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getrdunn 05-04-2021 04:03 PM

SBF HB bolt seized and can’t remove
 
I’ve had some challenges over the years however none like this. If it wasn’t for going in 69 Mach 1 I’d given up by now. The engine is a stroked 94 351 Windsor with the reverse rotating water pump (shorter). Not good in my app so am wanting to swap out the timing chain cover and pump to old school.

I’ve tried hammering the head, applied a good amount of heat around bolt washer, used 1/2” snap on impact, 110 impact as well as 4ft cheater bar. No go.

Any help be greatly appreciated. Fords 🙈

zz28zz 05-04-2021 05:03 PM

There's always penetrating oil and heat cycles. Assuming it's rusted in, heat is the only thing that can quickly break the rust bonds. Penetrating oil can work wonders if you have the time.

Worst case you may be able to grind off the head of the bolt, remove cyl head and have better access to apply heat and more bolt to grip if the bolt head rounds off.

Edit: thought it said head bolt. Disregard last paragraph.

sutphen 30 05-04-2021 06:36 PM

is it a head bolt or a water pump bolt?water pump bolts like to corrode themselves in there really good.break the bolt off and deal with whats left.most likely,heat and welding nuts to it ,to get it out.

bajaman 05-04-2021 06:55 PM

For years I restored old British sports cars, mainly MGs and Triumphs...and know well the frustration you are going through. I remember well the WEEKS, yes, weeks...I spent replacing the rear end of a TR-6 that had seen far too many salty roads. Heat cycles and PB Blaster along with an impact gun were what worked there...but it can be DAMNED aggravating, for sure.

getrdunn 05-04-2021 06:55 PM

Thanks guys. I’ve tried a lot of heat but can do
more. (used yellow tank). Just didn’t wanna wreck crank seal in which case I can’t get out. It is the harmonic balancer bolt I’m dealing with. Never dealt with such a stubborn bolt. I’m not giving up though.

PA.WOODCHUCK 05-04-2021 07:05 PM

Could it be left-hand -thread?

SB 05-04-2021 08:19 PM

GEt the biggest and heaviest impact socket you can. Learned this back in the honda days. Thought I was being joked around. Nope. Tool companies actually then made these extremely big bulky sockets just for those honda crank pully bolts.Yes, learned i learned something from the fart can guys. Imagine that. Lololol

I once had to use a breaker against the concrete floor and engage starter for a quick second on an explorer (exploder) to get it’s harmonic balancer bolt out. Customer car. I was nervous as hell but it worked. Lolololol

liberator221 05-04-2021 08:20 PM

I’m sure you don’t want to hear this but, maybe when balancer got pulled off before, puller was not used correctly and threads on end of crank are messed up. Bolt then got jammed home with impact on reinstall and now you’re screwed. I’m assuming someone other than you had it apart before.

Unlimited jd 05-04-2021 08:42 PM


Originally Posted by SB (Post 4788519)
GEt the biggest and heaviest impact socket you can. Learned this back in the honda days. Thought I was being joked around. Nope. Tool companies actually then made these extremely big bulky sockets just for those honda crank pully bolts.Yes, learned i learned something from the fart can guys. Imagine that. Lololol

I once had to use a breaker against the concrete floor and engage starter for a quick second on an explorer (exploder) to get it’s harmonic balancer bolt out. Customer car. I was nervous as hell but it worked. Lolololol

done the same on many duramax’s. Wrench against the frame and bump the starter.

zz28zz 05-04-2021 09:29 PM

On my D-max, had to use a giant 3/4" breaker bar. Luckily it came loose. Starter trick was my backup plan..

snapmorgan 05-04-2021 09:47 PM

If you are using an older Snap on impact, they are some of the weakest impact guns ever made. Buy or borrow a newer impact of almost any brand, use a shallow well impact socket and it will come out. The newer impacts have enough power to snap that bolt in short order

getrdunn 05-05-2021 05:42 AM

The heavy bulky socket does make sense. Eliminating any flex and shocking it more. I tried the starter method last week about 5-6 attempts. Even thought about putting the charger on crank in addition to a good battery. The impact I have is the 8850 and also have 6850 with new batteries as of recent. They’ve both worked great for all my other needs.

I borrowed a local semi/tractor repair shops 110 impact. I did try penetrating oil and brake fluid but it’s highly likely not getting much past the bolt and washer up against the harmonic balancer. I may have to continue that with the heat cycles as mentioned. Also the 3/4” breaker to help eliminate flex. The bolt head is a 12 pt 5/8. The engine was assembled over a decade ago by guy who worked for Valako.

sutphen 30 05-05-2021 06:24 AM


Originally Posted by SB (Post 4788519)
GEt the biggest and heaviest impact socket you can. Learned this back in the honda days. Thought I was being joked around. Nope. Tool companies actually then made these extremely big bulky sockets just for those honda crank pully bolts.Yes, learned i learned something from the fart can guys. Imagine that. Lololol

I once had to use a breaker against the concrete floor and engage starter for a quick second on an explorer (exploder) to get it’s harmonic balancer bolt out. Customer car. I was nervous as hell but it worked. Lolololol

now that he told us what bolt is stuck.the starter trick works on many engines.

resurrected 05-05-2021 06:31 AM

A decade is not a long time for an engine bolt, Assuming its corroded and not mechanically damaged, I would try heating the bolt head to the point of dull red, then squirting water onto the bolt head (and not reuse the bolt). The heat will radiate into the crank expanding the size of the hole, the shock of cooling will reduce the bolt without cooling the crank. If its corrosion it should spin out easy, if its over torqued or, as stated before damaged threads, its going to take brute force. Air impact will have more force than electric.

