And a shame on and FU to quick fuel and holley. Wtf people ? Twice the $$$ over last 1/2 dozen years and make it junk ? Not cool.

I meant to attach this sheet I received from Holley. Just FYI

What a cheap out move on Holley/QFT’s part. They know this is a problem but have not addressed.

And their tech guys are clueless to boot.

Rob, glad I could help you get her figured out!

Like I mentioned in our conversation a while back, I have yet to see a QF holley that wasnt a hot mess, the last one I tuned for a boat engine needed IFRS drilled larger, jet feeds reamed, transfer slots doubled in length, other passages pin gauged and adjusted, work on their stupid emulsion garbage, extra emulsion holes added where holley usually has them when they don't have bleeds, base plate needed circuit work, PVCR enlarged, different IAB, had .028 hs bleeds from holley because they needed to bandaided the main jet signal because fuel passages weren't conducive to flow and signal sucked, got rid of the J hooks because they put vacuum on bowl and disrupt fuel to main jets, added the offroad truck crossover vent tube, the sets screws in rear plate that fill the passage holes for when they drill it for fuel were loose and falling out, the throttle stop had bigger threads then the set screw so it was falling out and needed fixed then epoxied, the arm that opens the secondarys needed tweaked because once stop was actually correct, blades werent square. These are just the things off top of my head, there were others. ITS main issue was it was blow up lean at 15 to 17-1 at part throttle and too rich at wot, the circuits needed serious work because just adding MORE jet to get part throttle killed the afrs at wot and it transitioned terrible. Ran perfect once all that was done and i dialed it in on dyno then boat in no time fwiw, Smitty
OH yeah, this was brand new out of box carb too. Once all this was done, I was able to go down 8 to 10 jets sizes and afrs were on target at part throttle and wot, transition was good, idle was good.

I can concur with this mess via the research I did to fix my Demons (not really Demons at this point). I’m not sure how QFT/Holley is getting away with this garbage, but they sure are and they sell a lot of them! Similar stories are coming from the other specialty carb shops, too.

One thing that stands out… the guys that really know how to fix these contraptions just about always suggest going back to the tried and true Holley 3310’s metering. This will get you much closer on a marine carburetor (for cars it’s a miraculous fix).

Looking back at my dyno notes, this carb I was describing did NOT have J hooks, the holley "truck" tube vent kit though richened it at least equivilant to 3-4 jet sizes from regular vents. Removing the j hooks and going to regular tubes also richens them when you get rid of whatever evil thing the vacuum on bowl assembly from them does.

I chucked the J-tubes.

Sorry to side track, what's a good carb to buy in the 800-850 CFM range? Thanks

Believe it or not, i’ve never done this. How do you guys pull them out ?

You can stick a large screw driver thru the J and twist back and forth or use good vise grips and a hammer.. By time there out, they are NOT reusable BTW.