the block is off center. At one point it was dead on. This sure is a mystery!?
BravoX1D is offline  
Reply
Old 03-11-2020 | 11:18 PM
  #14  
Thread Starter
Registered
 
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Linden NJ
Default

Originally Posted by getrdunn
Sorry to hear about your issues. That sucks but certainly not the first time for something like this. Like phragle mentioned nothing truly square in a wooden or glass etc boat. I might not be getting a 100% but can you shim anywhere to find a happy medium. My biggest concern would be the potential stress on the side load of seals / bearings. I might have missed it but if you drop your transom mount bolts in place from what I understand is your engine is not parallel to your stringers resulting in not mating with the front mounts. If you can get the drive on without force is it possible to do as motioned above with shimming or offsetting forward mounts. Kinda funny I've used a drywall square myself in the bilge for various reasons over the years but typically leaves me scratching my head for reasons like phragle said.
My boat may very well have come from the builder that way. I did the entire engine compartment over so I will never know. My new stringers are of the same dimensions and very close to the original locations and everything looks kosher. I intend to try what ph1971 suggested. If I come to the conclusion my transom is off somehow, then shimming one side of the transom plate is my only option. Just for the record, everything is new except for the transom assembly. it was rebuilt. Thank's for the feed back!
BravoX1D is offline  
Reply
Old 03-12-2020 | 02:23 AM
  #15  
Registered
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,053
Likes: 39
From: Further South East of Dome Island
Default

Wow, what an issue.. Regardless, seems the motor must be square to the TA so..front mounts must go where they want once motor square.
Pismo10 is offline  
Reply
Old 03-12-2020 | 06:03 AM
  #16  
Registered
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,600
Likes: 1,168
From: taxachusetts
Default

what did you torque the transom nuts to?does it look like the transom may be crushing to 1 side?
sutphen 30 is offline  
Reply
Old 03-12-2020 | 07:41 AM
  #17  
Registered
10 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 2,346
Likes: 191
Default

I also have been scratching my head over your situation. Only other thing can come up with is check the fitment between the back of your block and the flywheel cover assembly (bellhousing in a car) . Make sure it is not somehow cocked or binding somewhere, perhaps something wedged between them (like the ground cable or a washer). The flywheel cover not mating properly to the rear engine block would produce this. Keep us posted.

Last edited by GLENAMY 242SS; 03-12-2020 at 07:46 AM.
GLENAMY 242SS is offline  
Reply
Old 03-12-2020 | 12:42 PM
  #18  
Thread Starter
Registered
 
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Linden NJ
Default

Originally Posted by sutphen 30
what did you torque the transom nuts to?does it look like the transom may be crushing to 1 side?
Originally Posted by GLENAMY 242SS
I also have been scratching my head over your situation. Only other thing can come up with is check the fitment between the back of your block and the flywheel cover assembly (bellhousing in a car) . Make sure it is not somehow cocked or binding somewhere, perhaps something wedged between them (like the ground cable or a washer). The flywheel cover not mating properly to the rear engine block would produce this. Keep us posted.
If I remember I may have torqued to 35. The inner transom is solid, no crushing evident. The coupler and flywheel housing were assembled out of the boat. I replaced the 2 pieces 3/4 plywood on the transom and glassed over it. I can't swear there is no deviation in my work. I'm trying to figure out how much of an offset in the transom plate would affect engine alignment. For example, what would 1/8" translate to at the front mount?
BravoX1D is offline  
Reply
Old 03-12-2020 | 02:03 PM
  #19  
Registered
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,356
Likes: 1,515
From: NW Michigan
Default

What kind of power you running. My only advice would be to get measurements as ph1971 illustrated and would determine where the problem is. If it’s in your work **** happens but as long as your confident you have the bond and strength needed just adjust forward mounts accordingly and run it. Someone here might be able to determine whether you can shim the inner assembly and caulk. I have no clue on that but I’d say you might have some deviation in your work. Take your time and get it the best you can for safety and performance and go have fun.

Are all the transom bolts showing the same amount thread?
getrdunn is offline  
Reply
Old 03-12-2020 | 04:59 PM
  #20  
Thread Starter
Registered
 
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Linden NJ
Default

Originally Posted by getrdunn
What kind of power you running. My only advice would be to get measurements as ph1971 illustrated and would determine where the problem is. If it’s in your work **** happens but as long as your confident you have the bond and strength needed just adjust forward mounts accordingly and run it. Someone here might be able to determine whether you can shim the inner assembly and caulk. I have no clue on that but I’d say you might have some deviation in your work. Take your time and get it the best you can for safety and performance and go have fun.

Are all the transom bolts showing the same amount thread?
Hi. Power is 600 hp 502 built up from a GM crate short block. I usually go overboard when it comes to building anything. I would say my transom job should be reasonably uniform. Nothing about the transom plate looks weird or out of place. Shimming said plate would be very unorthodox, but possible. Side loading on the grease seal may be the only down side. I'm sure the gimbal bearing can compensate. I mite just say fork it, and move forward. I don't usually give up on something until every possible option has been exhausted. Happy boating!

Last edited by BravoX1D; 03-14-2020 at 03:29 PM.
BravoX1D is offline  
Reply


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.