You have Stainless Marine Aluminum exh manifolds?

The have a dry to riser joint?

Then you can plumb the exh man water output with a hose to the ground or recyle it in a large water drum as a heat sink.

Obviously...you'll have exhaust shooting up...and a pretty loud engine.

But you should be gtg.

An 8" stainless wire wheel on a bench grinder would do the turning for you.

Hold the the balancer in hand and slowly rotate. The wires will burnish the high spots on the pulley. Smooth it out. Stai less is harder than the iron.

You could probably press the outer ring back on to the elastomer.

Balancer Rebuilding: Interesting. I would have lots of questions. The rubber elastomer is a tuned firmness. Along with the weight of the outer ring etc.

As the rubber ages and dries/cracks, the dynamic elasticity will also change the reosnant freq of dampening etc.

$450 + shipping a heavy part both ways is expensive. Does he put a new outer ring on? If your outer ring is machined...then you're losing mass...and the balancer is no lo ger tuned to spec. How much? Can't say.

Maybe getting the outer ring pressed back on at a machine shop...provided the rubber is gtg and aligned...and clean up the pulley a bit more...and just run it u til you find a better solution in a few months?

manifold is glycol cooled. Dry joint.

As long as there isn’t any ill effect on the manifold’s themselves being opened ended with heat etc.


Damper rebuild…yeah, not sure. Pulley look tons better after evaporust. The rebuild would not include
the pulley.

I like your idea. I have an 8” bench wire wheel. I’ll give that a try as well.

Maybe the machine shop can spin it and check if it’s still in balance as is.

I've seen worse rubber elastomer. But that would be a decision to make.

The pulley is looking great. For some reason I was thinking the pulley was part of the oout ring, as per the LS engines.

$450 and you don't get a fresh pulley seems like a bad deal.

Wire wheel will tune that up yo the point of very little belt wear. Comparatively of course.

Coolant in the engine, are you going to run the heat exchanger from the water hose then?

After about 10 minutes on the bench wire wheel.

Looks better. The side view really shows the pitting on the grooves.

Yes. Will supply water to the crank pump, and let the HE do its thing. Block, heads, manifolds will be glycol cooled. The 2 hoses that would go to the risers for raw water will just be diverted to the floor.