Dash Panel Material
#33
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From: SW Ohio
Mine is similar. I don't think anybody's been back there fiddling with anything, but there are a farq ton of wires. I'm hoping to just go through a process of disconnecting a wire, reroute it around the panel, then reconnect it to the gage, switch or light, one at a time. I'm hoping the entire dash can be removed via disconnecting the cluster connectors and allow me to do all this at a desk or bench.
Thanks. Brad.
#34
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From: SW Ohio
Ah.... So, it's a little piezo tweeter. Got it.
Yeah... I'm not gonna label all those wires. I'll figure something else out first. Or not.
Thanks. Brad.
#35

Brad, its not that bad, It just looks intimidating because of the amount of wiring, but in all reality you have many duplicates like the reds (power) Blacks(ground) and purple(ign) blue (lights) the rest are the actual sending unit wires for the gauges. You can take some zip ties and bundle the groups together as you disconnect the gauges and just use some painters tape to label what gauges that bundle is from. here's a list of the "standard" wires you would find.....there are more if you do searches but these should cover most of them in the dash part anyway. The switches are different...you will have a red wire for the main power feed....then there will be the feed wire to the device its turning on and that may be any color the installer wants in some cases but 90% of the time its also a red wire. You may also have a black wire for a ground if the switch lights up when turned on.
Dont be intimidated by the mess...just take you time and go systematically one by one and you'll be fine. A good test light or meter also helps.

It could be worse....you could have a "friend" try and help you by taking everything apart before you get there and not label anything!

Some before and after i was done a few hours later.





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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#36
That was my 311 last year - so much butchering done by someone you'd think wouldn't (not naming the shop but will say that I was really surprised). I made a schematic, labeled everything similar to how Dan did his, and got it all back together pretty easily once all the crap was cut out.
#39
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From: SW Ohio
I completely understand the appeal, but I'm keeping my Livorsi gauges. Just too much work and expense for me to justify the conversion. Yours looks sweet, though.
How is the glare on that glossy finish? I would think it would be a nightmare when the sun is coming from the wrong direction. I'm doing mine in matte white for this very reason.
Thanks. Brad.
#40
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Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Bradenton, Fl.
Dave,
I completely understand the appeal, but I'm keeping my Livorsi gauges. Just too much work and expense for me to justify the conversion. Yours looks sweet, though.
How is the glare on that glossy finish? I would think it would be a nightmare when the sun is coming from the wrong direction. I'm doing mine in matte white for this very reason.
Thanks. Brad.
I completely understand the appeal, but I'm keeping my Livorsi gauges. Just too much work and expense for me to justify the conversion. Yours looks sweet, though.
How is the glare on that glossy finish? I would think it would be a nightmare when the sun is coming from the wrong direction. I'm doing mine in matte white for this very reason.
Thanks. Brad.

correctly and we're all off. This is after sending the gauges back four times to get the issue resolved which wasn't. Then one of the needles that they replaced falls off. There's so much more to the story but I won't get into it here.
The glossy finish of the new dash is no problem. The dash looked the same way with the livorsi gauges. Have not noticed any glare off the flat screen either. Very bright display.
The old wiring harness and the Garmin took me 2 days.