SB 05-05-2021 08:17 AM


Originally Posted by getrdunn (Post 4788562)
The heavy bulky socket does make sense. Eliminating any flex and shocking it more. I tried the starter method last week about 5-6 attempts. Even thought about putting the charger on crank in addition to a good battery. The impact I have is the 8850 and also have 6850 with new batteries as of recent. They’ve both worked great for all my other needs.

I borrowed a local semi/tractor repair shops 110 impact. I did try penetrating oil and brake fluid but it’s highly likely not getting much past the bolt and washer up against the harmonic balancer. I may have to continue that with the heat cycles as mentioned. Also the 3/4” breaker to help eliminate flex. The bolt head is a 12 pt 5/8. The engine was assembled over a decade ago by guy who worked for Valako.

Look at the mass difference. And it works. Wonder if they make one for your size bolt ?

Again, difference made is for impact guns. Impact action much greater with a heavier socket. Won’t change much if used with wrench/bar lolol


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...04f857783.jpeg





getrdunn 05-05-2021 08:22 AM


Originally Posted by resurrected (Post 4788569)
A decade is not a long time for an engine bolt, Assuming its corroded and not mechanically damaged, I would try heating the bolt head to the point of dull red, then squirting water onto the bolt head (and not reuse the bolt). The heat will radiate into the crank expanding the size of the hole, the shock of cooling will reduce the bolt without cooling the crank. If its corrosion it should spin out easy, if its over torqued or, as stated before damaged threads, its going to take brute force. Air impact will have more force than electric.


👍. Going to attempt this afternoon. I’m thinking a transmission funnel for the cold water. Whatever I use I’ll be sure and isolate to the bolt head as much as possible.

Keith Atlanta 05-05-2021 08:29 AM

Wait, wait, wait, you been doing all this and didnt round the head off yet? Broken flat panel TV's, thrown the wrench thru the wall and threw a beer bottle across the shop?

I clearly dont have the same ability or LUCK as you! Bwahahaha.

snapmorgan 05-05-2021 08:29 AM

You need an air impact gun sir. The balancer itself will absorb the hammering from a battery impact gun. A good air impact will take that bolt out in seconds.

Sydwayz 05-05-2021 08:58 AM

Have you tried to give it ugga-duggas both ways, tighten, and loosen? Just enough to break tension.

I've also had luck with a REALLY long pipe on a breaker bar, and literally hanging from the pipe for a few moments. Do you have a way to keep crank from rotating for such?

Sydwayz 05-05-2021 09:00 AM


Sydwayz 05-05-2021 09:07 AM


getrdunn 05-05-2021 10:26 AM


Originally Posted by snapmorgan (Post 4788583)
You need an air impact gun sir. The balancer itself will absorb the hammering from a battery impact gun. A good air impact will take that bolt out in seconds.

My old air impact must have seen its best days. Gonna go borrow or buy one.

getrdunn 05-05-2021 10:28 AM


Originally Posted by SB (Post 4788579)
Look at the mass difference. And it works. Wonder if they make one for your size bolt ?

Again, difference made is for impact guns. Impact action much greater with a heavier socket. Won’t change much if used with wrench/bar lolol


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...04f857783.jpeg

holy wamba mother of all sockets. 😂

getrdunn 05-05-2021 10:36 AM


Originally Posted by Sydwayz (Post 4788587)
Have you tried to give it ugga-duggas both ways, tighten, and loosen? Just enough to break tension.

I've also had luck with a REALLY long pipe on a breaker bar, and literally hanging from the pipe for a few moments. Do you have a way to keep crank from rotating for such?

I did ongoing attempt left and right. I was gonna Hang on upside down with cheater pipe but didn’t want all 225 pds coming down on my ugly 🍉. I’ve got the flywheel locked up good.

Gonna go at it with some more ammo this afternoon. 😡🔫

RSCHAP1 05-05-2021 11:10 AM

Soak with 50/50 acetone and ATF.
Works much better than any commercial penetrating oil.
The new Milwaukee 18V Fuel impacts have LOTS of torque
Let the acetone ATF soak in for a few hours and impact off

getrdunn 05-06-2021 03:09 PM


Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta (Post 4788582)
Wait, wait, wait, you been doing all this and didnt round the head off yet? Broken flat panel TV's, thrown the wrench thru the wall and threw a beer bottle across the shop?

I clearly dont have the same ability or LUCK as you! Bwahahaha.


