Nose cone removal
 

When I bought my boat it already had nose cones on the bravo1 outdrives. The port drive always had an issue where the water was somehow getting between the putty and the casing causing the putty to soften and break off. I had it professionally fixed once. It did not last long. The nose cone must be off center a touch. So I started using marine tex to fill in the pieces of putty that had broke off at different areas. That worked for years until this year. Last week I noticed a large portion of putty missing off the outer side of the port drive. I was always told to get rid of the nose cones because they are slowing me down so I decided to remove the soften putty. After removing the putty I was down to where the nose cone sits on the drive. I didn't see any gaps where water can go between the drive and the cone. My question is: how do I remove these cones? Are they tack welded on or is it epoxy only? What is the best way of removing them without causing any drive damage?
thanks in advance

How they're put on is all dependent on who did it. If they're welded you should be able to see signs of the welding where the two meet. Must have been a really cheap epoxy if it's falling apart. So that's probably not what's holding them on.

I will take some photos of the cones today and post them here.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b5083b6bd9.jpg
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My water pickup is under the nose cone. As you can see the side water inlets have been filled in. If I can get these cones off I would like to re use the side intakes also. Can I carefully drill them open?

I'd say the epoxy is all that there. No welding is evident. Yes you can drill the side holes open. Possibly just use a 1/16" lunch and knock the epoxied out. Or whatever size punch matches the holes. I've never measured them.

Thanks for the info but how do do I get them off?
hammer and punch?

Good question. Maybe figure out what was making the epoxy soft.

Try an oscillating tool and cut along the flat areas before trying to knock it off. This will break some of the bond and minimize damage. Put blade flat against drive to cut under where the cone if that makes sense.

Maybe I should wait until after the season. I'll just marine tex that area again and wait for now. If taking them off could damage the drives that would end the season early.

It's hard to tell based on the photos, but probably car paint putty was used, which soaks up water and falls off. It is necessary to putty with epoxy putty.
If it is glued with epoxy, it is best to heat the joint and the epoxy will soften. Usually 60-80 oC is enough. If it is glued with MMA glue, it will also come soft when you heat it up.

What if I just keep running it like photo shows, will it fall off lol.

It might and probably take out the prop while doing it :(
If that's epoxy you can try soaking it in acetone to soften it up or paint stripper....then maybe take a thin chisel and start working your way under the lip of the cone peeling it back. I don't think there's any way to salvage the cone for re-use though if that was on your mind...
You can also try and cut the tip of the nose of the cone off and expose the pocket under there and fill that with acetone or paint stripper to get it going from both sides...

After thinking about the prop ?? that would be an expensive loss. I don't think it would actually fall off because the other side of the drive is solid nothing missing. Just say 50 mph pushing against the nose cone I cannot see it falling off there But maybe during a turn possibly.. I think I am going to add some more marine tex so I don't have any issues. Marine tex bonds very well fast. . It would be better to do this off the boat during the winter months

Mine started looking like yours and one day it was gone. No damage to prop so I always surmised it actually came off when I dropped it into reverse.....

To clarify though mine looked worse than yours by the time it came off

if you want to remove it you can try a torch. heat the nose cone and it will soften the bond. dont heat it till it melts but you can heat it a fair amount. we do that to take filler out of body panels all the time. when you heat it it lessen the bond of the nose cone to the epoxy so start at the edge and as you heat it work a putty knife under it and keep working it in. eventually it will free up

That sounds like the way I will do it at the end of the boating season. I have a acetylene turbo torch I use at work for brazing refrigerant pipes, of course I will have to watch how much heat I will apply. The worst case scenario is 2 used lower DWP bare cases.

Hope it works out for you.

Opening the water inlet holes, if they don't just punch out as suggested as a solution, a drill bit twisted with fingers is a great method for fine work.

You'd be surprised and most would shy away but if they aren't weld in place the filler is the weak point. You can bash the cones with a steel hammer and it will start to fracture the filler. In the end your going to be doing some paint work anyway... You can also carefully cut through a little of the cone and then use a chisel if it's being really stubborn. Trim the drive down onto some wood blocks to make it rigid.. and then remember the last time the wife said no to an upgrade and start swinging. Towards the front of the nose cone not at the seam.... Usually less than 10 good hard wacks and you'll see the filler start to crack....

For now I added some marine tex along the seam so I can finish the boating season. On the side water pickups , is it possible someone filled that whole complete section with putty.. seems a bit on the hard side. A drill bit by hand did nothing., I guess I can use a drill with a very small bit??

If you keep them on for the next 6-8weeks of season, I think you would be able to focus better with a proper solution, and not be pressured to cut corners to keep it seaworthy.

https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...er-intake.html

Interesting perspective about drilling new holes. Merc suggests 4 vs 8. So maybe reviewing the whole plan of water inlet...maybe there is a better location to have them.

If you want to drill out the original locations, make sure you drill at the correct angle. Account for the shape of the inlet holes.

I would use smallest drill bits strong enough to do the job without breaking.

Try a sharp pointy center punch to align the drill bit.

Increase drill bit size until you've reached your desired hole size.
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Don't discount a little Dremel type tool with a small round burr to open up the angled inlet portion for the holes.

