Fuel pump needs that extra time to prime. Have you replaced fuel lines and filter?

I'm pretty sure I've had the filter replaced before but never any lines. This is my 3rd pump. Could be they are being overworked?

The pump keeps burning up because there is a restriction somewhere and the pump has to work to hard. Do you have a return fuel line?
I think the filter may be built into the pump, you may have fuel lines corroding from the inside and plugging the system up.

Frequently running low on fuel is hard on them also.

While researching as of recent I ran across a post on a form that stated he had issues with the aftermarket pumps wearing out quickly.

ive tried the key on and off several different ways. I would replace cam sensor but not after hearing it tried and start on ether.

Heading down to confirm voltage at injectors. Seems like I recall seeing a gray (?) wire going to each injector and likely be the common hot.

I pulled and cked all related fuses so if there’s not any voltage at the injectors what be the culprit? Kinda hoping I don’t actually.

Again parked it and sat for 9 mo. I was running a little on the rough side when I parked however I just figured it was time for tune. It’s got like 250k on it.

Injector 12 volt wires should be pink, most switched 12 volt wires on the red/blue pcm engines are pink.

Tk u - also are they hot when key switch is on or in crank mode? Not sure how the safety etc works with injectors?

Which raises another possibility… maybe?

My dash security light blinks when I get in the truck however changes a a battery pic when key is on. I did a lock and unlock with the door key and put back in ignition thinking it resets but not sure.

I recall all that (dash) looking the same from the past but thought I’d raise the question anyway.

I believe injectors have 12 volts with key on, not positive though.
With security light flashing it may for whatever reason think it's getting hot wired and VATS is kicking on and not allowing it to start. Can't say I have heard of that being an issue in a stock application though, only when engine is swapped into something else with a stand alone harness

Cant say on your exact model but from my past experience doing remote starts in the late 90's when the VATS is working the engine will start up but then kill....so if you are getting nothing at all but it does try start up on the either, then id be looking at fuel delivery...injectors or pump...not the VATS
I asked a guy here at work that runs a repair bus out of his house on the side...he said the fuel psi for that should be 60psi +/- 5
But that was off the top of his head...id get a manual for the truck and look it up

60 PSI Seems to high for a stock 6.0 to me. I do know that when I swapped a 5.3 into my jeep, it would not fire at all until I deleted the VATS.

please post when you figure it out. I hope its something....... inexpensive