TomZ

iTrader: (2)

Guys, it’s always something.

Getting the Formula back together with closed cooling and it’s looking like it’ll be near impossible to replace the impeller without pretty much removing everything from the front of the engine.

The best way to tackle this issue is with a crank-mounted pump. The problem I’m finding is that the pumps are made to fit and center on the cast pulleys used on v-belt apps. Volvo has one that bolts to their 8.1 but hose fittings aren’t correct.


Anyone got a solution for this?

1BIGJIM

iTrader: (1)

I have Volvo Pumps. They are so simplistic and simple to change. And there not plastic😎 There has to be a simple way to reduce or increase the hose size and I bet you could even get the parts at Home Depot. So simple to pull hoses off to winterize to drain.

sutphen 30

why not make and adapter plate.

boostbros

i have adapted many it is not very hard to mount the pump with 3 bolts and a bit of simple machining the hose rerouting is often tougher

boostbros

as a note here there is 2 pumps a short and long impeller

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

I’ll probably do that. Was just wondering if anyone had a specific solution or something available to fit.

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

Actually, In this case the hose routing will be the easiest. I only have a short run to my trans coolers. The adapter will be the harder part.

bajaman

Sounds like if someone took the time and inclination to design an adapter plate, their would be a market for it..

seafordguy

Mine are a total pain after my closed cooling install. I had to grind an open end wrench down to get behind the circ pump house to tighten the bolt then to get to the impeller every year I have to pull the pulley off, unbolt the clamp down and then pull it out the back and down. It's awful - just simply awful. I wish I had explored a good electric option (no idea if one exists)

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

At least you can sit down in front of the engines to work on them. If have about a foot of free space in front of the engines… if it’s even that much. Before closed cooling I’d remove the circulation hose, unbolt the pump from the bracket, remove the bracket, then pull everything forward. It was a ***** but I could remove it in a few minutes. That won’t be the case now.

For electric to work you would need AC to do it efficiently. I think DC would require too much current and burn up quick. For grins I did a search on this and found that while it “could” work for low rpm solutions (a guy was running his 1500 rpm Perkins diesel powered trawler with a bait well pump) others couldn’t make it work because of volume issues.