Lifter making noise
09-25-2023, 12:58 PM
#51
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I would NOT adjust it being that loose and go out on the water, caught in time may mean difference between a teardown, new cam and lifter, clean and inspect engine vs all kinds of damage, lifter bore destroyed, etc
09-25-2023, 01:27 PM
#52
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For Gen VI engines, what about factory GM? Their performance lifter is a tall body, p/n 17120060, and supports the camshaft in the 572/620hp (.623 lift - 254/264 @ 050). I would imagine that it would be more than capable for most of what people here would use. I haven't heard too many people complaining about them either.
This would be useful for those that have factory roller blocks. I was going to go that route but ended up with a nice set of Crane lifters.
This would be useful for those that have factory roller blocks. I was going to go that route but ended up with a nice set of Crane lifters.
I don't intend to run past 5800-6000. Short stints at that. Duration in the upper 22Xs at most, and Exh maybe a tad more. Upper 0.5XX lift. 1.8 int -1.7 ex.
Seems Comp Products went South after Crane pulled pin? Is that just a coincidence? Seems odd there is so much gaslighting going on on performance products. Certainly with flat tappet cams, and now lifters as well.
The Cummins solid flat lifters seem to work well and reliable...as a mushroom style with big diameter contact surface.
BAM lifters...seems they only have solids.
What are the benefits of running wider lifters for marine?
09-25-2023, 02:19 PM
#53
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so I gotta imagine IF you tighten that nut down until preload is correct IF you repeat the straight edge test that nut bwill be .100+ low. since roller lifters dont really "wear" it leads you to it having a stuck pluger or a failing lobe and lifter wheel. Let us know
I would NOT adjust it being that loose and go out on the water, caught in time may mean difference between a teardown, new cam and lifter, clean and inspect engine vs all kinds of damage, lifter bore destroyed, etc
I would NOT adjust it being that loose and go out on the water, caught in time may mean difference between a teardown, new cam and lifter, clean and inspect engine vs all kinds of damage, lifter bore destroyed, etc
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articfriends (09-27-2023)
09-25-2023, 03:51 PM
#54
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Yup. Even with my limited knowledge of this stuff I believe something has failed. I really hope the cam is not wiped out. Ill pull the intake this weekend and report what i find. Thanks guys for the help.
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articfriends (09-27-2023), sutphen 30 (09-25-2023)
09-25-2023, 04:21 PM
#55
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The cost of machining a block to accept .904 lifters isn`t bad . The lfiters a bit more expensive but they are quite a bit beefier than a .842, thats the route I went .
https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads...fters.1809794/
my old comp craps on the left ,Morels on the right.
so far so good.
https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads...fters.1809794/
my old comp craps on the left ,Morels on the right.
so far so good.
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articfriends (03-03-2024)
09-25-2023, 04:47 PM
#56
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Just make sure you didn't do this:
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09-25-2023, 05:43 PM
#57
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Thread Starter
09-26-2023, 11:39 AM
#59
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09-26-2023, 03:33 PM
#60
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Seems to me like a bad plunger. You should be able to replace the pair of lifters and go from there.
Setting the preload is lifter-specific and I would not deviate from Comp’s instructions. The 854-16 requires a 1/2-turn of preload (.025).
Once you’ve narrowed it down to just the lifter, purchase another pair. Pull your bad lifter pair and return to Comp for a replacement (to keep on-hand). Replace the bad pair with the one you just bought.
They’re warrantied for one year to the day of purchase so unless you’re beyond that, I’d make a Comp give you another pair.
You could go about changing out all of the lifters for another brand, but personally, I wouldn’t. You’d need to measure for new pushrods, etc. plus the really high cost of the lifters. You probably just have a bad apple in there, and since it seems preload may be a variable, might best to correct what you have and move on.
That’s my thought anyway.
Setting the preload is lifter-specific and I would not deviate from Comp’s instructions. The 854-16 requires a 1/2-turn of preload (.025).
Once you’ve narrowed it down to just the lifter, purchase another pair. Pull your bad lifter pair and return to Comp for a replacement (to keep on-hand). Replace the bad pair with the one you just bought.
They’re warrantied for one year to the day of purchase so unless you’re beyond that, I’d make a Comp give you another pair.
You could go about changing out all of the lifters for another brand, but personally, I wouldn’t. You’d need to measure for new pushrods, etc. plus the really high cost of the lifters. You probably just have a bad apple in there, and since it seems preload may be a variable, might best to correct what you have and move on.
That’s my thought anyway.