Ok now the real me is damm near above. Would’ve been already and then some 20 years. 😂

Project update. I went and got my tanks filled and really put the heat on it big time. Immediately got water on it through a hose with a 3/4 socket clamped on one end so I didn’t burn the hose but rather steamed my hand and now have some skin to chew on. Lol... Only had a dozen pair or more of gloves within 6 feet of each side of me.

Still not budging with 4 different impacts btwn air and cordless. As mentioned the starter trick failed as well. The only thing I’ve failed to do is get a what SB said. A bulky impact socket but not easy to find in a 12 pt 5/8.

At this point I’m considering swapping over to a serpentine set up so I can utilize the reverse rotation water pump. If so I’m certain to face a handful of other $hit. Not to mention I’d likely have to use that nasty looking alternator bracket etc etc.

Plus I just hate to leave something like this not addressed. Just not right but may have to. Please tell me how anything could penetrate beyond the bolt shoulder that’s up close and personal to the harmonic balancer. Unless I silicone a plastic cover over the void area with a small hole to fill and let sit. 🙈

getrdunn 05-06-2021 03:22 PM

Btw guys Tks for your ongoing attempts to help. I do appreciate it. I’ve got some time yet as I’m waiting on a different rear end and removing the 513’s.

Unlimited jd 05-06-2021 06:39 PM

Can you get in there and drill it at the edge of the threads? Parallel with the length of the bolt but right at the edge, and you can shoot some penetrating fluid in the hole. I’ve never seen a bolt that stuck that wasn’t cross threaded

BillK 05-06-2021 07:52 PM

If it is a 12 pt bolt it isnt stock, probably ARP. It still shouldnt be that tight. Ford crank bolts usually come right out. It might have Loctite on it but the heat should have taken care of that. I hate to ask but are you sure you are turning it in the right direction ? How much air pressure do you have available. My 30 year old Snap On 1/2" drive will take anything off at 160 psi. Even the notorious Honda crank bolts.

snapmorgan 05-06-2021 08:51 PM

That bolt must be coated with red loctite. Try heating the bolt head red hot and then take the torch away. As soon as the red color goes away, hit it with the impact. May need to repeat a couple of times. It WILL come out. Don't give up on it yet. You really need to find a shallow well impact socket. If you are using standard chrome sockets, I can't believe that you haven't split a dozen of them by now.

Griff 05-07-2021 12:41 AM

I'm thinking your impacts don't have enough torque. If they did, it would have come out or broke the bolt by now.

sutphen 30 05-07-2021 06:16 AM

to get some heat into that crank,,drain the oil and rev to 6k for 2 minutes or until it stops.bolt will come right out.

and yes,,its a joke
I second the 18v fuel

resurrected 05-07-2021 06:31 AM

I'm amazed you have not been successful. Bigger air impact. It has to have mechanical damage to the threads at this point, even red loctite would have been taken care of by now. Any NASCAR teams nearby? I have a modified IR pit stop gun that will produce 1000ftlbs of torque at 100PSI, and sounds awesome!

Sydwayz 05-07-2021 06:56 AM

Popped up on my FB news feed; almost like they know me:


https://media.tractorsupply.com/is/i.../1206025?$456$

getrdunn 05-07-2021 10:00 AM

I like the idea of a tuned up impact. The IR was my first impact wrench I owned and still have to date. I also forgot I had bought another one that was in another tool box I rarely use. In addition to those two air I also found one more our mechanic uses at the golf course shop. I’m going to turn up my air today from 145 to 175. And also plumb a hose directly to the tank. Honestly my cordless sure feel and sound more pissssed than the air.

cheech 05-07-2021 12:00 PM

What brand of cordless? M18 fuel in my experience seems like it'd bust anything.
Another thing if you're going to knock at it with an air impact gun again, spray or drip some oil or lube into it before ya try. Seems to give them some extra oomph IME.

getrdunn 05-07-2021 03:35 PM


Originally Posted by cheech (Post 4788825)
What brand of cordless? M18 fuel in my experience seems like it'd bust anything.
Another thing if you're going to knock at it with an air impact gun again, spray or drip some oil or lube into it before ya try. Seems to give them some extra oomph IME.


On way back from race track. Borrowed a friends modified snap on air impact. He said it outworks his cordless. For sure on the oil. My 18 volt cordless have raised havoc with a lot of bolts. I most generally don’t need anything more than my 14 volt 3/8. Gonna raise the psi
on the compressor and give this one a shot at it.

Craney 05-07-2021 04:16 PM

I wonder if you welded the same size nut on the nut the heat from the weld would penetrate better the the torch.

ShortCircuit 05-07-2021 09:29 PM

I have a 1/2” 18v Milwaukee Fuel impact in Manistee I’d let you borrow to try, it hits pretty hard

getrdunn 05-08-2021 08:36 AM


Originally Posted by ShortCircuit (Post 4788871)
I have a 1/2” 18v Milwaukee Fuel impact in Manistee I’d let you borrow to try, it hits pretty hard


No kidding!!! I’m just up in Onekama. SE end of portage lake. I would like to give it a try. Turns out the revved up air impact I tried from the track didn’t brake it lose but did have a noticeable set of balls.

Heading out looking for mushrooms now but will be in the area all day.

Tks
John


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