Could you drill it out bigger and retap as a last resort

might have to do that. Worse case I’ll buy another but have some time so I thought I’d ask. Tks. I have a shelf of old stuff an I do have a 48/40 but not sure that’s close.

Anybody mention welding ?

So this damaged one is a 44/40? I see looks like a diamond drive helix, z1 turbo, firecat or f sled? a 48/40 might be a little tall unless your a really light rider or drag racing. BTW, the 10'/10.4" diamond drive clutches are rare AF right now, BDX hasnt been able to get there hands on one in 18 months so all new ones are gone from all shelves, used ones are few/far between and disappearing and newest thing is my one snowmobile parts wholesale supply DROPPED the BDX 10.4 clutch part number thats been showing back order, says BDX is dropping the part#, the Z1 turbos eat one of these about every 3500 miles when turned up!

Getrdunn,

Take it a machine shop that has an EDM drill or a sinker/post EDM. They will burn those screws out with zero damage to the part, and they likely won't charge you much. Consider the cost of replacing what would appear to be an unobtainium part.

If you get into a bind, we can make arrangements for you to send it to me. I've got a shop around the corner of my building that has the EDM drill, and he would do it for me for nothing.

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Soak with 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
Then drill center and use EZ out as mentioned.
The penetrating solution will help if there is any corrosion or thread locker helping hold the broken pieces in there.

It is a diamond drive helix off a Firecat. I’ll put the 48/40 on till I get the other one to a shop. Pretty sure the worn rollers put to much strain on it is what caused them to brake. Already replaced those. Pretty small bolts for the purpose. I did soak last night 50/50 and see this afternoon but so damm hard to get a hold of the bolts with anything. I think burning them out be the best solution. Never thought of that!

Has anyone mentioned welding ?

Getrdunn,

I'm a toolmaker. EDM is my first go-to whenever I break a tap/drill/screw. Like I said, I have a couple options for resources on this front. Let me know if you hit a wall.

Something else to consider if this is a recurring issue for you... Nitric acid will dissolve steel while leaving the aluminum unscathed. Most lab supply companies sell it. A small QTY will last you quite a while and won't cost much. Just a thought.

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Even though the bolts are below the surface, it is a very easy job to build them up with a mig welder and weld a nut to them to remove them.