[QUOTE=getrdunn;4813367]Darts have the pad to mount the injectors at the port. One of KE's main reason for staying with the Dart historically. I think probably the Profiller flows a little more. With either intake, port flow is a world of difference compared to the conventional blower intake. No 90 degree bends at the port. Mid range is a world of difference .

don't worry about the 700 lift,,we've been running over 700 for 3 seasons in a 46 outerlimits,1350hp upgraded 1075's.mark boos has done a ton of these motors w/ the exact same cam.

they sure are proud of a 1/2" thick aluminum plate w/ studs.almost 600 bucks betw, the 2 tunnel eam intakes.:D

I agree they are not cheap but it is convenient just to call up and order.
I`d spend a bunch of time getting someone to design and machine those for me. Time is money and I`m busy !

Good to hear about the Jones cam, I`ve had him design cams in the past and didn`t like the specs, they were always too small and not enough lift imop.

On way!!! 👍

[QUOTE=bob;4813405]I see what you mean by the pad for the injectors, that is a plus for the Dart.

I like these other set ups, Keith does like the TR`s also and the Coolermans` are just awesome as usual.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8c00540384.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...35532e82c7.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7ebd2bc47.jpeg

HA! Glad they had some, fantastic!

Apparently KE doesn't even use KE 2 piece valve covers. :D
Beautiful engines.

[QUOTE=Rookie;4813507]He never manufactured them for Big Chief heads.

It was just a joke. :)
Great concept if they worked...

I have a couple new sets I powder coated merc blue of the Hardin style but was wondering about the 2 piece. Are they not really what there suppose to be? Pretty sure I’ll be able to remove mine without sliding the stellings back??? Engines not in the boat yet.

They just leak like a sieve. It's like a constant oil change. Put oil in the fill hole on top, run boat for a few hours, the valve covers automatically drain oil to the bilge, top off with another 1/2 qt, drain bilge from the oil plug on the back of the transom.
Hardin might have corrected them. I know S30 has posted how he ground areas away to help.
Sorry ICPPLPEEING for the derailment.

I heard from Gelner that they are better now.. but who knows .
I have spring PEEers so don`t know if that would work .

I always thought they were a great concept however I’d rather lose a couple 1/4 nuts from time to time in the bilge rather than oil everywhere. That would drive me nuts!

As a stock replacement they leak. You can grind down the inner rail on the base at the rear corner which helps. With that cover you usually have the spring spray bars in them which only adds to the oil laying on top of head. I usually had oil return lines plumbed into the head going down to pan which helps keep oil a little cooler and definitely reduces the oil available to leak. Main benefit from my standpoint is time and accessibility. Oil absorb pad in bottom of hull usually takes care of oil problem. Comes down to a cost versus benefit question for the individual.

[QUOTE=bob;4813405]The profiler is hands down the best OTB tunnel ram HP wise.

heres a pic of how to do it.
head down to post 29 and beyond
Boatfreaks

lol okay boatfreaks.

^^^^ shouldn't be hard to get around - Darr did it for years -lol

Original 2 piece base

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...01671bafe8.jpg

After grinding to prevent leaking @ joint as per boat freaks thread


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f2b9947902.jpg

Question: Old intakes had the rear water passages tapped for the steam pockets I believe is the reason. Is that still a thing or an old wives tail?
Should I tap the TR water passages ?


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...501249865f.jpg

Did that work ?

is this possibly a new design?

https://www.cpperformance.com/p-8014...ve-covers.aspx

I took out 3-4 exhaust valves on my old Merlin heads. 30 seconds on plane each time. Vowed to always have them flow water. Dyno'd new EFI setups (Dart heads) and forgot to drill new EFI intakes. Didn't have a problem, but probably going to do it over the winter.

I figured, better safe than sorry.
Thanx


btw here some cheap 2 piece valve covers:lolhit:


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnm-r400

Looks like a time capsule OR a coffin for Gates, Zuckerberg, soros, etc!!!! 😂. Nahhhh just a coffin.

