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Drilling out Arctic Cat helix bolts Help

Old 01-05-2022, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 1989mach1 View Post
Could you drill it out bigger and retap as a last resort
might have to do that. Worse case Iíll buy another but have some time so I thought Iíd ask. Tks. I have a shelf of old stuff an I do have a 48/40 but not sure thatís close.
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Old 01-05-2022, 07:18 PM
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Anybody mention welding ?
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Old 01-05-2022, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by getrdunn View Post
might have to do that. Worse case Iíll buy another but have some time so I thought Iíd ask. Tks. I have a shelf of old stuff an I do have a 48/40 but not sure thatís close.
So this damaged one is a 44/40? I see looks like a diamond drive helix, z1 turbo, firecat or f sled? a 48/40 might be a little tall unless your a really light rider or drag racing. BTW, the 10'/10.4" diamond drive clutches are rare AF right now, BDX hasnt been able to get there hands on one in 18 months so all new ones are gone from all shelves, used ones are few/far between and disappearing and newest thing is my one snowmobile parts wholesale supply DROPPED the BDX 10.4 clutch part number thats been showing back order, says BDX is dropping the part#, the Z1 turbos eat one of these about every 3500 miles when turned up!
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Old 01-06-2022, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by getrdunn View Post
Got a sled yesterday with a bad secondary. Got it home and figured out what was wrong. Got everything in good shape now other than extracting the three broken off bolts in the helix. Tried drill-press and with the small bit it just wants to bend the bit. Tried heat with a pick and thatís a no go also. Any ideas. Yeah I know I come across some fked up chit bit Tks in advance.

Getrdunn,

Take it a machine shop that has an EDM drill or a sinker/post EDM. They will burn those screws out with zero damage to the part, and they likely won't charge you much. Consider the cost of replacing what would appear to be an unobtainium part.

If you get into a bind, we can make arrangements for you to send it to me. I've got a shop around the corner of my building that has the EDM drill, and he would do it for me for nothing.

Thanks. Brad.
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Old 01-06-2022, 08:57 AM
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Soak with 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
Then drill center and use EZ out as mentioned.
The penetrating solution will help if there is any corrosion or thread locker helping hold the broken pieces in there.
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Old 01-06-2022, 10:04 AM
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It is a diamond drive helix off a Firecat. Iíll put the 48/40 on till I get the other one to a shop. Pretty sure the worn rollers put to much strain on it is what caused them to brake. Already replaced those. Pretty small bolts for the purpose. I did soak last night 50/50 and see this afternoon but so damm hard to get a hold of the bolts with anything. I think burning them out be the best solution. Never thought of that!
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Old 01-06-2022, 10:17 AM
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Has anyone mentioned welding ?
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Old 01-06-2022, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by getrdunn View Post
It is a diamond drive helix off a Firecat. Iíll put the 48/40 on till I get the other one to a shop. Pretty sure the worn rollers put to much strain on it is what caused them to brake. Already replaced those. Pretty small bolts for the purpose. I did soak last night 50/50 and see this afternoon but so damm hard to get a hold of the bolts with anything. I think burning them out be the best solution. Never thought of that!
Getrdunn,

I'm a toolmaker. EDM is my first go-to whenever I break a tap/drill/screw. Like I said, I have a couple options for resources on this front. Let me know if you hit a wall.

Something else to consider if this is a recurring issue for you... Nitric acid will dissolve steel while leaving the aluminum unscathed. Most lab supply companies sell it. A small QTY will last you quite a while and won't cost much. Just a thought.

Thanks. Brad.
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Old 01-06-2022, 01:08 PM
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Even though the bolts are below the surface, it is a very easy job to build them up with a mig welder and weld a nut to them to remove them.
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SB (01-06-2022)
Old 01-06-2022, 02:20 PM
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Just thinking out loud

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