SBF HB bolt seized and can’t remove
#12
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
The heavy bulky socket does make sense. Eliminating any flex and shocking it more. I tried the starter method last week about 5-6 attempts. Even thought about putting the charger on crank in addition to a good battery. The impact I have is the 8850 and also have 6850 with new batteries as of recent. They’ve both worked great for all my other needs.
I borrowed a local semi/tractor repair shops 110 impact. I did try penetrating oil and brake fluid but it’s highly likely not getting much past the bolt and washer up against the harmonic balancer. I may have to continue that with the heat cycles as mentioned. Also the 3/4” breaker to help eliminate flex. The bolt head is a 12 pt 5/8. The engine was assembled over a decade ago by guy who worked for Valako.
I borrowed a local semi/tractor repair shops 110 impact. I did try penetrating oil and brake fluid but it’s highly likely not getting much past the bolt and washer up against the harmonic balancer. I may have to continue that with the heat cycles as mentioned. Also the 3/4” breaker to help eliminate flex. The bolt head is a 12 pt 5/8. The engine was assembled over a decade ago by guy who worked for Valako.
#13
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GEt the biggest and heaviest impact socket you can. Learned this back in the honda days. Thought I was being joked around. Nope. Tool companies actually then made these extremely big bulky sockets just for those honda crank pully bolts.Yes, learned i learned something from the fart can guys. Imagine that. Lololol
I once had to use a breaker against the concrete floor and engage starter for a quick second on an explorer (exploder) to get it’s harmonic balancer bolt out. Customer car. I was nervous as hell but it worked. Lolololol
I once had to use a breaker against the concrete floor and engage starter for a quick second on an explorer (exploder) to get it’s harmonic balancer bolt out. Customer car. I was nervous as hell but it worked. Lolololol
#14
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
A decade is not a long time for an engine bolt, Assuming its corroded and not mechanically damaged, I would try heating the bolt head to the point of dull red, then squirting water onto the bolt head (and not reuse the bolt). The heat will radiate into the crank expanding the size of the hole, the shock of cooling will reduce the bolt without cooling the crank. If its corrosion it should spin out easy, if its over torqued or, as stated before damaged threads, its going to take brute force. Air impact will have more force than electric.
#15
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iTrader: (1)
The heavy bulky socket does make sense. Eliminating any flex and shocking it more. I tried the starter method last week about 5-6 attempts. Even thought about putting the charger on crank in addition to a good battery. The impact I have is the 8850 and also have 6850 with new batteries as of recent. They’ve both worked great for all my other needs.
I borrowed a local semi/tractor repair shops 110 impact. I did try penetrating oil and brake fluid but it’s highly likely not getting much past the bolt and washer up against the harmonic balancer. I may have to continue that with the heat cycles as mentioned. Also the 3/4” breaker to help eliminate flex. The bolt head is a 12 pt 5/8. The engine was assembled over a decade ago by guy who worked for Valako.
I borrowed a local semi/tractor repair shops 110 impact. I did try penetrating oil and brake fluid but it’s highly likely not getting much past the bolt and washer up against the harmonic balancer. I may have to continue that with the heat cycles as mentioned. Also the 3/4” breaker to help eliminate flex. The bolt head is a 12 pt 5/8. The engine was assembled over a decade ago by guy who worked for Valako.
Again, difference made is for impact guns. Impact action much greater with a heavier socket. Won’t change much if used with wrench/bar lolol
Last edited by SB; 05-05-2021 at 08:21 AM.
#16
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iTrader: (7)
A decade is not a long time for an engine bolt, Assuming its corroded and not mechanically damaged, I would try heating the bolt head to the point of dull red, then squirting water onto the bolt head (and not reuse the bolt). The heat will radiate into the crank expanding the size of the hole, the shock of cooling will reduce the bolt without cooling the crank. If its corrosion it should spin out easy, if its over torqued or, as stated before damaged threads, its going to take brute force. Air impact will have more force than electric.
👍. Going to attempt this afternoon. I’m thinking a transmission funnel for the cold water. Whatever I use I’ll be sure and isolate to the bolt head as much as possible.
#17
Gold Member
Gold Member
Wait, wait, wait, you been doing all this and didnt round the head off yet? Broken flat panel TV's, thrown the wrench thru the wall and threw a beer bottle across the shop?
I clearly dont have the same ability or LUCK as you! Bwahahaha.
I clearly dont have the same ability or LUCK as you! Bwahahaha.
The following 4 users liked this post by Keith Atlanta:
#19
Have you tried to give it ugga-duggas both ways, tighten, and loosen? Just enough to break tension.
I've also had luck with a REALLY long pipe on a breaker bar, and literally hanging from the pipe for a few moments. Do you have a way to keep crank from rotating for such?
I've also had luck with a REALLY long pipe on a breaker bar, and literally hanging from the pipe for a few moments. Do you have a way to keep crank from rotating for such?