When they come, post up measurement of port opening CSA at head and at plenum, the numbers listed on summit are clearly incorrect at 2.36 x 1.68 or you'd be grinding for weeks

Those 2 piece covers are the original Keith Eickert design that Hardin/CP now own the patent to and sell. If you want the new redesigned covers that KE sells you have to go directly to their web site and order directly. KE Auto and Marine. The easiest way to tell them apart is the two bolts that hold the cover on are outside of the gasket sealing surface. I have not had a chance to run my new ones yet, but I see no reason why they would not work well just looking at the design.

Thanks for info.
Here is link
Two Piece Valve Cover - KE Automarine by Keith Eickert

Keith has them in stock. Keith claims they have not had the leak issues with the new design. You can reach him at 386-283-0885.

How much. 2 bolts really nice! Personally I don’t really care for the looks rather the purpose.

I left a message..
Bob do you know if he still offers them with the spring oilers ?

Having second thought on the solid roller.
It`s another $2k in valve covers.

My manifolds wont let me reach the bottom valve cover screws.
Id have to take the tips, tails and manifolds off to get to them. That`s weekend job.
They are close so loosening one to get to the bolts isn`t an option either

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...78b2769092.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c9d344f26a.jpg

Damm those are tight. I’m really curious if my Hardin marine valve covers and stellengs are going to be an issue. What does mike recommend on checking lash. Your inside exhaust must be a real C…S…..

I only have 33 1/2” center to center but have a good 1 1/2” + clearance btwn the two.
pretty certain I can get the covers off with out touching the exhaust but…. I’ll probably only ck lash once a season. Maybe twice or if I’m down on power etc.

Dan KE doesn't even offer the spring "coolers" in the new design. Basically with the spring temps down because of the lower seat pressures and lower sustained rpm levels KE feels it is over kill. I know back when we ran Big Chief stuff at 7500 we always had spring oilers. Solid roller spring tech had big spring pressures back then as well. ??

I really feel the spring oilers help, after a few years on my tool room springs they lost very little spring pressure. I run over 225/575 spring pressures .
I believe the Merc. 850/1075 came stock with spring oilers. Id rather not eliminate them .

https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...teresting.html

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...006b2d4f0d.png

Thought I’d post my older cooling thread since you touched on the subject. I’m finally nearing this point myself and are some good posts here including yours.

https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...ent-temps.html

I’d categorize the spring coolers with pre-lubers. They certainly can’t hurt anything and only make sense especially in the Midwest boating region. Do they help prevent premature failure or extend bearing life? I’m not sure but just makes me feel good 😌! Plus very quick oil changes.

No need buy the expensive PL’s either. Just a DC pump (explosion proof), dash switch and a little plumbing. About 125.00 aside.

Spring oilers are definitely worth doing. I run an oil return line from the back of the head to the pan. They will also raise your oil temps, so make sure you have enough cooling. More frequent oil changes also. You will definitely see better spring life.

So did you see spring rate degradation then added spring oilers and it was less? When you say "spring oilers", you mean a bar or spacer fed with oil to shoot oil on the springs? I been following the lifter thread and this thread with great interest, I will add THIS, before Morel lifters had issues, I ran Morel lifters, good pushrods, Isky tool room springs with 190ish seat/490 open, .390/.380 lobe, TD shaft rockers with a .040 "spring oiler option" (was like a 20$ upgrade), no other "heroics", Bob M cam, boosted motor made over 1000 hp, was held at wot for 10+ minutes at a time at 6300, 12 to 14 lbs of boost and I set my "freshen/rebuild" interval at 100-120 hrs mainly when I started to see annual leakdown rates get past 30%. At that point my springs had decayed 5 lbs or so seat and maybe 10,15 lbs open. Now, at that time I replaced springs and lifters everytime, sold the other mint used parts for 35 to 50% of cost of new vs running them until they failed with FULL disclosure of their histroy. My oil temp ran 180 to 220 max. Ive since switched to Johnson lifters with their lowly .700 wheel and used them in quite a few other customers builds with no reported problems. I don't tell customers to attempt to run their blower motors for 300 or 400 hrs between freshen intervals, maybe Im overly cautious, maybe not. I think 55 mm cams, .904 lifters, jesel belt drives, dry sumps, solid lifters, etc are all "cool" upgrades BUT on these 6000, 6300 rpm motors is any of it really necessary. I HAVE used those things on 8000 rpm big blocks, Smitty