Trim Pump Not working
#1
Thread Starter
VIP Member

Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 3,459
Likes: 2,089
From: SW Ohio
Guys,
So, we put the boat away for what turned out to be the last time in late September, and it has sat in my shop, where we store it, since. Not knowing it would be the last time, I didn't put the batteries on charge or drop the outdrive. I came in yesterday morning and had decided it was time. Crawled up into the boat, lifted the hatch, put the batteries on charge (they were fine) and hit the DOWN trim button, only to hear a click but no trim pump. Click, click, click. Nothing. Since the drive is all the way up, the UP button does nothing, but the "Trailer" button does the click thing too, with no pump. Everything was in order when we put it on the trailer last. I may or may not be able to do whatever needs done myself, or I may have to take it to Hilltop come springtime. I'll make that decision upon assessment.
All stock Merc stuff, Bravo1. So where do I start?
Thanks. Brad.
So, we put the boat away for what turned out to be the last time in late September, and it has sat in my shop, where we store it, since. Not knowing it would be the last time, I didn't put the batteries on charge or drop the outdrive. I came in yesterday morning and had decided it was time. Crawled up into the boat, lifted the hatch, put the batteries on charge (they were fine) and hit the DOWN trim button, only to hear a click but no trim pump. Click, click, click. Nothing. Since the drive is all the way up, the UP button does nothing, but the "Trailer" button does the click thing too, with no pump. Everything was in order when we put it on the trailer last. I may or may not be able to do whatever needs done myself, or I may have to take it to Hilltop come springtime. I'll make that decision upon assessment.
All stock Merc stuff, Bravo1. So where do I start?
Thanks. Brad.
#2
Probably a solenoid. Jump the red battery wire that goes to the dist block on the pump assy to either the green/white wire or the Blue/white wire and it should activate the motor directly to get you down....
If you want to verify then you can test the output of the solenoid with a multi meter....just put the lead on that same green or blue wire and hit the dash switch...if you get an output then solenoid is good and its probably the motor....(assuming the ground connection of the omtor is good
)
If you want to verify then you can test the output of the solenoid with a multi meter....just put the lead on that same green or blue wire and hit the dash switch...if you get an output then solenoid is good and its probably the motor....(assuming the ground connection of the omtor is good
)
__________________
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#3
Registered

Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,296
Likes: 1,804
From: Merritt Island, FL
What Wally said, those are really nothing more than old Ford style solenoids. I had one go out on Fridays Toy run, changed it before the run Saturday.
They make them a lot cheaper now, last time I had my motors out I thought I should change all 8 as a preventive since it is so much easier sitting on the bench.
First run out 5 of the 8 failed,,,,,,,,,,,
They make them a lot cheaper now, last time I had my motors out I thought I should change all 8 as a preventive since it is so much easier sitting on the bench.
First run out 5 of the 8 failed,,,,,,,,,,,
#4
Thread Starter
VIP Member

Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 3,459
Likes: 2,089
From: SW Ohio
Probably a solenoid. Jump the red battery wire that goes to the dist block on the pump assy to either the green/white wire or the Blue/white wire and it should activate the motor directly to get you down....
If you want to verify then you can test the output of the solenoid with a multi meter....just put the lead on that same green or blue wire and hit the dash switch...if you get an output then solenoid is good and its probably the motor....(assuming the ground connection of the omtor is good
)
If you want to verify then you can test the output of the solenoid with a multi meter....just put the lead on that same green or blue wire and hit the dash switch...if you get an output then solenoid is good and its probably the motor....(assuming the ground connection of the omtor is good
)What Wally said, those are really nothing more than old Ford style solenoids. I had one go out on Fridays Toy run, changed it before the run Saturday.
They make them a lot cheaper now, last time I had my motors out I thought I should change all 8 as a preventive since it is so much easier sitting on the bench.
First run out 5 of the 8 failed,,,,,,,,,,,
They make them a lot cheaper now, last time I had my motors out I thought I should change all 8 as a preventive since it is so much easier sitting on the bench.
First run out 5 of the 8 failed,,,,,,,,,,,

I'll crawn back up in there and see what I find.
Thanks. Brad.
#7
#9
As long as you verify it’s the solenoid that has failed, replace both of them. It’s only 3 additional nuts to remove.
If one has died, the other probably isn’t far behind. I always kept 2 on board as well.
If one has died, the other probably isn’t far behind. I always kept 2 on board as well.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 12-13-2023 at 10:01 PM.
#10
Registered

Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 864
Likes: 250
From: Portland, OR
My old 32 Fountain stuff would intermittently not trim up or down. One of them just had some corrosion on the solenoid connectors and the other had a failing solenoid. I could whack it with a screwdriver handle or something and it would work...until it didn't. Cleaned the connections on the one, replaced the other worked that way until I sold it. Worth checking the connections if you don't want to throw parts at it.