Saw this link as well. Good layout photo at the end.

https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...o-1-drive.html

The main reason why I wanted to re open the side water holes is when it's low tide having the only one water pickup in the nose of the drive can create overheating issues from debris and muddy water.It doesnt happen often but it has happened occasionally even with the drives almost on trailer position. I think having side pickups also could help that situation .

Took the boat out this weekend. No issues with nose cone. Marine Tex held it on.

Update
 

At 75mph marine tex started to come off. I think the water entering the inlet of the nose cone for cooling is somehow is getting between the inlet and the putty holding the nose cone on even though I cannot see an area exacty where though.its towards the low part mid section of pics posted previously. Starboard drive putty cracked on the side....here we go.

Torch those off as suggested, DA the drives smooth and spray them.
I'd imagine torching those off would be a 30 or so minute affair.

Got one cone off. Looks like it was never a lwp there. Looks like they created it. Now what?
the side water inlets has screw in brass plugs.but some are stripped.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2627006880.jpg
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cd3a6f619a.jpg

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Wow. Honestly, at this point I'm looking for new lower cases or complete lowers.

Heck, worth the price just to get new cases - https://www.sterndrivereplacement.co.../lower-unit-4/

I was told to cut the tube flush with the drive. Plug it up with marine tex. Then remove all water inlet side plugs from drive sand paint and your good to go. A lot cheaper than new drive lowers. I think those were SEI?? if not mistaken, A OEM Mercruiser drive lower will not cost only $1199.00 I have heard good and bad about SEI. Why are the so inexpensive?

With some heat on the allen plugs, you may get a few out by the threads. Otherwise drill them out.

...no wonder you never got anywhere with little drill bit by hand.
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Great progress so far.

Thanks My First Time LOL...As for the tube in the front. cut it flush. then crimp it and seal it?

Before doing anything with the tube...I would open up the original water inlets. There are some good threads on the newer style and hole size/placement.

That way you can use the tube to flush out any metal filings etc from your work.

Large front tube...if it was me, I would likely clean it up the aluminum and weld it back up using a piece to cover the hole.

Without the equipment and costs, and not seeing it first hand. It's difficult to suggest a solution. Assuming the tube is aluminum? Or something like that?

Trying to get enough material (epoxy style JB Weld) in behind the opening to resist the hydro forces may block the water inlet flow in the hollow passage.

I believe it is aluminum. I will have to do crimp it cut it down and use marine tex. I will mold it contour with that part of the drive.I do not have anything to weld aluminum.

Can you explain this? Trying to get enough material (epoxy style JB Weld) in behind the opening to resist the hydro forces may block the water inlet flow in the hollow passage.[/QUOTE]
I will not be using that water port anymore.. I will being opening all the holes on the sides of the drive where the original water inlets were.

I will not be using that water port anymore.. I will being opening all the holes on the sides of the drive where the original water inlets were.[/QUOTE]

How far in does the tube go before it opens up into the water gallery? (The water passage inside the drive that feeds the impeller.)

Trying to plug the pipe after cuttting it flush at the taper, you may get some JB weld or whater you use out of the pipe inside and block the water flow from the newly opened water inlet. For that matter, the pipe itself may be a flow obstruction.

How far in does the tube go before it opens up into the water gallery? (The water passage inside the drive that feeds the impeller.)

Trying to plug the pipe after cuttting it flush at the taper, you may get some JB weld or whater you use out of the pipe inside and block the water flow from the newly opened water inlet. For that matter, the pipe itself may be a flow obstruction.[/QUOTE]
I have no idea how far that tube goes in. Its sticks out about an inch. How big is the water passage in the drive. Should I remove the pipe completely? then what? How do I seal up the drive. I should have left the nose cone on. Lesson learned again.. Anyone have a bare case. The other nose cone is staying on for now.

Heres an idea. Lets put it back on. What do you recommend to use
metal to metal ?? Filler
or?

I appreciate you want a solution that keeps you on the water until you can focus on it with some breathing room.
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You need to have something to keep the filler in the tube from getting pushed in.

The inside of the tube could be dremel'd up in circles inside, creating a locking ring.

If you cut down the tube on the angle, and cut it a bit deeper than the drove angled surface, the JB weld would have something to hold on to outside the tube. It would also feather out once sanded.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c9b70f2f3.jpeg

Is the vertical gallery in front of the main shaft for the water? The 8 side holes would line up with that.

Hard to find cutaway photos of the Bravo 1.

I ran an SEI lower for a couple seasons with about 600 HP. Ended up losing the upper and lower still looked great at tear down.

the easiest way out is to clean up the nose cone and put it back on for now. Before I do that maybe I should remove the brass plugs first. I unscrewed one plug and there was water in there.Then hook a water hose to my engine flushes and see how much water comes out of the sides of the drives. I can also temporarily cap the pipe with a rubber cap for testing only.
Another idea. I open all holes up and the cut the nose cone where the pipe goes into. Have a shop weld the other side of the piece cut and use this as a cap for the drive.This way the hydro forces cannot push anything back in.
I could also plug the tube with some kind of threaded pipe plug them marine tex it or flare out the pipe if it's aluminum so it grabs onto the drive. This will hold it in place.